Heat rises, so it's not as bad as an uninsulated attic. But having a cold floor 
(and hence, cold feet) can make the room *feel* colder than it is, and you will 
lose some heat to the principle that heat conducts from warmer to colder 
objects.


On Sun, Mar 6, 2022, at 2:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> Neither one of our houses has insulation under the floors and I can't 
> say I have heard of it being done around here.  Might be a good idea though.
>
> On 3/6/2022 1:26 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote:
>> Like Floyd said, or batts with paper backing stapled to the joists, although 
>> the second approach is less desirable because the paper backing can get damp 
>> and fail, allowing the insulation to fall out.
>>
>> With 12” joists, we got somewhere in the area of R-30 to R-40 of insulation 
>> in the floors out of that. I’m not sure what thickness batts they used, I 
>> would have to go back and look at the work order. They also insulated all 
>> exposed pipes as well, since the insulation would reduce heat transmission 
>> from the house and allow the air temperature in the crawl to be closer to 
>> ambient, potentially allowing any exposed (copper) pipes to freeze.
>>
>> I’m still stunned that the place never had insulation in the floor/crawl. It 
>> had to be a frickin’ icebox in the wintertime, or the PO ran the wood stove 
>> full bore 24/7, which would have been pretty expensive with the amount of 
>> wood it consumes.
>>
>> -D
>>
>>> On Mar 6, 2022, at 2:08 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> How do you install insulation in the crawl space? Do they attach it under 
>>> the sun floor between the joists somehow?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Mar 6, 2022, at 12:26 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes 
>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> And make sure your home is as efficient as possible, too.
>>>>
>>>> I’m not discounting the increase in fuel costs by any means, but a lot of 
>>>> times people will only look at the direct expense (of fuel) rather than 
>>>> ways of increasing efficiency.
>>>>
>>>> For example, at the Flagstaff house we had an energy audit done right out 
>>>> of the gate that showed some glaring efficiency issues that we expected 
>>>> based on our survey of the house when we bought it. The house is about 
>>>> 2,000 sf, wood frame construction from 1975 on a crawl space. The floor of 
>>>> the house was not insulated, and never had been since it was built. 
>>>> Blow-in insulation in the attic space was a mess from being moved around 
>>>> during several renovations as well as having settled. In fact, it was so 
>>>> bad in some spots it caused ice dams on the roof that resulted in ceiling 
>>>> damage in one part of the house, yet the PO didn’t do anything about it.
>>>>
>>>> We took an aggressive approach, which wasn’t cheap, but had insulation 
>>>> installed in the floor/crawl space, the attic insulation straightened out 
>>>> and more blown in, and a blower door test done before and after with any 
>>>> and all gaps or leaks addressed.
>>>>
>>>> A new furnace was installed, however, this was a choice on our part due to 
>>>> the age of the existing furnace (28+ years) that was in the mid to upper 
>>>> 90% efficiency range. Windows and doors were already good, so no need to 
>>>> do anything there. While they weren't efficiency considerations, we added 
>>>> air conditioning to the house with the new furnace and a mini-split to an 
>>>> addition that was poorly insulated and conditioned.
>>>>
>>>> Total cost? About $8,000 not including the AC and mini-split. We recovered 
>>>> about $1,000 of those costs in rebates from state, local and Federal 
>>>> rebates and tax credits.
>>>>
>>>> It will take some years to recover the costs, but the real gain is in the 
>>>> level of comfort that exists in the house. Parts of it were colder than 
>>>> heck, and I can’t even begin to imagine what it was like with no 
>>>> insulation in the floor (we had the insulation work done in September.) 
>>>> The PO installed a wood stove, but we never use it as it’s not necessary.
>>>>
>>>> The gas bill last month for heating, water heating (demand water heater) 
>>>> and cooking was $93.00. Coldest month of the year so far, and we keep it 
>>>> at a comfortable 68F during the day while turning it down to 66F at night. 
>>>> Ambients can often get down into the single digits at night in the winter 
>>>> at this location, so having that tight envelope with a solid amount of 
>>>> insulation makes the place very efficient.
>>>>
>>>> For those of us who lived through the energy crunch in the 1970s, the one 
>>>> good thing it did was forced people to look more closely at efficiencies 
>>>> in how we use energy as well as alternatives.
>>>>
>>>> -D
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 6, 2022, at 1:05 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Time to look into alternative heat sources.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 3/6/2022 11:13 AM, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote:
>>>>>> So what about home heating oil? What happens next winter when I have to 
>>>>>> heat my house? At this rate it is doubtful that prices will normalize by 
>>>>>> then and I go through a full 250 gallon tank of oil during the winter 
>>>>>> and that’s keeping the house at 60 degrees on average. If oil hits $8 
>>>>>> per gallon by then which is not a stretch then I will be paying $2000 
>>>>>> per month to heat my house.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mar 6, 2022, at 10:50 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If I am not mistaken, It never got that night the last time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Mar 6, 2022, at 9:10 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes 
>>>>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Did Karl want to start a pool on LA gas prices?
>>>>>>>> $7 a gallon here. I checked and GasBuddy concurs.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> This will not end well.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Rick
>>>>>>> <Screenshot_20220305-191729_Brave.jpg>
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