I have used mixtures up to 100% sunflower bioD in OM603s with no ill effects. Actually, they seem quite happy with properly made BioD. No modifications. It was properly made with the methanol removed and reclaimed properly.

Trying to run used soy oil is another matter entirely.


Yeah, I just got to the Star mag for September. W124 buying guide points out that VO and possibly BioD are not tolerated by the engine. I attributed it to the fuel and have backed off using it as I would have in a much older car. The oil article in that edition also pointed up just how less tight tolerances were in older engines than they are now. All the "advances" in the past forty years have gotten much more mileage out of the fuel, but at the expense of hardiness and tolerance for lesser quality lubrication and fuel one will find while on the road.

clay


On Nov 10, 2012, at 3:24 PM, ernest breakfield wrote:

 hi Clay!

    thanks for the detailed feedback!

so, it seems the differences in our experiences could be related to either the cars, *or* the fuel. all of the problems you describe were related to fuel eating rubber and/or the byproducts of that not being filtered out of the fuel (not BioD itself destroying Injectors, Pumps, and fuel tanks as i first read you to say).

the fuel i've been using has been sourced almost exclusively through Yokao or Blue Sky/Sirona Biofuels (both in NorCal), though i'm aware of at least a few loads that came in from a producer in/around Reno.

i'd always been attracted to the lines of both a 220D of yours' vintage and to the later more 'modern' cars, but your experiences seem to reinforce why W123s that are so popular around here for BioFuels, and that sticking to one for use with BioDiesel might be a wise choice.

whatever the reason (or combinations of reasons), i'm sorry you've had such poor luck. having run well over 80,000 miles on almost exclusively B99 in our '85, we haven't had a fraction of the issues you report.


 cheers!
 e


 On 04/Nov/12 21:17, clay monroe wrote:
Gump was the 72 220D. She died a noble death when metal fatigue took out the cam supports

220D was given fresh fuel return lines within two weeks of purchase. These failed within 14 months with B100 use. Daily driver, so much fuel went through them. Fuel lines from the fuel tank as well as the 90* lines up front failed during that time. Second installation of return lines which lasted another 25 months. Cigar hose went smushy, as well as taking out the fuel filter gaskets. Return lines dissolved and sent snot into injectors. I had those rebuilt. Toward the end of the life of the second return lines I stopped using higher than B20. Four years into my ownership, after I had stopped using so much B100, I had to do DV, since they were spewing fuel. IP was being overloaded with BioD, so I had to change out IP oil twice as often as I did engine oil.

E300D was sourced in 2003. She had been given fresh return lines, DV seals, 5k miles prior to my purchase. Was running B100 in her during the same period as the 220D. SWMBA was the primary driver. This was the heyday of the B100 Mania in town. Most of the stuff was coming in from the midwest and going to indy as well as big oil locations. Local large producers were just getting plants built. Oregon firms were pumping stuff they made. SWMBA has family down that way, so we filled up when there.

Had her a year or so before rubber started to fail. Spent the summer touring Mid-Atlantic and SE states, so not filling with anything but #2 for three months, then went back to high BioD in the fall. Returns and fuel lines began leaking, which made a stink in the cabin. SWMBA did not enjoy this, so the car went to the shop for fresh fuel bits.

New rubber lines all over and all was well for another year. Fuel filter seals fail, return lines perforated, and fuel is leaking into the injector wells and filling to the point it ate the valve cover gasket. Sloshing fuel also ate the fuel filler gasket. Trunk and engine bay stink of fuel, as well as polluting the cabin. More shop time to replace that mess.
 >>
Within six month, the DV seals fail. SWMBA no longer purchases BioD, and forbids me to purchase it for that car. All the damage and issues from using BioD sour her on the E300D, so she decides to purchase a korean car. When the 220D dies, I end up using the ED and in the past three years have not had any issues related to fuel or rubber.

 clay

 On Nov 4, 2012, at 7:53 PM, ernest breakfield wrote:

 hi Clay!

i've no idea what a Gump is,... but would be curious to hear a breakdown of which of those failures you had on which model.

the large majority of BioD users here in the Berkeley fleet is running 616s and 617s because they have a reputation for handling Biofuels so well; i'm wondering if this might be an example of how well-deserved that reputation is.


 cheers!
 e

 On 31/Oct/12 20:28, clay monroe wrote:
I am happy you have had such success. I have not had that experience myself, so have made recommendation based on the repairs I have made myself or paid to have done. The hoses I replaces where not old, but new viton from the dealership I bought by the meter. Other rubber parts were either dealer or Rusty parts. I also received feedback from two local BioD resellers on issues related to the use of B100 and from Chris Goodwin, who runs Frybrid.com and worked on the cars to fix the issues related to B100 usage.

BTW, I have been using BioD for a decade myself. Once I reduced the amount of BioD in the tank, my issues no longer plagued me. The stuff is not small scale production, but from major producers from both the midwest as well as Imperium, Sustainable, Propel, and other larger local refiners. Must be the #2 that caused my issues

 clay


 On Oct 30, 2012, at 9:11 PM, ernest breakfield wrote:

 Clay,

i don't know where you got this from, but these "concerns" range from grossly exaggerated to simply untrue.

i've got over 80K miles on almost exclusively straight BioD in my W123 over the last 8 years or so, and i'm one of only thousands here in the Bay Area alone that have done so without problem. i didn't replace any fuel lines; decided i'd wait to see how much truth there might be behind the alleged need for it, since it wasn't like fuel line failures are sudden or catastrophic and i would be watching fuel lines in any old diesel vehicle anyway. when the Return Lines *finally* began to show just the tiniest hint of seepage this year, i finally replaced them; all the rest of the lines look good, and i have no idea how old any of them were when i first got the car with ~120K on it.

i don't know what's allegedly supposed to happen to the IP or the injectors, but i haven't seen or heard of it happening to any of the BioD MBZs in the BioD fleet here yet. one of the reasons the MBZs are so popular for this sort of stuff is specifically because the inline IPs are so robust. to the contrary, some people claim that the lubricity of BioD is *easier* on the injection parts than #2.

i have no idea what BioD could do to a metal fuel tank, and have never before heard of any issue or concern related to such.

the one thing i do see yield to BioD is the insulating ring around the filler pipe; i've replaced the one in our car twice in the last 8 years. (it's not like that's a big deal; it's just ugly.)

as for it running "just as quiet at B2 as with more", i don't have great hearing, but i'd have to differ there too,.. but that's not why i'm running it.


 cheers!
 e

 '85 300D
 200K+ miles (80K+ on B99)


 On 30/Oct/12 16:48, clay monroe wrote:
Do not run B100. It will eat your rubber parts and destroy your pocketbook. IP DV seals, injectors, fuel tank and hoses. B20 is the strongest I would advise. Much over B5 does not increase the benefit to the engine or cleaning up gunk. Put a gallon in your tank from a 5 gallon container when you fill up.

B5 also gives you the mileage you expect while increasing cetane. Not enough BTU in higher concentrations to improve power or MPG. It runs just as quiet at B2 as with more. You could run veggie oil for the same impact on cetane and smoothness
 >>>>>>
 clay
 [snip]

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