When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  For arguments sake - you
could make the Radiator the highest point by bleeding the system on
jackstands as high as you can safely get the front of the jeep.

Peter

On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Brian Toscano <brian.tosc...@gmail.com>wrote:

> Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
> the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
> but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
> more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
> air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
> water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
> thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
> expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
> since filled it up to the Full mark.
>
> Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
> been purged from the pressurized part of the system?
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing <phertz...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were
> talking
> > about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system
> to
> > bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of
> the
> > engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
> > properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
> > that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
> > you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
> > it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
> > system.
> >
> > Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
> > internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.
> >
> > Peter
> > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
> > >
> > > --
> > > John W Reames
> > > jream...@verizon.net
> > > Home: +14106646986
> > > Mobile: +14437915905
> > >
> > > On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano <brian.tosc...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has
> the
> > > > spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to
> be
> > > the
> > > > way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
> > > rusting -
> > > > it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't
> > try
> > > > to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
> > > changing
> > > > the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the
> spring
> > I
> > > > could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse
> > water
> > > > through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be
> perfectly
> > > > clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both
> > are
> > > > cast iron.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
> > > > richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Maybe those springs?
> > > >>
> > > >> --R
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the
> radiator.
> > > >>> What
> > > >>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns
> rusty
> > > >>> brown,
> > > >>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.
>  Likewise,
> > > what
> > > >>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I
> poured
> > > clean
> > > >>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
> > > >>> removed
> > > >>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> > > engine
> > > >>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> > > rust-free.
> > > >>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
> > the
> > > top
> > > >>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply
> and
> > > >>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
> > > radiator
> > > >>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that
> > spring
> > > >>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
> > > from if
> > > >>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano<brian.toscano@gmail.
> > > **com<brian.tosc...@gmail.com>
> > > >>>> wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.
> >  The
> > > >>>> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant
> > tester.
> > > >>>> However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original
> > problem
> > > >>>> has
> > > >>>> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not
> > expecting
> > > >>>> 100%
> > > >>>> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
> > > block
> > > >>>> and head.
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max<meadedil...@bellsouth.net>
> > >  wrote:
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank
> to
> > > >>>>> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a
> > dark
> > > >>>>> radiator.
> > > >>>>>
> > > >>>>> Did you fix the original problem?
> > > >>>>>
> > > >>>>> I think your flushing method failed.
> > > >>>>> --
> > > >>>>> Max Dillon
> > > >>>>> Charleston SC
> > > >>>>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> > > >>>>> _______________________
> > > >>>>>
> > > >>>>> ______________________________**_________
> > > >>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> > > >>>>>
> > > >>>>>
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