Mr. Hattaway, maybe you should not assume folks are stupid.  Been a
mechanic over 25 years.  You try starting even a good starting Diesel with
the average set of cables people use these days and a bad battery and you
are going to burn up the cables.  They are meant to charge first, then
start.  Heavy cables are not cheap and most people do not own a $100 set of
jumper cables capable of starting a Diesel.  Yes, charging only isn't a big
deal and completely safe as long as he is careful.  Not even really likely
to damage the diodes swapping terminals as long as nothing is crossed.

Mike
Who is trying to be of help and takes offense to being told he is an idiot,
in so many words.
On Sep 3, 2013 5:04 PM, "Richard Hattaway" <rhatta...@rocketmail.com> wrote:

> What kind of claim is this???
>
> Jumper cables are like welding cable.  At least good ones are.  The two
> batteries are running 12 volts float.  There is little likelihood of
> anything other than minor charging going on between the two batteries,
> since he said he's disconnecting the 'good' vehicles cabling.
>
> This is nothing more than jump starting the car as far as the cables are
> concerned.  Nothing is going to burn up here.
>
> In fact, what will probably happen is the alternator will begin charging
> the newly introduced battery since the questionable one was run dry, thus
> has a high resistance cell eliminating the ability for the battery to be
> charged by the alternator.  He's looking for 13.7 out of the alternator
> which is correct, and should be achieved if A) the alternator is capable of
> charging, and B) the battery is able to be charged.
>
> It's a simple test, takes seconds, and is accurate.  It can be done in
> business clothes.  It eliminates or proves half of the A) and B) above.
> There is no chance of meltdown or fire any more than there is during any
> jump start situation.
>
> Please be accurate and thoughtful with your posts before making some wild
> comment about burning up cables, etc.  Someone here might think you know
> what you're talking about.
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Alternator question '83 300D
>
>
> If you are saying you are going to use your jumper cables in between the
> 240 battery and the 300 cables and starter yhen you better have a big set
> of cables.  Like welding cable.  Otherwise you will burn them up and not
> answer your question.  Better to just swap out the batteries and see if the
> issue follows the battery from the 300.
>
> Mike
> On Sep 3, 2013 2:21 PM, "Gerry Archer" <arche...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> > That's a good idea, Richard.  I'll put the 240D and the 300D side by side
> > and jumper with all the cables off.  I know the 240D battery is good.
> > Batteries are both group 49.
> > Thanks,
> > Gerry
> >
> > From: "Richard Hattaway" <rhatta...@rocketmail.com>
> > Like everybody else has said, please change the battery before you go to
> > all that trouble. You could even just use some jumper cables and clamp
> > another one in parallel to the toasted one to prove your point. Much
> easier
> > than messing with regulators and drill presses (c:
> >
> > Thanks to Rick, Richard, and Loren for your advice; and to Fred for the
> > connector which arrived in good order. Going to wire it up and try it
> > again. If the connector wasn't the problem, will put a good regulator in
> > and try it. If that doesn't work, will chuck the 3 used alternators in
> the
> > drill press one at a time and try the half dozen regulators (hooked to
> the
> > 12 volt shop battery) until I find a good combination. If "that" doesn't
> > work, I'll assume that the battery, (which had boiled out most of its
> water
> > in one cell), is at fault and get FLAPS to put in a new battery which
> they
> > agree to do at my option.
> >
> > Gerry....mostly talking to myself
> >
> >
> >
> > ______________________________**_________
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