That sure sounds painless! My fuel pump is a diaphragm type so
hopefully it will work fine. I am recovering from knee surgery so
getting down and getting back up are pretty difficult for me at this
point but your method is so simple I can probably supervise my wife and son!
I mentioned using your method on my MGB's clutch system - I plan to
share your method with the MGB forum I'm on as there's huge frustration
when trying to bleed the clutch because the bleeder is on the bottom of
the slave cylinder and pointed downward making bleeding extremely
difficult. I suspect there are clutch systems that never get bled
completely.
Take care --
Larry
On 4/26/2013 2:22 AM, G Mann wrote:
Larry,
One cheapie pump I have is a diaphragm type pump.. one is a gear type. Both
work for oil removal. The gear type is slightly higher volume, but a bit
harder to get primed.. so it runs longer before sucking oil. No filter,
they are "trash pumps" dedicated to oil removal.
You will be spoiled doing the "one man and a pump from the bottom" brake /
clutch bleed system. I just did a large truck and pumped brake fluid from
the rear wheels 14 ft to the brake master cylinder... it was painless.
First I sucked the old tired brake fluid out, then reversed the pump and
pumped fresh in.. all from the bleed screws.. by myself. Took 15 minutes
total... "sweet".
Grant...
On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 3:29 PM, Larry T <l02tur...@comcast.net> wrote:
Grant,
Thanks! I happen to have a couple of extra fuel pumps -- it sounds
like you pumped the oil through the pump just like it was fuel, which
avoids the use of a vacuum vessel and its added complication? If so, did
you filter it before going through the pump? I guess there's no reason for
it to cause a problem by going thru the pump - just curious about the
details ...
Also, thanks for the great explanation of the Brake Bleeding System
also - will definitely use it on the hydraulic clutch system on my MGB -
they are notorious for being difficult to bleed because of the location of
the bleed valve on the slave cylinder - your method will make its position
not matter as the fluid will push through the slave taking air bubbles with
it...
LarryT
On 4/20/2013 8:29 PM, G Mann wrote:
Why all the fuss? I've been using a cheap [$25 off the internet] fuel
pump
for so long I can't remember exactly when I got it. A trip to the hardware
store for barb fittings , fuel hose,[in and out] a piece of semi-rigid
nylon tubing with a 30 degree angle cut on the bottom end [so it doesn't
suck flat to the bottom of the oil pan] and a scrap [almost] plastic 5
gallon fuel jerry can.
I insert the suck tube down the dip stick hole, put the pump output tube
in
the 5 gal jerry can, hook the fuel pump up to the battery [I did wire in
an
on/off switch just for convenience, and alligator clips to the ends of the
wires], flip the switch on and let the pump do the work.
I started using this rig for a generator which was mounted in a no access
position, found it was so handy I now use it for other oil changes. The
pump does 3 gallons of oil in 15 minutes and the battery has plenty of
reserve to handle that. [Never tried it in freezing cold with frozen oil..
so, warm the engine, I suppose]
In fact, that works so well, I just bought another one and use it to bleed
brakes. Use clear poly hose, hook pump to bleed screw, open bleed screw,
open master cylinder cap, turn on pump and suck the old dead brake fluid
out of the master cylinder and line. A soft drink 2 liter bottle works for
receptacle for the old fluid, Just pump it right in.
Once the master cylinder is empty, [and clean to your satisfaction]
reverse
the direction of the pump [put the intake side hose in a fresh bottle of
clean fluid and hook the output side hose to the brake bleed nipple, open
the nipple, turn on the pump and push clean brake fluid from the bottom up
to the master cylinder. [leave the cap lightly on in case it squirts out
{some do that} ].... Once you have enough fluid in the master cylinder to
cover the bottom, close the bleed screw and move to the next wheel. Repeat
as necessary.
The clear poly hose lets you see fluid being moved into the system.
Pushing
fluid from the bottom lets the trapped air rise [which it naturally wants
to do]. You may find this to be the most simple "one man brake bleed
system" you ever used.
Once you have visually added a bit of fluid from each wheel [bottom up]
top
off the master cylinder and try the brakes.. you should have full peddle
pressure within a couple strokes.
So far, it has worked every time for cars, and trucks. I'm sure some
engineer somewhere is right now designing a system that defeats mine.. but
not yet.
HTH,
Grant...
AZ
On Sat, Apr 20, 2013 at 3:16 PM, Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> wrote:
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
I've been using this one for about eight or nine years and been
completely
satisfied with it. It came with a spare parts list and phone number to
call, which I always think is a good sign that the company expects you
to
keep it a while, but hasn't needed any repair yet.
http://www.go2marine.com/****product/100565F/suckup-oil-**<http://www.go2marine.com/**product/100565F/suckup-oil-**>
extractor-with-probes.html<htt**p://www.go2marine.com/product/**
100565F/suckup-oil-extractor-**with-probes.html<http://www.go2marine.com/product/100565F/suckup-oil-extractor-with-probes.html>
Alex
Suckup looks a bit like a weed sprayer with the pump valves installed
backward so it evacuates when you work the pump.
Hmm, that gives me an idea, sort of like the homemade speedi-bleed....
Mitch.
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