If # 3 is leaking noticeably less fuel than the others, you have
identified the problem. They screwed up your pump! You should demand
that that shop FIX IT. The fix is to either provide you a rebuilt IP or
pay to have your IP rebuilt, and a rental car while yours is down.
Repeat the test. It should only take 1/3 to 2/3 turn to get the fuel to
squirt out and determine which cyl is weak. If you loosen #3 and the
idle does not get as rough as when you loosen any other that is the culprit.
If #3 is indeed pumping noticeably less than the other 4, there is NO
NEED to remove the injectors.
If #3 seems to pump the same volume as the others, then the next step
would be to determine the weak cyl and they swap 2 injectors to see if
the problem moves.
Taking out the nozzle holder does not require a special tool you need a
1 1/16" deep socket with the splines cut all the way up. Crapsman used
to be the easy way to find one. I am not sure if the current stuff is
still the same.
Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 27, 2017 at 1:07 PM
Thanks Curley. You're talking about removing the Injectors and that's
something I have never done (never needed to til now).
I have to decide how I want to proceed.
BTW, before I learned the fuel lines were self bleeding, I cracked a
couple of lines (maybe all of them) to see if I was getting fuel to
the Injectors. I noticed #3 acting different than the others. The
others squirted fuel from the threads (depending on how much I
loosened the injectors) . So so while #3 might be a good place to
start I need to repeat that process to confirm #3 has a weak stream of
fuel.
Let's say I have #3 definitely acting suspiciously - producing a
dribble of fuel after loosening the nuts 1 or 2 full turns - which
ever amount produces a good flow of fuel from the others. If #3 is
showing a reduced amount of fuel getting to the Injector, I assume I
have 2 options : having the Injectors tuned up/serviced as indicated
my Max, or replaced with a rebuilt Injector? Are those my options?
I have to decide how to have the work performed - I may be forced to
R&R the Injectors myself and either install a new one or have this one
tuned up. If that happens I'll need to get a lot more info about what
is involved with R&R'ing the injectors. Plus I'll need to learn
more about the special tools required. But we can address that later.
Larry
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Curley McLain <mailto:126die...@gmail.com>
January 26, 2017 at 6:05 PM
If you have already changed the copper seals, springs and orings, and
it still idles rough, it is time to crack the injector lines and
determine which cyl is weak. You need the heat shields because when
you remove an injector holder, you are supposed to replace the heat
shield (seal) between the injector nozzle and the prechamber. For
diagnosis, you can surely get by with changing the nozzle holders and
leave the old heat shields in. I have done it and seen injection
experts do it too. If you need to clean/adjust/replace and
recalibrate the nozzles, then you definitely put new heat shields in
at that time. If the problem proves to be the IP, then you can buy a
couple of heat shields and replace the ones you messed with.
Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 26, 2017 at 1:48 PM
Thanks Curley,
Which heat shields are you suggesting? (602 engine)
So you think the problem might be in the injector?
I won't do the above til I do the one at a time you mentioned.
Larry
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Curley McLain <mailto:126die...@gmail.com>
January 26, 2017 at 1:26 PM
1. Crack the injector lines at the injector one at a time to determine
which cyl is weak. Make note of the weak cyl number. (Wrap a rag
around the tube to lessen the fuel bath)
2. Buy 2 or more heat shields.
3. swap a strong injector with the weak one.
4. Repeat step 1. a: If the weak cyl moved, get a new set of nozzles
calibrated and install.
b: If the weak cyl is the same, take it
back to the same shop, explain what you did, and tell them they owe
you a rebuilt pump. Install it yourself, or get someone COMPETENT to
install it.
Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 26, 2017 at 12:56 PM
Hi gang,
Dropped the car off at a shop to fix a oil leak. (This may be old
news) The leak was coming from one of the delivery valves. After
replacing the DV O-rings I picked the car up and have had it for about
a week. The leak is gone but the car runs terribly. Like it's
running on 4 cylinders. I bought new o-rings and redid them. No
change. It still runs bad. I re-did the o-rings twice with no
change. Either I'm doing something basic wrong or one of the valves
dropped.
I'm trying to decide what to do next.
Thoughts?
My wife is ready to buy a new car. I plan to call the shop but have
very low expectation of them doing anything.
When this all started I talked to this list and got your advice for
rebuilding the DVs. I followed the procedure sent to me by
Curley. It was a Very straight-forward and easy to follow procedure.
(Thanks again Curley)
I can see the shop doing it wrong, This area isn't big on foreign
cars so the shop who did the work probably works on more Fords and
Chevy's than MBs. wise I can see me doing it wrong once but not
twice! I tend to be pretty careful when working o something like the
Inj,
What to do, what to do......?
Any ideas or thoughts?
LarryT.
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