Instead of being cranky you should have posted your "very simple, very
readable smtpd.conf file".
This is what a catchall email address looks like and this is a very
simple and reasonable to expect this to function.
An alias file has never accepted an @. It is therefore not at all
reasonable to expect it to function. IIRC even with Postfix you will
need a virtual map.
Also, FWIW, I am on attempt number four of cramming virtusers into my
setup that doesn't need it ... and failing. My five minute task of
adding a catchall email is in hour number four and it still doesn't work.
--> Why ? <--
Because you didn't exchanged one keyword for another? We will never know.