At last - someone who knows what he's talking about!
If this '79 is like our US-issue '76, the manual system has a vacuum-controlled water valve. When either heat lever is lifted off of MIN, a vacuum bleed valve is opened up resulting in the water valve actuator being released, letting hot water go through (both sides) of the heater core. Air blend flaps are then used to modulate the temperatures on both sides. > The local indie quoted him ~$600 to > fix the problem, which seems to be a bit ridiculous if it's just a > mono-valve. Any thoughts? I'd likely charge more, if the problem requires new vacuum valves or anything like that, because the console has to come out. (Which requires the seats to come out first, etc.) With luck it's just a broken water valve dingus, which is trivial to replace under the hood. Oh, and the adjustment levers have tightening screws on their pivots, IIRC, if they come loose the lever moves without moving the air blend flaps, and I suppose the vacuum valve too. That's just a nut to tighten, it may be that this can be done from the front with the console in place. (You'll have to remove the HVAC face panel, of course.) -- Jim
-- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
