Good point Max. Mine are off by about .8mm I have a piece of tin I
will make a washer from that is the right thickness. That should point
the diff in the right direction.
More progress today. I have the rear subframe mostly assembled, out
from under the car. It is less the LCAs, springs, axles, differential,
and brake calipers. I decided it was a lot easier to put the parking
brakes together up where it was easier to see things. I turned the
subframe upside down to put in the last spring on each side, on the
bottom. It is very strong and nearly impossible to get in. But I got
them done, them put on the discs. I don't think there is any work left
that is more of a pain than the parking brakes. Monday, the lower
control arms (LCA) are supposed to be done. (New bushings in) By Wed,
I am supposed to have the tool to put new boots on the axle joints.
IN the meantime, I can fit the assembly to the car. Less the LCAs,
axles, differential and brake calipers. All those can be put on while
the rear subframe assembly is on the car. Once the subframe is under
the car, then it will start looking like a car again, not a 2 wheeled
junker.
I used my old method for the P. brake big springs. 2 wraps (loop)of 26
or 28 ga copper wire (salvaged from a dead coil) around the spring hook,
then pry on that to pull the spring while shoving the spring hook into
the slot with the other hand. I still can't see how a cluster hook can
get the hook in behind the brake shoe
I could see something like this working:
C
|_____________] because it would have an offset to get the spring
under the shoe.
A nice thing about the kit from fcp with the 4 links for the rear
suspension: It has all new fasteners. Unfortunately they are all XZN
(triple square) and they are bigger than the Axle bolts. Fortunately,
I had a socket insert for the right size. I am going to try to find a
real socket for them and the axle bolts. My expensive snappy one broke
on the first use, and so far, I can't get snappy to replace it. (cheap
ba$$ turds) I have a whole pile of broken snappy stuff waiting for some
time I can embarrass them into replacing everything. IF HF had the
stupid ZXN sockets, I'd buy em there. (or....sorry Dan, ....even at
maynerds, if they had em)
Meade Dillon via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 8, 2020 at 7:54 AM
Karl, Jaime: what about fine tuning the alignment of the differential,
once
you get to the point of connecting the driveshaft? IIRC, when I swapped
differentials on my 124 last fall, new bushings were supposed to be
installed with a special tool in order to get the differential aimed
directly at the driveshaft so the entire assembly would be straight and (I
assume) minimize flexing at the flex disc and sideways loading on the
bearing at the nose of the differential. I didn't have the special factory
tool, used a Mark 1 Mod 0 Eyeball and calipers, paid attention to
alignment
of the old diff and focused on getting the new diff into the same
position. The fore/aft depth of each bushing can affect the diff
alignment, if they are grossly different.
-------------
Max
Charleston SC
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