> Curley wrote:
> 
> Since the fuse blew, you could still have a grounded GP.

Yup.  Or just a "worn" fuse.  I have never overloaded one of those
fuses - but I've replace a lot of failed ones.

> Without a meter that has a range of 0-20 or 0-50 ohms or a finer
> scale, or a digital that can read in 10th of an ohm, it is very
> difficult to discriminate between a shorted GP and a good GP.

I'll repeat what I've written before about the best method I've
found for testing glow plugs.

I attached 12 AWG wire leads to an old automotive dash style
ammeter that reads -30 0 +30 Amps.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow plug
in this connector.  I clip one meter lead to the fused side of the
big, screw-in fuse and then touch each glowplug contact, one at a
time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and these numbers
correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

Once the one wire is connected to the fuse, DO NOT LET THE
OTHER WIRE TOUCH CHASSIS GROUND!!!  Or the big fuse will blow
and possibly so will your ammeter. :)

If the plug is bad, the current will usually be less.  If it is
shorted it will be much more.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.

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