Ah, so there IS a high/low oil pressure buzzer. One of the first things I did after purchasing my '92 GTI 16V back in '94, was to remove the relay that has a little speaker in the top that is responsible for the door ajar/seat belt not fastened chime. I bet that same device is used for the oil pressure audible alerts. I have always hated it when I intentionally leave a car door open with the key in the ignition, and the damn thing insistantly dings away at me. With all the electronic nannys incorporated into new vehicles, I would surely be driven insane. At least with the OBDII port allowing you to tap into the various computers in all new vehicles, you can disable some or all of those electronic irritants. Oh, and another thing I did first off, was remove the relay that prevents the car from starting unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Long about the time that" feature" was first introduced, I had a mechanic friend of mine tell me that starting a car while the clutch is engaged puts over a hundred pounds of pressure on the end of the crank shaft, thus putting a whole lot of pressure against the thrust washer/bearing, while there is no oil pressure. Not a good thing if a looking for long engine life. Which brings up another possibility for explaining the issues this guy is experiencing. If the crank has developed a bunch of end play, that could explain the noises, as well as the shavings he's seeing. To check for this, first take a heavy soft faced mallet and smack the crank damper a few times towards the transmission. Then use a large pry bar between the damper and the timing cover and pry the crank away from the transmission. If it moves more than about .1", that would indicate that the crank shaft thrust bearing is worn, or completely destroyed. Just for reference, the usual spec for crank end play when assembling a new engine, is between .04 - .08", depending on the specific engine. The saga continues...
~Holland On Dec 26, 2015 07:58, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> wrote: > Agreed that there are multiple issues. > > Most likely the noise from the drive belts is the insulator on the water > pump pulley that, in OE configuration, ran 2 different pulleys for 2 > belts. The pulleys were insulated from each other with a piece of cloth > that wears over time allowing the pulleys to wobble slightly and create all > kinds of noise. The other issue could be the crank pulley - either the > harmonic balancer or the pulley set. What often happens is that the > harmonic balancer loosens up with age and it starts to wobble which damages > the crank nose. > > With regards to the oil pressure buzzer - that buzzer sounds for both high > and low pressure. Unless you're running a gauge, it's a guess as to > whether the issue is high or low pressure. I don't remember if pulling the > leads will disable the buzzer but that's a good start - if I only could > remember which sensor is which... > > The IM bearing is a sealed unit - I haven't had one fail but that doesn't > mean it hasn't happened. What colour are the shavings? If they're shiny, > chances are that they're metal but hopefully they're just plastic bits - > from what I recall, the lower front cover on my car had a hole in it from > the harmonic balancer. It wasn't detrimental nor even audible, just > annoying. > > > On Friday, December 25, 2015 2:07 PM, "jlagn...@massed.net" < > jlagn...@massed.net> wrote: > > > You can use a mechanic's stethoscope, large screwdriver, large extension, > or a hose to isolate the source of the sounds. > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> > *To: *mk2-16v@googlegroups.com > *Sent: *Friday, December 25, 2015 12:43:31 PM > *Subject: *Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started > loping, and screeching noises in engine bay > > I was thinking the same thing. But with the symptoms he's reporting, the > possibilities are numerous. Since the engine starts and runs, I would be > looking at the rotating ancilliaries. > Do any of the pulleys wobble? Since it sounds like someone removed the > A/C, they may have messed up something with the v-belt system, depending on > exactly how they removed the A/C compressor. Like did they leave all the > pulleys in place, except the one on the compressor itself? As I recall, the > A/C drive belt is a wider, heavier duty belt than the rest. Then I wonder > if the power steering pump and water pump are turning freely. If one of > those is frozen, or partially locked up, that could be a problem. As I > mentioned before, trying to trouble shoot this via textual description is > nigh on impossible. If any of one of our more knowledgeable members is > located geographically close to this guy, maybe we could be of more help. > ~Holland > On Dec 25, 2015 09:14, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote: > > One idea I thought might be part of the problem. Check that the timing > belt tensioner is good. When those bearings go bad, it can make a lot of > noise (buzzer?) It can also compromise timing which would make the motor > run badly, especially if the belt jumped a tooth. Just a thought > Les > On Dec 25, 2015 8:27 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> > wrote: > > Another thing you could do that may help to identify the source of the > problem is take a magnet, like one of those extendable magnetic retrievers, > and see if it picks up the metallic shavings you mentioned. If they're non > magnetic, then it may indicate that something is rubbing against the head. > Just a suggestion... > ~Holland > On Dec 24, 2015 23:29, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > sorry this car has a 16v motor. i have been driving it for a couple > months so the noise and loping is definately different and made me want to > shut the car off. > > no ac hardware installed i think somebody yanked it and did things the > wrong way. > > i got a bently manual and assume i will have to break things down to > check, i guess i was just looking for some real world experience. > > i just assumed something was getting jammed up in a way to put load on the > timing belt side to make it lope at idle. but that coupled with the oil > light and shavings near the im shaft makes me fear its the engine side. i > can't even move a pulley when tugging by hand right now. > > i had a diesel vacuum pump sieze up once and stopped the im shaft dead. > you could hear the belt screeching, oil light went off and you could smell > the belt. that was the craziest thing i have ever seen, was using a rotary > type and the gear shaved grooves into the cover. > > > after i got it towed home last night i had to start it and move it onto > the driveway. started and ran as normal with no oil pressure light but i > didn't want to warm it up. wasn't loping but all the clattery > racket/scratching can be heard especially after stabbing the throttle and > letting off. > > > > On Thursday, December 24, 2015 at 10:35:01 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote: > > The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the oil > pump. If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The 16v > dizzy runs off the cam. > Does it have A/C? > > > > On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > I'm new to these cars. I got one of these a few months ago and planned on > using it as a project to restore for fun. I have been driving it as is > because it worked. I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect > but it was getting me around ok with no funky noises. > > Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure oil > buzzer constantly started going off. I heard a racket of screeches and > clunks in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed. So too > many wierd things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i > probably ran the car about a minute after before turning it off. just > putting my safety first because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a > motor. > > i had to work and came back to cold car. i have good fluids and started > it up for a bit. it ran with just the hint of stumbling although i don't > know if these cars typically do that while warming up. it wasn't loping > the same. i reved it and didn't get the light to come on but noticed the > racket sounded like its on the drive belt system. while engine was running > only odd thing i noticed is shavings i think near the intermediate shaft > from the lower plastic timing belt cover. couldn't quite tell if another > pully was actually touching it. > > im i correct to assume that if something in vbelt system dragged all it > would do is slow down the timing belt, but that would still turn the im > shaft without interference? > > is it possible a pulley wobbled its way into the im shaft and held it up? > i sure didn't smell smoking timing belt and will have to look closer. it > has power steering, alternator, water pump with 2 vbelts. > > or maybe something bad happned inside engine with oil pump or the im > bearings and the pulley side is worn and walking out and hitting? > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "MK2-16v" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af959f0b-50cd-474c-917b-f978104e7adb%40googlegroups.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af959f0b-50cd-474c-917b-f978104e7adb%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > For more options, visit 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