My son's away visiting his girlfriend across the country, leaving his car here.
While it's not in service I decided to try a few things:

Wednesday, August 23, 2023 <>I removed and took apart the trunk lock. It was 
very corroded and sludgy inside, it looked like there was vaseline packed in 
there. It was the corrosion preventing the key from inserting, some of the 
wafers simply wouldn't slide. The secret to disassembly is the internal 
snap-ring at the back of the lock cylinder, which holds it all together. After 
that it was careful wafer freeing and a minor filing to get the corrosion off 
of the wafers.  I used a lot of brake cleaner to sluice out all the dirt, 
grease, and etc.
Then correct (graphite) lubrication, and reassembly. This all took a lot more 
time than it should have, mostly because of unfamiliarity. The trunk lock works 
much as in older cars, except there is not a mechanical 2-state tab that lets 
the trunk be opened manually when the car is unlocked. On this car that is done 
electro-pneumatically, via the locking system computer. Summary:

The trunk can be locked, mechanically, so that it can only be opened with the 
key, by turning it hard to the right and removing it. (Valet function, you 
remove the mechanical key from the fob and keep it, and give the valet the fob. 
They can't get into either the trunk or the glovebox if those have been locked 
with the key. Also useful if you want to secure the trunk contents against a 
potential thief bashing in a window and using the interior trunk release.)

The trunk can be unlocked, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left, 
reversing the above condition. (The key is spring-loaded and cannot be left in 
that position, it'll move back to the center position afterwards.) The key can 
be removed in the center position, which is 'normal', or the right position, 
which is locked.

The trunk can be opened, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left and 
then pushing in. This will work even if the car is completely dead.

With the lock in the center position, 'normal', the trunk can be opened 
electro-pneumatically, with one of:

Interior switch;

Key fob;

Pushing in the trunk lock, if the car is unlocked.

All of these (4.X) require the car to be 'alive', with no electrical or 
pneumatic faults in the locking system.
This car, at acquisition, could only do the very last two of these. At the 
moment it's only 4.1 that it can't do.
I then removed the interior trunk release switch, by pulling up on the panel. 
Now the reason for the extreme expense of this (also apparently NLA) switch 
became apparent: it is all the switches! Windows, mirror, trunk release, child 
switch, airbag indicator, all in one large assembly. P/N 210 821 39 51. Good 
news, and bad news. Good news: yes, the C330 trunk switch mechanicals I scored 
at the junkyard are the same, right down to the numbers molded into them. Bad 
news: it's the housing, containing the hinge pins, that is broken, not the 
moving parts. The housing is very large and specific to this particular switch 
assembly.

So I got out the Shoe Goo, and started trying to fix the breaks. I'm trying to 
splint the breaks using sheet metal. If there's room for the necessary splints. 
Being a hinge it's a high-stress point, simple glue will not be sufficient.

Thursday, August 24, 2023 <>After some filing the splint works, and the 
pivoting piece can still move. Now for the other side, which is entirely 
missing the plastic double-ended hinge pin. (Broken out of the housing, and 
missing.)
After some thought I got a piece of 12ga copper wire and started hammering it 
down in diameter on one end until it fit into the holes in the pivoting pieces. 
I then cut off a bit of about the right length, and Shoe-Gooed it into place 
centered in the housing. One plastic piece will pivot on the inside nub, and 
one on the outside nub.

Friday, August 25, 2023 <>After some careful filing to make the new copper 
hinge nubs the right length I snapped the two moving plastic pieces of the 
switch into place. Mechanically it seems OK again, though I shall have to 
caution Daniel to be very careful with it, as I'm sure it's not very strong.
I installed it in the car, and it works perfectly. Now all the trunk functions 
are correct.

The S.O.S. switch was broken, and falling down out of the headliner. I cut up a 
large paperclip and used its pieces to secure the flip-down red cover, and to 
secure the switch body into the headliner. Very ghetto, but definitely better 
than before.

I used Goo Gone to clean off the door handles and such that were grimy. A 
little better looking inside.

Three of the jack point covers were in the ashtray, and looking at them I see 
why. The plastic protrusions that hold them in place are broken off. Looking at 
the fourth I can see that it's probably the same, as clear tape is being used 
to hold it in place on the car. I got out the clear packing tape and did the 
same to the others. It looks better with the holes plugged, at least.


My intent is to pick him up at the airport using his car, and to pop the trunk 
from the inside when he walks up.
Surprise!

-- Jim

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