That brake bleeder that was discussed some years ago uses a flaps cap with an 
air fitting and low pressure to push the fluid from the reservoir using your 
air compressor.  That would push it more quickly.  I use a mityvac to suck it 
out, kinda messy but works.

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Dec 25, 2013, at 7:58 PM, Larry T <l02tur...@comcast.net> wrote:

*Great idea!!  I have a couple of spare fuel pumps (MGB which are nominally 
3-5psi) that should do the job and I may add a T and do both wheels on one axle 
at a time.   It may be more trouble than it's worth as watching the MC will 
become even more critical.   i guess I could make a push button on/off switch 
with long wires so i could watch the MC and turn the pump on and off as 
needed**......**
**
**Thanks for the suggestion ---  I may try this...   i keep thinking the inlet 
and outlet on the FP are a lot larger than the bleeder so I may **need a 
adapter ...*

Sincerely,
Larry

> On 12/25/2013 1:13 PM, G Mann wrote:
> I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.
> 
> Purchase a 12 volt fuel pump, Low pressure pump that does 10 psi or less
> will work fine.  Purchase some clear poly tubing, the semi soft kind, that
> will fit over the brake bleeder nicely.  Connect that line to the 12v fuel
> pump intake port, connect some more of same line to the output side of
> pump. Place output hose in an empty soda bottle.
> 
> Open brake master cap. Open bleed valve [Start at the longest line]. Have
> supply of fresh fluid handy.  Turn on pump and watch the master cylinder
> reservoir level go down. When the reservoir level gets to bottom 1/4 , add
> clean fluid and pump more while watching for clean fluid to come out of
> bleed port.  When you get clean fluid, stop the pump and close the bleed
> port.  Refill the master and move to the next longest line.
> 
> Repeat for each wheel, always keeping the master reservoir with a good
> supply of clean fluid.
> 
> Total time to bleed all 4 wheels and replace the total fluid with fresh is
> usually less than 15 minutes.
> 
> It helps if all 4 wheels are off the ground and car in firmly on jack
> stands.
> 
> As always, be safe.   12 volt, low end fuel pump online cost was less than
> $25. That pump is a dedicated brake bleed pump only now.  When I'm all
> done, I flush the pump with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner available
> at any hardware].  Dispose of the used brake fluid properly.. save the baby
> seals and the whales.. as always.
> 
> Grant...
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T <l02tur...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Gang -
>>     I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and R&R the
>> Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.
>> 
>>     2 questions:
>> 
>> 1.          What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
>>    forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
>> 2.          How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
>>    without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
>>    have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
>>    so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
>>    the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.
>> 
>> Thanks Guys!
>> 
>>  Sincerely,
>> Larry
>> 
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