I use a MityVac and one of those plastic siphon jars with the dip tube in it. 
Works for me and makes it easy to do with minimal mess.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 25, 2013, at 2:53 PM, Rich Thomas 
> <richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> 
> That brake bleeder that was discussed some years ago uses a flaps cap with an 
> air fitting and low pressure to push the fluid from the reservoir using your 
> air compressor.  That would push it more quickly.  I use a mityvac to suck it 
> out, kinda messy but works.
> 
> --R (sent from my miniPad)
> 
> On Dec 25, 2013, at 7:58 PM, Larry T <l02tur...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> *Great idea!!  I have a couple of spare fuel pumps (MGB which are nominally 
> 3-5psi) that should do the job and I may add a T and do both wheels on one 
> axle at a time.   It may be more trouble than it's worth as watching the MC 
> will become even more critical.   i guess I could make a push button on/off 
> switch with long wires so i could watch the MC and turn the pump on and off 
> as needed**......**
> **
> **Thanks for the suggestion ---  I may try this...   i keep thinking the 
> inlet and outlet on the FP are a lot larger than the bleeder so I may **need 
> a adapter ...*
> 
> Sincerely,
> Larry
> 
>> On 12/25/2013 1:13 PM, G Mann wrote:
>> I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.
>> 
>> Purchase a 12 volt fuel pump, Low pressure pump that does 10 psi or less
>> will work fine.  Purchase some clear poly tubing, the semi soft kind, that
>> will fit over the brake bleeder nicely.  Connect that line to the 12v fuel
>> pump intake port, connect some more of same line to the output side of
>> pump. Place output hose in an empty soda bottle.
>> 
>> Open brake master cap. Open bleed valve [Start at the longest line]. Have
>> supply of fresh fluid handy.  Turn on pump and watch the master cylinder
>> reservoir level go down. When the reservoir level gets to bottom 1/4 , add
>> clean fluid and pump more while watching for clean fluid to come out of
>> bleed port.  When you get clean fluid, stop the pump and close the bleed
>> port.  Refill the master and move to the next longest line.
>> 
>> Repeat for each wheel, always keeping the master reservoir with a good
>> supply of clean fluid.
>> 
>> Total time to bleed all 4 wheels and replace the total fluid with fresh is
>> usually less than 15 minutes.
>> 
>> It helps if all 4 wheels are off the ground and car in firmly on jack
>> stands.
>> 
>> As always, be safe.   12 volt, low end fuel pump online cost was less than
>> $25. That pump is a dedicated brake bleed pump only now.  When I'm all
>> done, I flush the pump with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner available
>> at any hardware].  Dispose of the used brake fluid properly.. save the baby
>> seals and the whales.. as always.
>> 
>> Grant...
>> 
>> 
>>> On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T <l02tur...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Gang -
>>>    I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and R&R the
>>> Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.
>>> 
>>>    2 questions:
>>> 
>>> 1.          What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
>>>   forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
>>> 2.          How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
>>>   without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
>>>   have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
>>>   so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
>>>   the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.
>>> 
>>> Thanks Guys!
>>> 
>>> Sincerely,
>>> Larry
>>> 
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