A new rear wheel drive vw? I don't even find much in the way of a google search with those words. Was that a typo?
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 3:47 PM, Matthew Yip <[email protected]> wrote: > Josh reminds me that the Blues are brutal on rotors. The HT-10a are easier > on rotors but they're still not what I'd call "rotor friendly". > > Good brake pads are expensive - there isn't a way around that. Having said > that though, be thankful you don't own the newest version of the RWD Beetle > - pads for those cara are in the $300+ range. > > - Matthew - > > On Jun 25, 2012, at 11:24, Chad Rebuck <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Thanks Matthew, > > > > My gli is a street car, but I don't really drive it a great deal anymore. > > I have managed to rack up 4000 miles since finishing the engine rebuild > > last September :) > > > > Wow, I checked out the price of the dtc-30 pads and they are just over > $100 > > for the front. Last set of mintex redbox pads I bought cost me $70 for > all > > 4 wheels. I'll give the dtc-30 a try at the next event though. > > > > On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 10:57 PM, Matthew Yip <[email protected]> wrote: > > > >> Careful when mentioning my name and weighing in - fat Asian guys could > >> take offense...<G> > >> > >> Oil temps sound about right - my 16v (with a smallish Mocal cooler) are > in > >> the 270 range after a 30-45 minute session with Mobil 1 5W-30 oil. I > agree > >> with Josh - so long as you're using a synthetic oil, oil temps, are less > >> critical. My coolant temps sky-rocket on the track though and I can't > >> figure out why - I have a replacement radiator to install but haven't > had a > >> chance to do that yet (or even race in 2012 but that's another issue). > >> > >> I don't have any experience with Mintex other than an old set of > >> Metal-Munchers that deliminated and another set of Red Box(?) that > lasted > >> 15 minutes before going the way of the dinosaurs. The GLi has 10.1s, > IIRC. > >> The GTI has 9.4s and I'm running Hawk HT-10s on my GTi because they work > >> in a higher temperature range than the Blue. For the GLi, Hawk produces > >> the DTC-30. I don't have experience with them but have heard they are > >> excellent. We run 20 lap races which are 30-45 min in length - with the > >> Blue pads, I'd encounter fading about half-way thru a race - the HT-10s > >> have a similar feel from start to finish which helps build confidence > >> although I still hold that the brakes are on the car in front of me ;) > >> > >> Chad - your idea of using an aggressive front pad combined with a lesser > >> rear pad is fine. I've been doing that for years and find that the best > >> rear pads are the Auto Zone "$19.99" (or cheaper) junk organic pads. > >> Granted, your GLi has more weight in the rear than my GTi, the reality > is > >> that the vast majority of the weight in these cars is over the front > wheels > >> - under heavy braking, the suspension unloads the rear and the wheels > lock > >> up, even with heavy front springs to control the dive. I've tried > >> everything short of re-plumbing the brake lines for a manual > proportioning > >> valve and it's just part of driving an FWD car. I have a competitor > whose > >> comment was "I NEVER look for your brake lights but when I see tyre > smoke, > >> I KNOW you're braking". When my crew guy, Brian, started racing (in my > >> car), I watched him in a few turns - he'd ask "How'd it look? I was > >> braking like mad". My initial reply was "You're not braking hard > enough - > >> no smoke". > >> > >> Forgive my ignorance - I've read so many threads, many of them on > VWVortex > >> which has certainly lowered my IQ to "vegatative" - is your GLi a street > >> car or a track toy? If it's not a frequently used car, I'd suggest > >> removing the front brake backing plates to enhance air flow. See how > that > >> works along with better pads - you may want to build ducts but there's > not > >> much room to work with since the car is FWD. My car had ducts but they > >> "fell off" a few years ago and they never were rebuilt. When they were > >> functional, I was using Blue pads so they were helpful but after the > change > >> to HT-10 and no ducts, I don't know that they're mandatory. > >> > >> Matthew (crawling back under my rock) > >> > >> > >>> ________________________________ > >>> From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > >>> To: Chad Rebuck <[email protected]>; a2-16v < > >> [email protected]> > >>> Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:09 PM > >>> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Oil temp / brakes at the track > >>> > >>> I wouldn't be so worried with the oil temps as long as you're using > >> synthetic oil. > >>> > >>> Real track pads make all the difference in the world. The gli is a > >> fairly light car, so you don't need a super aggressive pad choice. > Maybe > >> Matt yip can weigh in there. I used hawk dtc70's in my ls1 944, but > those > >> would be total overkill for you... > >>> > >>> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! > >>> > >>> ----- Reply message ----- > >>> From: "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> > >>> Date: Sun, Jun 24, 2012 12:40 pm > >>> Subject: [a2-16v-list] Oil temp / brakes at the track > >>> To: "a2-16v" <[email protected]> > >>> > >>> I took my 16v turbo Jetta to the track yesterday and saw oil temps > >>> around 280 nearing the end of the 15 - 20 min sessions. I'm running a > >>> full synthetic and also have an external oil cooler. On the highway > >>> the temps are about 200 just for reference. My brakes were feeling a > >>> bit weak nearing the end of each session and my stomach was feeling > >>> uneasy so it was no problem for me to take a break when oil temps got > >>> this high. > >>> > >>> I put about 100 miles on the car at the track and 1/2 the front pads > >>> are gone. Brakes are stock except for stainless lines, ate super blue > >>> fluid, and minted redbox pads. I may try a set of track pads and new > >>> rotors just for track use next time to see if they grab better when > >>> hot. Any suggestions on pads to use? I was planning on only swapping > >>> front pads/rotors at the track next time (leaving the rear alone). Is > >>> that a problem? > >>> > >>> What oil temp is too high? I could go with a bigger oil cooler if > >>> necessary but the coolant temp was between 1/2 and 3/4 on the gauge > >>> already so maybe I'd need to beef up the coolant capability too if I > >>> wanted to stay on the track longer each session. > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> a2-16v-list mailing list > >>> [email protected] > >>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> a2-16v-list mailing list > >>> [email protected] > >>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> a2-16v-list mailing list > >> [email protected] > >> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > a2-16v-list mailing list > > [email protected] > > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > _______________________________________________ > a2-16v-list mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > _______________________________________________ a2-16v-list mailing list [email protected] http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
