Thanks for the data.  Stuff is sort of brown and muddy looking.  I am guessing 
PO did not drive it to hot or long much.  He also may have believed the 
marketing, and gone with book intervals.  That may mean I have to flush the 
transmission and engine to clear the snot out and start kind of new.

clay


On Jul 22, 2013, at 3:47 AM, Larry T wrote:

> Not off topic at all!  If I understand your description of the gunk around 
> the filler cap it sounds like it may be condensation which is normally forced 
> to evaporate when the engine is driven long enough to get fully warmed up and 
> stay warmed up for several miles.   If the sludge is kind of grayish and the 
> consistency of jello it may be condensation.   If not, never mind. ;-)   But 
> in any case, sludge should not be forming on a engine receiving regular oil 
> changes.    Perhaps the PO failed to change the oil at regular intervals?   
> I'm not familiar with the sensors MB uses to tell owners when to change their 
> oil but if it goes more than 9000 miles or so I'd get antsy and change it 
> anyway.    We've done a number of TBN tests of various oils and the Total 
> Base Number starts to be depleted after around 9000 miles.  I know, some 
> people go more miles than that without apparent problems but that's what the 
> lab numbers say. Of course, different oils, weights, sub brands, and other 
> factors 
 contribute to different TBNs and their depletion rate.    Total Base Number is 
a measure of the oils ability to neutralize the acids that are created by the 
combustion process.
> 
>    So it's a difference between black gooey stuff and a creamy grayish stuff. 
>   If it's black and gooey IMO oil changes have been neglected.  If it's 
> grayish and creamy, it's not being fully warmed up.....
> 
>    Condensation is a common problem for people who start their car, drive a 
> couple of miles to work/school or whatever and shut it down.
> 
>    I don't know what your driving habits are (or more likely  the PO's) but 
> if an engine is going to be started, it needs to be driven until it is warm, 
> then maintain that heat for a while - this will force evaporate any moisture 
> that condenses overnight. If the thermostat is not working properly the 
> engine can fail to reach operating temp - my 91 300D was like this when we 
> bought it and it never got above 160F - but this was winter in Va.
> 
> LarryT
> 91 300D
> The Oil Analysis Co.
> youroil.net
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/21/2013 3:35 PM, clay wrote:
>> A little off topic
>> 
>> The w220 is one of the new, long period lubrication engines.  Previous cars 
>> got regular oil swaps between 3-6k miles.  They probably got driven a bit 
>> more as well.  I never noticed sludge, except on Gump after the cam tower 
>> broke and I stopped driving it.  A few month later the sludge covered the 
>> cam lobes.
>> 
>> I got the S430 with 104k miles and around 800 miles until it wanted an A 
>> service.  Drove it for 1200 miles before the oil change.  Before the trip 
>> (SEA to DEN in 20 hours) I removed the filler cap and found some thick 
>> sludge like crap.  I thought the trip would thin it out.  Service B is in 8k 
>> miles.  I think the shop used  a Shell full synth.
>> 
>> Should I use a SeaFoam or other cleaner in 3k and change the oil?  Will that 
>> cut through the sludge?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> clay
>> 
>> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jul 20, 2013, at 5:11 PM, Larry T wrote:
>> 
>>> I'll send you a kit -- are you still at the same address?  Please keep the 
>>> crankcase attached to the engine til you can run it about 3 or 4 minutes so 
>>> the fuel can circulate andany contamination can be suspended in the oil. 
>>> Leaving the case on with the oil in it allows the engine to start and also 
>>> keeps the oil as is until you get the kit and can put a few ounces directly 
>>> from the crankcase to the provided bottle.    Using any other container can 
>>> contaminate the sample and it may be a waste of time/money.    I'll put the 
>>> kit in the mail Monday - IIRC you live pretty close to me - should have the 
>>> kit Wed or Thurs I think.
>>> 
>>> How's that sound?  I'll send you a invoice later next week and you can send 
>>> a Paypal payment or call/email me with a credit card.   A single Kits are a 
>>> $21.95 plus shipping.    3 Kit Packs are a little cheaper....  more are 
>>> cheaper still...    I hate to bring up payment as I know what kind of 
>>> expense you will  face if you intend to keep that MB!
>>> 
>>> I'm having  trouble finding your last invoice or analysis report -what is 
>>> your full name please?
>>> 
>>> Take care --
>>> Larry 91 300D
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 7/19/2013 10:27 PM, WILTON wrote:
>>>> 'Thought I sent this to the list yesterday; 'turns out I sent it to 
>>>> myself. I guess that's why I got no responses today. ;<)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> I'm thinking the extra "stuff" in my SDL oil pan is fuel (well, most,
>>>> anyway).  'Sniffed and felt it several days ago when I discovered the
>>>> shockingly extra volume of "oil" and again yesterday; 'can't detect fuel
>>>> smell, but sure looks and feels like fuel - oil appears very diluted. Extra
>>>> quantity of oil appearing at exactly same time as missing significant
>>>> quantity of coolant certainly made me jump on coolant, but lack of "foam"
>>>> and cafe au lait appearance seems to point away from coolant somewhat,
>>>> though I did see a few bubbles.  BTW, overflow tank was under excessive
>>>> (yes, excessive) pressure when I removed cap the day I found it empty. What
>>>> about firmness of upper rad hose?
>>>> 
>>>> Isn't the IP the only place where oil and fuel are in close proximity?
>>>> Somebody 'splain their separation (or lack thereof) in the IP.
>>>> 
>>>> BTW, car starts with just touch of starter and idles nicely. Coupla days
>>>> ago, after the missing coolant incident, it started instantly but ran
>>>> roughly and haltingly for few seconds then smoothed out.
>>>> 
>>>> 'Gonna remove the diluted oil and put some new oil in so I can drive it a
>>>> bit.
>>>> 
>>>> Larry, whatdya need for oil analysis?
>>>> 
>>>> I'm still leaning toward letting 'er go; y'all prepare your bids. ;<)
>>>> 
>>>> BTW, tranny rebuilt 4 or 5 years ago; cruise and climate controls work 
>>>> nicely - blows ICE COLD, no rust.  :<)
>>>> 
>>>> Wilton
>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "WILTON" <wilt...@nc.rr.com>
>>>>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 1:03 PM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '91 350SDL bad news
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> If I "give up," it hasn't been so easily and quickly; 'been nursing this 
>>>>>> car for 17 ears - since timing chain broke at 89 kmi and I learned about 
>>>>>> the rod-bender 350's.   To "give up" or to "go quietly" is very 
>>>>>> uncharacteristic of me, but sometimes ya need to "fold 'em," to.   ;<)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Wilton
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Bennell" <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
>>>>>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 11:26 AM
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '91 350SDL bad news
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On 18/07/2013 9:51 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 7:29 AM, Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I feel its  a shame to not fix this car...
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I thought Rich and Max _were_ going to fix it, hence the offer of $500
>>>>>>>> + trailer?  IIRC Rich has a replacement engine already lined up ready
>>>>>>>> to go, or ready to donate its head if that's all that's needed.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Alex
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> BUT, we are trying to persuade Wilton not to give up easily and dispose 
>>>>>>> of a beautiful car for $500 (evn if someone else on the list)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Randy
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> _______________________________________
>>>>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>>>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>> 
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>> 
>>> _______________________________________
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> _______________________________________
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Reply via email to