For dino oils, Penzoil used to be bad about gunk buildup. Havoline
never caused problems in my experience.
As Larry says, use the proper oil and change it at more frequent
intervals for a while. I think M1 will clean the gunk out over time.
I do NOT have experience with engines that are started, driven a
block or two and shut off. (severe duty) If the car has that kind
of history, then for sure, re-read Larry's advice.
I would NOT be dumping any kind of snake oil (or brake cleaner) in
the crankcase for any purpose. Bardahl and Rislone used to make
additives for this purpose with old 'merkun iron, but I would NOT use
either in a modern MB with the current tight tolerances. YMMV
Not off topic at all! If I understand your description of the gunk
around the filler cap it sounds like it may be condensation which is
normally forced to evaporate when the engine is driven long enough
to get fully warmed up and stay warmed up for several miles. If
the sludge is kind of grayish and the consistency of jello it may be
condensation. If not, never mind. ;-) But in any case, sludge
should not be forming on a engine receiving regular oil changes.
Perhaps the PO failed to change the oil at regular intervals? I'm
not familiar with the sensors MB uses to tell owners when to change
their oil but if it goes more than 9000 miles or so I'd get antsy
and change it anyway. We've done a number of TBN tests of various
oils and the Total Base Number starts to be depleted after around
9000 miles. I know, some people go more miles than that without
apparent problems but that's what the lab numbers say. Of course,
different oils, weights, sub brands, and other factors contribute to
different TBNs and their depletion rate. Total Base Number is a
measure of the oils ability to neutralize the acids that are created
by the combustion process.
So it's a difference between black gooey stuff and a creamy
grayish stuff. If it's black and gooey IMO oil changes have been
neglected. If it's grayish and creamy, it's not being fully warmed
up.....
Condensation is a common problem for people who start their car,
drive a couple of miles to work/school or whatever and shut it down.
I don't know what your driving habits are (or more likely the
PO's) but if an engine is going to be started, it needs to be driven
until it is warm, then maintain that heat for a while - this will
force evaporate any moisture that condenses overnight. If the
thermostat is not working properly the engine can fail to reach
operating temp - my 91 300D was like this when we bought it and it
never got above 160F - but this was winter in Va.
LarryT
91 300D
The Oil Analysis Co.
youroil.net
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