It looks like one of these in each panel will do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-BRSURGE-Whole-Panel-Arrest-Breaker/dp/B00PM927KK
Or one of these specifically on the AC unit circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-BR230SUR/dp/B00JV3EIG4
Not sure that will deal with voltage swings but if the issue is
spikes/surges these should trip off the units or the whole panel?
--R
On 7/28/16 12:37 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Go the JC route: Buy a used humongus APC UPS for cheep. Buy some
batteries to make it work. Wire it in as a whole house (estate)
unit. Less costly over the long run than a bunch of UPSs/surge
protector. one other route is what they call a buckbooster. It is
basically a big box (transformer and probably capacitors) that cleans
up the line voltage
(JC in this case is Cathey)
This was/is a very common problem in Hawaii and in turd world countries.
And yes, you can buy new surge protectors for each unit. Trot on
down to your friendly local electric supply.
Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
July 28, 2016 at 11:17 AM
So at the water board meeting this morning our engineer was talking
about some problems in the distribution system, seems as though a
coupla weeks ago in the early morning the SCADA system started
sending alarms, which woke her up, sensors on our 3 tanks were all
over the place then one failed. Looked like a power hit but there
were no storms in the area, so it was the powerco sending out trash
power, voltage up and down, surges, etc. which blew a $900 sensor on
the tank that is pretty much across the road from my vast estate.
The manager of the other system on Seabrook Island, just down the
road, said they were getting voltage readings on a 480V line of
420-540V, all over the map, and that they lost a well pump (2300ft in
the hole) they are going to have to pull and replace for $3k.
I said, when was that again? It was exactly the time my AC unit
board blew out, and we are on the same circuit as the water tank, and
Seabrook feed off the same substation that is just down the road, so
the powerco's shitty power blew out my $500 control board, the water
cos' $900 sensor and $3k pump. I wonder how many others lost
electronics that night?
She says the powerco won't guarantee clean power on the Island, so we
are all pretty much screwed on the cost of the equipment. Nice. So I
need to look at getting some surge protectors on my AC units (220V
30A circuits) -- are there line surge protectors I can wire in at the
shutoffs by the units? Or at the panel?
I guess I need to get some little UPSs or surge protectors for my TVs
and stereo equipment too. I have been thinking about that anyway as
there are lightning hits around quite often, so that makes sense, and
now with the AC unit.
--FT
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Mitch Haley via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
July 15, 2016 at 6:52 AM
The bigger ones have lower ratings, but I just checked and the multi
zone have higher ratings than one giant single zone:
Fujitsu Halcyon Inverter units:
36RLXB 3 ton single zone 15.5 SEER $3150
36RLXFZ 3 ton quad zone 18 SEER $4500-4900
9RLFW 3/4 ton single zone 23 SEER $1425 (the one I just gave to my
parents)
9RLS3 3/4 ton single zone 33 SEER $1585
Note that four 9000BTU 23 SEER cost $800 more at ACWholesalers than
one 18 SEER 36,000BTU outdoor unit with four 9000 BTU indoor units.
But if you have a controller board failure, you still have three
functioning units if you have four compressors.
Mitch.
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Craig via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
July 14, 2016 at 10:29 PM
On Thu, 14 Jul 2016 23:21:12 -0400 (EDT) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
That's interesting. I thought the bigger units had higher SEER ratings.
Craig
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Mitch Haley via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
July 14, 2016 at 10:21 PM
Sounds like the outdoor unit could use a brain transplant.
Back when I bought mine in 2012, Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, and Dakin were
the trusted names among the guys at HVAC-Talk. Somebody told me LGs
were good too, but susceptible to voltage spikes or something. I
think a whole house surge protector and dedicated ground rod at the
outdoor unit were recommended.
I got a 3/4 ton Fujitsu in 2012. It sort of cooled my whole house
before I put in a central heat pump, I hadn't really used it much
since then.
Took it out of my living room and put it in my parents' bedroom last
month. Mom sets it at 78 to keep it from freezing her out of their
master suite. I used to set it in the 70-74 range and run my furnace
blower to spread it around the house.
We'd been talking about buying a three way Mitsubishi for my parents'
living room / dining room / computer room, but now I'm thinking it's
worth a few hundred extra to buy 3 single room units. The single room
units always have a higher SEER rating too.
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Joel Cairo via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
July 14, 2016 at 9:39 PM
Yeah we tried shutting off and restarting, no go. The board on the
compressor has some LEDs that should be lighting but aren't. The
indoor units are all blinking their light saying they can't talk to
the outdoor unit. They have power off the outdoor unit through a 12V
source. I'm thinking there might be a 5V tap on the transformer too
for the circuit board, I vaguely recall that from my quick perusal of
the manual. I guess I'll check that first, see if it is putting out
5V and the board is getting power.
yes it is an LG unit. My guy says they have troubles with the
Mitsubishis, which are supposedly "the best" and he does not like the
mini-splits. He also said Mits makes their own, all the other Asian
brands are made by one company he could not remember, so they are all
pretty much the same.
I can probably get Amazon prime free shipping on a tank or if it is
over $49 and I can wait for a tortoise delivery...
--JC
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--
--FT
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