The RWD Beetle is called a 911...
>________________________________ > From: Chad Rebuck <[email protected]> >To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list <[email protected]> >Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 4:08 PM >Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Oil temp / brakes at the track > >A new rear wheel drive vw? I don't even find much in the way of a google >search with those words. Was that a typo? > >On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 3:47 PM, Matthew Yip <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Josh reminds me that the Blues are brutal on rotors. The HT-10a are easier >> on rotors but they're still not what I'd call "rotor friendly". >> >> Good brake pads are expensive - there isn't a way around that. Having said >> that though, be thankful you don't own the newest version of the RWD Beetle >> - pads for those cara are in the $300+ range. >> >> - Matthew - >> >> On Jun 25, 2012, at 11:24, Chad Rebuck <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> > Thanks Matthew, >> > >> > My gli is a street car, but I don't really drive it a great deal anymore. >> > I have managed to rack up 4000 miles since finishing the engine rebuild >> > last September :) >> > >> > Wow, I checked out the price of the dtc-30 pads and they are just over >> $100 >> > for the front. Last set of mintex redbox pads I bought cost me $70 for >> all >> > 4 wheels. I'll give the dtc-30 a try at the next event though. >> > >> > On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 10:57 PM, Matthew Yip <[email protected]> wrote: >> > >> >> Careful when mentioning my name and weighing in - fat Asian guys could >> >> take offense...<G> >> >> >> >> Oil temps sound about right - my 16v (with a smallish Mocal cooler) are >> in >> >> the 270 range after a 30-45 minute session with Mobil 1 5W-30 oil. I >> agree >> >> with Josh - so long as you're using a synthetic oil, oil temps, are less >> >> critical. My coolant temps sky-rocket on the track though and I can't >> >> figure out why - I have a replacement radiator to install but haven't >> had a >> >> chance to do that yet (or even race in 2012 but that's another issue). >> >> >> >> I don't have any experience with Mintex other than an old set of >> >> Metal-Munchers that deliminated and another set of Red Box(?) that >> lasted >> >> 15 minutes before going the way of the dinosaurs. The GLi has 10.1s, >> IIRC. >> >> The GTI has 9.4s and I'm running Hawk HT-10s on my GTi because they work >> >> in a higher temperature range than the Blue. For the GLi, Hawk produces >> >> the DTC-30. I don't have experience with them but have heard they are >> >> excellent. We run 20 lap races which are 30-45 min in length - with the >> >> Blue pads, I'd encounter fading about half-way thru a race - the HT-10s >> >> have a similar feel from start to finish which helps build confidence >> >> although I still hold that the brakes are on the car in front of me ;) >> >> >> >> Chad - your idea of using an aggressive front pad combined with a lesser >> >> rear pad is fine. I've been doing that for years and find that the best >> >> rear pads are the Auto Zone "$19.99" (or cheaper) junk organic pads. >> >> Granted, your GLi has more weight in the rear than my GTi, the reality >> is >> >> that the vast majority of the weight in these cars is over the front >> wheels >> >> - under heavy braking, the suspension unloads the rear and the wheels >> lock >> >> up, even with heavy front springs to control the dive. I've tried >> >> everything short of re-plumbing the brake lines for a manual >> proportioning >> >> valve and it's just part of driving an FWD car. I have a competitor >> whose >> >> comment was "I NEVER look for your brake lights but when I see tyre >> smoke, >> >> I KNOW you're braking". When my crew guy, Brian, started racing (in my >> >> car), I watched him in a few turns - he'd ask "How'd it look? I was >> >> braking like mad". My initial reply was "You're not braking hard >> enough - >> >> no smoke". >> >> >> >> Forgive my ignorance - I've read so many threads, many of them on >> VWVortex >> >> which has certainly lowered my IQ to "vegatative" - is your GLi a street >> >> car or a track toy? If it's not a frequently used car, I'd suggest >> >> removing the front brake backing plates to enhance air flow. See how >> that >> >> works along with better pads - you may want to build ducts but there's >> not >> >> much room to work with since the car is FWD. My car had ducts but they >> >> "fell off" a few years ago and they never were rebuilt. When they were >> >> functional, I was using Blue pads so they were helpful but after the >> change >> >> to HT-10 and no ducts, I don't know that they're mandatory. >> >> >> >> Matthew (crawling back under my rock) >> >> >> >> >> >>> ________________________________ >> >>> From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> >> >>> To: Chad Rebuck <[email protected]>; a2-16v < >> >> [email protected]> >> >>> Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:09 PM >> >>> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Oil temp / brakes at the track >> >>> >> >>> I wouldn't be so worried with the oil temps as long as you're using >> >> synthetic oil. >> >>> >> >>> Real track pads make all the difference in the world. The gli is a >> >> fairly light car, so you don't need a super aggressive pad choice. >> Maybe >> >> Matt yip can weigh in there. I used hawk dtc70's in my ls1 944, but >> those >> >> would be total overkill for you... >> >>> >> >>> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! >> >>> >> >>> ----- Reply message ----- >> >>> From: "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> >> >>> Date: Sun, Jun 24, 2012 12:40 pm >> >>> Subject: [a2-16v-list] Oil temp / brakes at the track >> >>> To: "a2-16v" <[email protected]> >> >>> >> >>> I took my 16v turbo Jetta to the track yesterday and saw oil temps >> >>> around 280 nearing the end of the 15 - 20 min sessions. I'm running a >> >>> full synthetic and also have an external oil cooler. On the highway >> >>> the temps are about 200 just for reference. My brakes were feeling a >> >>> bit weak nearing the end of each session and my stomach was feeling >> >>> uneasy so it was no problem for me to take a break when oil temps got >> >>> this high. >> >>> >> >>> I put about 100 miles on the car at the track and 1/2 the front pads >> >>> are gone. Brakes are stock except for stainless lines, ate super blue >> >>> fluid, and minted redbox pads. I may try a set of track pads and new >> >>> rotors just for track use next time to see if they grab better when >> >>> hot. Any suggestions on pads to use? I was planning on only swapping >> >>> front pads/rotors at the track next time (leaving the rear alone). Is >> >>> that a problem? >> >>> >> >>> What oil temp is too high? I could go with a bigger oil cooler if >> >>> necessary but the coolant temp was between 1/2 and 3/4 on the gauge >> >>> already so maybe I'd need to beef up the coolant capability too if I >> >>> wanted to stay on the track longer each session. >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> >>> a2-16v-list mailing list >> >>> [email protected] >> >>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> >>> a2-16v-list mailing list >> >>> [email protected] >> >>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> a2-16v-list mailing list >> >> [email protected] >> >> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> > a2-16v-list mailing list >> > [email protected] >> > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> _______________________________________________ >> a2-16v-list mailing list >> [email protected] >> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> >_______________________________________________ >a2-16v-list mailing list >[email protected] >http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > > > _______________________________________________ a2-16v-list mailing list [email protected] http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
