Update - I changed the injectors and there was no change. Installed new/used/unmolested ALDA, it actually runs a little worse. I drove it today about 20 miles on the highway. It started very hard and would not not stay running without pushing the accelerator to the floor until it started to gain rpm's. Once on the road it continued to smoke and top speed was 60 mph with very low power. Tomorrow I will pop the valve cover and check the timing using the "non-drip" method.
Michael E. Esh 231-286-2344 On Jul 1, 2013, at 12:02 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote: >> Since this problem started with the installation of another IP, and >> persists with a second IP, I would be very suspicious of the installer - >> doing the same thing twice and expecting a different result! Now, it is >> possible that you have two defective IPs, I've had that with alternators >> from FLAPS, but used Bosch IPs don't usually give that kind of trouble. I >> like the suggestion of checking the timing with the drip tube! >> >> THe ALDA, injectors, etc. did not "go bad" just when you changed the IP. It >> about has to be IP timing. > > Agreed Listen to OK Don. > > You don't have to go through the brain damage of drip tube timing. Just take > off the valve cover and the #1 injection line. turn the engine over slowly > (in the operating direction, CW facing the front of the engine.) and watch > the cam lopes on #1. Exhaust is at the front of the engine, and #1 intake is > the second lobe. After the intake lobe pushed the intake valve open and > then lets it close, clear the fuel out of the taperec part of the top of the > DV union on the top of the IP. You can blow this out with a soda straw, or > soak it up with a paper towel. then turn the engine verrrry slooooowly until > you see fuel start to rise in the small part of the DV union. This IS the > beginning of delivery. Now read the cranshaft damper degree wheel at the > pointer. It should be the setting for start of delivery or a couple of > degrees late. If you don't get fuel, and you continue to turn the engine > over until the exhaust valve opens and fuel is delivered about the time the > exhaust valve closes, your IP is 360º out of time on the crank, or 180º out > of time on the IP shaft. > > While this method is not 100% accurate for timing the IP, it WILL tell you if > you are in the ballpark. I repeat it several times, because each time I can > get closer to the actual start of injection. I used this method for timing > OM 621s for years and I could get it within 1/2 degree of drip tube timing > without all the hassle, or the danger of introducing dirt in the IP when you > remove the DV for the trip tube timing by the book. > > If your timing is within 5 or even 10 degrees, you won't get the symptoms you > describe. These engines are pretty forgiving. If timing is the issue, it > was to be WAY out to get those symptoms. > > THat is why I asked a couple weeks ago how many times has this guy > successfully changed IPs. It is a relevant question even if it makes you > uncomfortable. > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
