This may be a repeat message. if so I apologise. 

Oso did a great job explaining the application of alternators in hydro systems. 
I am familiar with about a dozen systems using alternators and can confirm that 
most have the regulators disabled/bypassed in favour of a Xantrex C40/C60's in 
diversion mode. A few use permag alternators or rewound (for slow speed) 
alternators. However the latter also use diversion controls on the output.

Rob




Quoting oso954 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- Manfred:
> 
> 
> 
> You are attempting to draw on your car experience (watching a 
> 
> voltmeter) and trying predict how the alternator will react in a 
> 
> totally different usage. You would have a much better understanding 
> 
> if you were watching a bi-directional amp meter.
> 
> 
> 
> You stated "I fear that a 70A alternator running at half its rated 
> 
> speed will definitiley NOT produce 50-55A, but rather will end up 
> 
> with insufficient voltage to put ANY current at all into the battery 
> 
> bank! It depends on the specific alternator, of course, but if it's 
> 
> rated at 6000rpm, I would not count on it being usable at all at 
> 
> 3000!"
> 
> 
> 
> If you go to:
> 
> http://www.balmar.net/PDF/Alternator%20Drawings/60-
> 
> seriesdimensionaldrawing.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> They have a wonderful drawing of their alternators in various 
> 
> amperage ratings. In The lower left hand corner are the output curves 
> 
> for them. The lowest line is their 70 amp alternator (also shown are 
> 
> 100, 120 and 150 amp alternators) 
> 
> You have to interpolate between the lines, but at alternator rpm (not 
> 
> engine rpm) their 70 amp can produce about 32 amps at 1800 rpm, about 
> 
> 38 amps at 2000, about 60 amps at 3,000, and finally reaches 70 amps 
> 
> at 5,000 rpm. This is a fairly typical curve for many alternators.  
> 
> To me, it is ridiculous to spin the alternator the extra 2000 rpm to 
> 
> pick up 10 amps, in this example. That extra 2000 rpm will 
> 
> significantly cut down the brush life.
> 
> 
> 
> Note that this is what the alternator can do at those rpms, not what 
> 
> the regulator is telling it to do at any given moment.  
> 
> 
> 
> "The regulator in a car alternator is designed precisely to fully 
> 
> charge 12V batteries. Typically, the alternator output is regulated 
> 
> to 14.4V or thereabout."
> 
> 
> 
> It is not designed precisely to fully charge 12V batteries. It is 
> 
> designed to fully charge ONE 12V battery of a specific size. It will 
> 
> vary the current based on the current state of charge of the battery, 
> 
> to recharge it as rapidly as possible without doing harm. Higher 
> 
> current rates used when the battery is in a lower state of charge. 
> 
> Lower current rates when the battery is at a high percentage of 
> 
> charge and is being "topped off".  
> 
> 
> 
> The regulator for a specific car will be based on the amp hour 
> 
> capacity of the battery that the manufacturer puts in the car.   The 
> 
> Toyota Camry comes with  a 65 amp hour battery. So if we are talking 
> 
> about bringing the battery from 95% to 100 percent charge and doing 
> 
> it at a 10 percent rate, the regulator will instruct the alternator 
> 
> to deliver 6.5 amps to the battery. It doesn't matter what speed the 
> 
> engine/alternator is turning at, that is all that will be delivered, 
> 
> because that is a nice slow rate to top off the battery.  5 percent 
> 
> of a 65 amp hour battery is 3.25 amp hours, the 6.5 rate will have it 
> 
> fully charged in half an hour. 
> 
> 
> 
> When you take that same alternator/ regulator and couple it to a 650 
> 
> amp hour battery (or 10 batteries of 65 amp hours wired in parallel) 
> 
> the regulator cannot tell the difference. You are now 32.5 amp hours 
> 
> away from full and trying to fill it at 6.5 amps. It will take 5 
> 
> hours of charging without any additional draw on the system to bring 
> 
> the battery to 100 percent.  And because you are filling it at 6.5 
> 
> amps, you are not generating the additional 30 plus amps that you 
> 
> could be generating with a smarter regulator, or one better sized for 
> 
> your battery bank. 
> 
> 
> 
> One solution is disable the internal regulator (or remove it ) and 
> 
> use another regulator or controller that is more appropriate for the 
> 
> larger battery bank. Another option is to lock the regulator into a 
> 
> 100 percent charge rate and then use a dump load controller and dump 
> 
> load to burn the excess generation beyond that which will fit into 
> 
> your battery bank and current usage at the moment.  There are 
> 
> additional solutions, but those require an accurate picture of the 
> 
> loads on the system and time of use. 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I hope that this explanation helps.
> 
> Oso
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