You mount them on the wall up near the ceiling, they need 9" or so above
for proper circulation (actually, sucking in air that then gets
heated/cooled and blown out the bottom). They have a metal bracket you
screw into some studs, drill a 2" hole through the wall to the outside
(or in my cases I ran the lines up the inside of the walls and up and
over one ceiling) in the proper place for the refrigerant lines and
drain and the wires that communicate with the outdoor unit. The unit
then just hangs on the bracket, they actually don't weigh much. You'll
want to pick a good spot to get the air circulating around the room.
900 ft2 you might want 2 indoor units at opposite ends of the room or
something just to get good coverage.
Then you run the lines from the outdoor unit up to the lines from the
indoor unit that are sticking out the wall to the outside and connect
those, secure everything to the walls (they have plastic chases you can
buy to cover them if you want).
Mine you can adjust where the output blows, or have it sweep around and
up and down, whatever suits.
I find in the winter it helps to have a ceiling fan going slowly to keep
the warm air circulated. When cooling you don't want that so much.
--JC
On 7/18/16 1:20 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
How and where are the room cooling units typically mounted?
On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Joel Cairo via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
If you do the install yourself then call an AC guy to pull down
the vacuum, test for leaks, etc. and release the refrigerant and
check operation, the cost is little more than buying the units,
piping, disconnect, and support brackets, drilling a 2" hole
through the wall, running lines, and mounting the indoor unit. You
will need some power to run it so might have to run a line from
your box. If the electrical is not too bad you could get it put
in one Saturday, then have your guy come Monday to charge it.
If you have to hire that all out, you could be looking at maybe
$1000-$2000 over the cost of the units, which is crazy but that's
how those guys make their money.
--JC
On 7/18/16 12:37 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
This may offer a solution to our hot third floor office. We
need to cool
about900 sq. ft. What is the installation cost? Operating cost?
On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
I found this site:
http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/hvac-sizing.html which
has a chart that suggests 1.5 ton (18kBTU) should be fine
for where we are.
I'd like to limit to one head for a couple reasons:Simplified
installation reduced costfewer connections so less chance
for problems down
the road
We've only ever had central AC, there are 4 main rooms in
the house
(900sqft remember) which all have ceiling fans so the cold
air moves around
good.
I was thinking:
https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-Air-Conditioners/LS180HSV4-LS180HSV4-18000-BTU-20-SEER-Ductless-Mini-Split-Heat-Pump/51907.ac?catId=cat1028&mainCat=&subCat=&trail=68443:1.5%20Ton
It'll be awhile anyway, gotta put a roof on the place first.
-Curt
From: Joel Cairo via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Joel Cairo <buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
<mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Home AC Question
It would mostly depend on how the house is laid out. if
it is fairly
open I would do like a 24kBTU unit with 2x12k heads, put
one in the
living area and one in the bedroom. If you have 2
bedrooms you would
probably want to get 3 head units which might kick the
outdoor unit up
to 27k BTU. My 4-head unit (which is currently dead, I
think the
control board has fried) is a 36k outdoor unit.
Here is an LG with 3x9k head units, 27k outdoor unit
https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-Air-Conditioners/LMU24CHV-LSN090HSV4-LSN090HSV4-LSN090HSV4-27000-BTU-21-Seer-Heat-Pump/52414.ac?catId=cat1035&mainCat=&subCat=&trail=1004:LG
The units throttle output so that is the max they would be
putting out,
27k or 36k would probably be quite sufficient though in
your climate you
might need some backup heat for when it gets REALLY cold
up there --
they don't have heat strips like the air blowing units.
--R
On 7/17/16 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
Our house is 900sqft, what would you figured we'd need
in a mini-split
to replace the wall mount AC we've got now? The wall mount
cools the house
fine, I'm planning for when it dies.
We're pretty well insulated, once I get the roof
replaced we'll even up
that some more.
-Curt
From: Mitch Haley via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>
Cc: Mitch Haley <mi...@mitchellhaley.com
<mailto:mi...@mitchellhaley.com>>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Home AC Question
On July 17, 2016 at 4:33 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
It’s about 93F, humidity is near saturation at 78%,
and the heat index
is in the 102F range. 100% sun exposure on the roof surface.
The AC will run continuously from now until about 6:00
pm when the sun
dips below the treeline of the adjacent lot. It will
maintain the 74F
setpoint and the temperature won’t go above that.
So based on what you describe the system is working as
intended and at
or near peak efficiency.
Yep, it sounds like perfect design performance on a
design afternoon.
When you think it's too old, or when it quits, replace
it with a 4 ton,
preferably two stage condenser. Fortunately, up here in
the frosty North,
I've had about 5 cooling design afternoons all summer, and
design temp is
only for 2-3 hours a day.
And my house is enough smaller / better shaded /
better insulated than
yours that I have no idea how hot it would have to get to
make my 1.5 Ton
unit run 100% duty cycle. Design afternoons are close to
50% duty.
Mitch.
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--BB
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