Good call! I guess I assumed that he had had it vacuumed and filled. 
At HF yesterday I noticed their vacuum pumps were about $100 and $160, and 
their gauge sets were about $60.
IMO he should fix the auxiliary AC fan sometime during the repair and put a 
shroud on the main fan if he can find one because he's going to have problems 
in heavy stop and go traffic if he doesn't, and those problems might include 
engine cooling as well. (That's assuming his '87 acts the same as my '83).
Gerry

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~                            
MG wrote:
> Only one thing that Gerry left out.
> 
> Did you connect a vacuum pump after you put the NEW receiver 
> drier in and a new expansion valve. Each time the compressor 
> quits all the cleaning has to be done and a solid vacuum pulled.
> Living in Florida I run the pump for at least an hour just 
> because I have the time and it helps boil any moisture out of the 
> system. Then close the gauges off and see if the vacuum stays the 
> same after an additional hour. If so then you put the freon in.
> 
> If you didn't do the vacuum then there is air and moisture in 
> there and the new receiver drier is probably dead with moisture 
> right from the beginning.
> 
> archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:
> > Karl Wittnebel wrote:
> >> Pressure goes super high, then the compressor fails. It will cool for about
> >> 30-40 minutes per compressor. Has new evaporator, new expansion valve new
> >> drier, now on compressor #3 (or about to be). Control unit is new. At least
> >> one new pressure hose. All the vac pods are new, as is the dash. Works
> >> great for awhile, then gradually gets warmer over an hour or so, and that's
> >> it.
> >> Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this further? Tired of throwing
> >> compressors at it. Nippodenso units from rock auto, same as original. Of
> >> course the motor is a 606 now.
> >> Thanks
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Has the AC auxiliary fan been coming on?
> > 
> > Did you disconnect all the lines and wash, then blow, them out using AC 
> > solvent from NAPA or elsewhere in the opposite direction from their 
> > direction of flow?
> > 
> > Did you replace the main freon filter/reservoir?
> > 
> > Do you have a set of AC gauges (about $60 at HF)?. If so, what were the 
> > readings when the AC was not working properly? (Carefully learn how the 
> > gauges work so you don't accidentally send high pressure into low pressure 
> > cans of freon and/or the low pressure gauges, which could be very injurious 
> > or fatal).
> > 
> > Which lubricant did you use when you replaced compressors, etc? Did you add 
> > the specified amount? 
> > 
> > Did you add the freon with the can upright or inverted?
> > 
> > If you added the freon using the typical low pressure gauge that comes with 
> > some cans of freon, what was the pressure reading when you finished? 
> > 
> > Did you have a household or shop fan blowing through the radiator and 
> > condenser when you added the freon? Did you have the AC set on max cool and 
> > max fan speed?
> > 
> > What has the temperature been where you live?
> > 
> > There is supposed to an (add-on?) filter that can be installed in the 
> > return line just before the compressor, but I've never heard any discussion 
> > about it on this list, or have seen it listed anywhere. Also, I have no 
> > idea where it would be installed without cutting the return line. This is 
> > supposed to keep the shedded debris from old freon lines from getting in to 
> > the AC pump and other parts.
> > 
> > Which car is this? All my experience has been with an '83 300D and '83 240D.
> > 
> > Most FLAPS have a book on auto AC repair which should give you the correct 
> > amounts of freon and oil to add. The different types of oils should not be 
> > mixed
> > (see the book for a discussion of that.)
> > 
> > It's 2 am here in Florida. Later this AM someone with more knowledge than I 
> > should be able to help you.
> > Good luck,
> > Gerry 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ---
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> > 
> > 
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> > 
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