Whatever you use, it will peel to some degree.  My bud just bought a similar 
aircraft hanger, acid etched the concrete and epoxied it. There is some peeling 
just the same.  But it's still mostly very nice.

From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]; [email protected]; 
[email protected]
Subject: RE: EXTERNAL: Re: Wally's future Garage-Mahal [air line set up]
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:00:00 +0000










Good info!  Thanks Tony!
 
UPDATE – Put an offer in on a place with an existing 30w x 40d building.  
Drywalled and insulated, with a ceiling mounted NG heater, and dedicated 220v 
electrical
 service.  Is going to need rework of the lights (got that covered), additional 
outlets (that one is easy – more!) and air (good info below!)..
 
The building is in nice shape, built in 2000.  The one last area not discussed 
is the floor, it needs paint/sealing.  What options have/would you guys used
 to seal up 10 year old concrete?  It has some existing peeling paint on it 
that needs to go.  Initially I think some sort of DIY epoxy, but am curious 
what you guys have successfully done.  Thoughts?
 
Wallyman
 


From: [email protected] 
[mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Tony Cooper

Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 9:24 PM

To: Bruce Labitt; [email protected]

Subject: Re: EXTERNAL: Re: Wally's future Garage-Mahal [air line set up]


 
Rapid Air Fittings.  The rating on my kit was 150 PSI.  I have my air regulated 
at 135PSI and 95PSI Oiled.



The manifold and station hardware are well machined high quality pieces.



The 3/4" kit is rated at 175 PSI and is found here.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023



The fittings are easily used, just make a clean cut on the tubing and push into 
the fitting.  To release a fitting simply depress the black ring and pull the 
tubing out.



Very easy to reconfigure. There are many fitting types available - go here to 
see

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/


Find best prices simply by googling "rapidair"



Parker fitings are said to wrk as well.  Here is the Parker catalog for the 
global air fittings:

http://www.parker.com/literature/Bra...ts/3501-GC.pdf



You can get a 1/2" Parker Tee for under $3. 





On 10/15/2011 12:27 PM, Bruce Labitt wrote: 
Do you use standard compression fittings with this tubing? Or just the RapidAir 
fittings? I'll keep this in mind if I need to redo the air plumbing. I'm sure 
it was easier to do nylon, than iron.




When you have a pipe threader - everything can be solved with threaded pipe :-) 
, and a quick trip to the hardware store.




-Bruce 



On 10/15/2011 11:48 AM, Larry Alster wrote: 




20100 

1/2” Nylon Tubing 

Sold in 100 ft. roll. 

Working Pressure 150 PSI 

Temperature Range: -40O to +180o F 









Larry Alster 



91 Miata  White Knight 

92 Miata  Silver Bullet 

92 Miata  Honey B 

04 MSM MX-5 Whooosh 

06 WRX STi Subie 



-----Original Message----- 

From: [email protected]


[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt


Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 10:37 AM 

To: [email protected] 

Subject: Re: EXTERNAL: Re: Wally's future Garage-Mahal [air line set up] 



Following the northern tool link, I found this "Rated up to 

150 PSI and 70°F"  That doesn't seem good.  Is that a typo? 

Other than that, it seems like a nice setup. 



I used black iron pipe for my garage.  (Not expensive, ~ 

$1.16/ft from the big box stores) A cheap threader from 

Harbor Freight and a hacksaw is all you need plus a handful 

of couplers and tees.  Valves are readily available.  All 

the parts are available from your local hardware store or 

big box store.  Working Pressure capability is 217 PSI at 

400F for 3/4" schedule 40 pipe.  If you can't thread this 

small diameter pipe, (3/4 or 1/2") then you probably don't 

have the chops to work on cars ;)  JMHO.  My setup only took 

me part of an afternoon to do. 



Only problem with black iron is that you have to plan it out 

in advance.  Retrofitting black iron plumbing is harder (not 

impossible) than using nylon. 



-Bruce 



On 10/14/2011 1:42 PM, Tony Cooper wrote: 




I just installed my air system in my garage.  PVC is 

simply dangerous - shrapnel ripping through sheet rock 30' 

away was enough to dissuade me.  PVC will appear to be 

fine until it brittles up with age and then lets loose on 

you unexpectedly. 



I have a friend who used PEX and his installation looks 

great.  The problem with PEX is that it degrades rapidly 

when exposed to UV light.  If you can keep it dark it will 

work great.  That means behind sheet rock or insulated. 



I ended up going with two of these RapidAir kits from 

Northern Tools plus a few other pieces for added drops. 

System was simple to install, it does not leak, (when 

installed correctly) and is easily modified.  I have 6 

total drops + hard connected retractable air hose and 

sandblaster cabinet. 



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525












While it is only 1/2" OD (3/8" ID) I pulled a loop around 

the perimeter of the garage effectively giving me 3/4" 

delivery to my feeds.  I installed 2 regulators, the 

master one set at 135 PSI, and the 2nd one feeds a loop 

set at 95 PSI with an auto oiler for air tools.  The 

system works well enough to drive my Sandblaster box at 

100% duty cycle.  I installed a Ingersoll Rand TSN45 2 

stage 80 gal 5 HP compressor good for 16CFM  at 135 PSI. 



I am happy with the results. 



Tony 



On 10/13/2011 7:17 PM, Dennis Hale wrote: 




Impact resistance is another problem. PVC under pressure 

when I let something fly around was the final reason I 

went ahead and used copper. I also sometimes pull on a 

line enough to bend the copper, PVC wouldn't like that. I 

wish I had done the main lines in 3/4 instead of 1/2 though. 

Dennis Hale 





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