You have to report on his reaction!

Yes, the W210 center (lower) console switches are part of an “assembly” that 
you’ve found everything mounted to. A really lousy design.

As is the trunk release button, which should really be renamed as a “pull”. The 
unusual mechanics required to operate this, along with the two-Mississippi 
delay before it releases, causes the uninformed operator to lift more/harder, 
which ultimately breaks the switch, typically the little pivots the button pins 
rotate on.

-D

> On Aug 25, 2023, at 4:58 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> My son's away visiting his girlfriend across the country, leaving his car 
> here.
> While it's not in service I decided to try a few things:
> 
> Wednesday, August 23, 2023 <>I removed and took apart the trunk lock. It was 
> very corroded and sludgy inside, it looked like there was vaseline packed in 
> there. It was the corrosion preventing the key from inserting, some of the 
> wafers simply wouldn't slide. The secret to disassembly is the internal 
> snap-ring at the back of the lock cylinder, which holds it all together. 
> After that it was careful wafer freeing and a minor filing to get the 
> corrosion off of the wafers.  I used a lot of brake cleaner to sluice out all 
> the dirt, grease, and etc.
> Then correct (graphite) lubrication, and reassembly. This all took a lot more 
> time than it should have, mostly because of unfamiliarity. The trunk lock 
> works much as in older cars, except there is not a mechanical 2-state tab 
> that lets the trunk be opened manually when the car is unlocked. On this car 
> that is done electro-pneumatically, via the locking system computer. Summary:
> 
> The trunk can be locked, mechanically, so that it can only be opened with the 
> key, by turning it hard to the right and removing it. (Valet function, you 
> remove the mechanical key from the fob and keep it, and give the valet the 
> fob. They can't get into either the trunk or the glovebox if those have been 
> locked with the key. Also useful if you want to secure the trunk contents 
> against a potential thief bashing in a window and using the interior trunk 
> release.)
> 
> The trunk can be unlocked, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left, 
> reversing the above condition. (The key is spring-loaded and cannot be left 
> in that position, it'll move back to the center position afterwards.) The key 
> can be removed in the center position, which is 'normal', or the right 
> position, which is locked.
> 
> The trunk can be opened, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left 
> and then pushing in. This will work even if the car is completely dead.
> 
> With the lock in the center position, 'normal', the trunk can be opened 
> electro-pneumatically, with one of:
> 
> Interior switch;
> 
> Key fob;
> 
> Pushing in the trunk lock, if the car is unlocked.
> 
> All of these (4.X) require the car to be 'alive', with no electrical or 
> pneumatic faults in the locking system.
> This car, at acquisition, could only do the very last two of these. At the 
> moment it's only 4.1 that it can't do.
> I then removed the interior trunk release switch, by pulling up on the panel. 
> Now the reason for the extreme expense of this (also apparently NLA) switch 
> became apparent: it is all the switches! Windows, mirror, trunk release, 
> child switch, airbag indicator, all in one large assembly. P/N 210 821 39 51. 
> Good news, and bad news. Good news: yes, the C330 trunk switch mechanicals I 
> scored at the junkyard are the same, right down to the numbers molded into 
> them. Bad news: it's the housing, containing the hinge pins, that is broken, 
> not the moving parts. The housing is very large and specific to this 
> particular switch assembly.
> 
> So I got out the Shoe Goo, and started trying to fix the breaks. I'm trying 
> to splint the breaks using sheet metal. If there's room for the necessary 
> splints. Being a hinge it's a high-stress point, simple glue will not be 
> sufficient.
> 
> Thursday, August 24, 2023 <>After some filing the splint works, and the 
> pivoting piece can still move. Now for the other side, which is entirely 
> missing the plastic double-ended hinge pin. (Broken out of the housing, and 
> missing.)
> After some thought I got a piece of 12ga copper wire and started hammering it 
> down in diameter on one end until it fit into the holes in the pivoting 
> pieces. I then cut off a bit of about the right length, and Shoe-Gooed it 
> into place centered in the housing. One plastic piece will pivot on the 
> inside nub, and one on the outside nub.
> 
> Friday, August 25, 2023 <>After some careful filing to make the new copper 
> hinge nubs the right length I snapped the two moving plastic pieces of the 
> switch into place. Mechanically it seems OK again, though I shall have to 
> caution Daniel to be very careful with it, as I'm sure it's not very strong.
> I installed it in the car, and it works perfectly. Now all the trunk 
> functions are correct.
> 
> The S.O.S. switch was broken, and falling down out of the headliner. I cut up 
> a large paperclip and used its pieces to secure the flip-down red cover, and 
> to secure the switch body into the headliner. Very ghetto, but definitely 
> better than before.
> 
> I used Goo Gone to clean off the door handles and such that were grimy. A 
> little better looking inside.
> 
> Three of the jack point covers were in the ashtray, and looking at them I see 
> why. The plastic protrusions that hold them in place are broken off. Looking 
> at the fourth I can see that it's probably the same, as clear tape is being 
> used to hold it in place on the car. I got out the clear packing tape and did 
> the same to the others. It looks better with the holes plugged, at least.
> 
> 
> My intent is to pick him up at the airport using his car, and to pop the 
> trunk from the inside when he walks up.
> Surprise!
> 
> -- Jim
> 
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