I just got off the phone with a guy who says he can get me a new
controller board for my LG unit. He used to sell them but has now gone
with Samsung because he says their customer service and responsiveness
is better, but he said they are all decent units.
My local guy would rather put in standard ducted systems, he thinks they
are more reliable from the leakage standpoint as each indoor unit has 4
connections, a standard unit has just 4 for ever how many rooms. The
mini-splits are easier to put in though, and probably more efficient.
--JC
On 7/18/16 3:07 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
Thanks - very clear.
The workers just finished mounting 55 285-watt Suniva solar panels on
the roof so I may wait awhile for the system to get turned on and sort
itself out before adding an additional layer of complexity.
On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 2:00 PM, Joel Cairo via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
You mount them on the wall up near the ceiling, they need 9" or so
above for proper circulation (actually, sucking in air that then
gets heated/cooled and blown out the bottom). They have a metal
bracket you screw into some studs, drill a 2" hole through the
wall to the outside (or in my cases I ran the lines up the inside
of the walls and up and over one ceiling) in the proper place for
the refrigerant lines and drain and the wires that communicate
with the outdoor unit. The unit then just hangs on the bracket,
they actually don't weigh much. You'll want to pick a good spot
to get the air circulating around the room. 900 ft2 you might
want 2 indoor units at opposite ends of the room or something just
to get good coverage.
Then you run the lines from the outdoor unit up to the lines from
the indoor unit that are sticking out the wall to the outside and
connect those, secure everything to the walls (they have plastic
chases you can buy to cover them if you want).
Mine you can adjust where the output blows, or have it sweep
around and up and down, whatever suits.
I find in the winter it helps to have a ceiling fan going slowly
to keep the warm air circulated. When cooling you don't want that
so much.
--JC
On 7/18/16 1:20 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
How and where are the room cooling units typically mounted?
On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Joel Cairo via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>>
wrote:
If you do the install yourself then call an AC guy to pull
down
the vacuum, test for leaks, etc. and release the
refrigerant and
check operation, the cost is little more than buying the
units,
piping, disconnect, and support brackets, drilling a 2" hole
through the wall, running lines, and mounting the indoor
unit. You
will need some power to run it so might have to run a line
from
your box. If the electrical is not too bad you could get
it put
in one Saturday, then have your guy come Monday to charge it.
If you have to hire that all out, you could be looking at
maybe
$1000-$2000 over the cost of the units, which is crazy but
that's
how those guys make their money.
--JC
On 7/18/16 12:37 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
This may offer a solution to our hot third floor
office. We
need to cool
about900 sq. ft. What is the installation cost?
Operating cost?
On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Curt Raymond via
Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>>
wrote:
I found this site:
http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/hvac-sizing.html which
has a chart that suggests 1.5 ton (18kBTU) should
be fine
for where we are.
I'd like to limit to one head for a couple
reasons:Simplified
installation reduced costfewer connections so less
chance
for problems down
the road
We've only ever had central AC, there are 4 main
rooms in
the house
(900sqft remember) which all have ceiling fans so
the cold
air moves around
good.
I was thinking:
https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-Air-Conditioners/LS180HSV4-LS180HSV4-18000-BTU-20-SEER-Ductless-Mini-Split-Heat-Pump/51907.ac?catId=cat1028&mainCat=&subCat=&trail=68443:1.5%20Ton
It'll be awhile anyway, gotta put a roof on the
place first.
-Curt
From: Joel Cairo via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com> <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>>
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com> <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>
Cc: Joel Cairo <buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
<mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com>
<mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
<mailto:buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com>>>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Home AC Question
It would mostly depend on how the house is laid
out. if
it is fairly
open I would do like a 24kBTU unit with 2x12k
heads, put
one in the
living area and one in the bedroom. If you have 2
bedrooms you would
probably want to get 3 head units which might kick the
outdoor unit up
to 27k BTU. My 4-head unit (which is currently
dead, I
think the
control board has fried) is a 36k outdoor unit.
Here is an LG with 3x9k head units, 27k outdoor unit
https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-Air-Conditioners/LMU24CHV-LSN090HSV4-LSN090HSV4-LSN090HSV4-27000-BTU-21-Seer-Heat-Pump/52414.ac?catId=cat1035&mainCat=&subCat=&trail=1004:LG
The units throttle output so that is the max they
would be
putting out,
27k or 36k would probably be quite sufficient
though in
your climate you
might need some backup heat for when it gets
REALLY cold
up there --
they don't have heat strips like the air blowing
units.
--R
On 7/17/16 6:23 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
Our house is 900sqft, what would you figured
we'd need
in a mini-split
to replace the wall mount AC we've got now? The
wall mount
cools the house
fine, I'm planning for when it dies.
We're pretty well insulated, once I get the roof
replaced we'll even up
that some more.
-Curt
From: Mitch Haley via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com> <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>>
To: Mercedes Discussion List
<mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>>
Cc: Mitch Haley <mi...@mitchellhaley.com
<mailto:mi...@mitchellhaley.com>
<mailto:mi...@mitchellhaley.com
<mailto:mi...@mitchellhaley.com>>>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Home AC Question
On July 17, 2016 at 4:33 PM Dan Penoff via
Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
<mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>>>
wrote:
It’s about 93F, humidity is near saturation
at 78%,
and the heat index
is in the 102F range. 100% sun exposure on the
roof surface.
The AC will run continuously from now until
about 6:00
pm when the sun
dips below the treeline of the adjacent lot. It will
maintain the 74F
setpoint and the temperature won’t go above that.
So based on what you describe the system is
working as
intended and at
or near peak efficiency.
Yep, it sounds like perfect design performance
on a
design afternoon.
When you think it's too old, or when it quits,
replace
it with a 4 ton,
preferably two stage condenser. Fortunately, up
here in
the frosty North,
I've had about 5 cooling design afternoons all
summer, and
design temp is
only for 2-3 hours a day.
And my house is enough smaller / better shaded /
better insulated than
yours that I have no idea how hot it would have to
get to
make my 1.5 Ton
unit run 100% duty cycle. Design afternoons are
close to
50% duty.
Mitch.
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