Hi David,
I understand what you are saying but the symptom of a failing master cylinder
is that the biting point moves further to the floor with every action then
gradually recovers if you leave the clutch pedal "up". If you put the clutch
pedal down and engage first gear but don't move off but just hold the pedal
down the clutch will eventually start to engage and the car will move away or
stall. A worn out clutch plate does the reverse, i.e. the biting point gets
further from the floor. What we are trying to establish is whether your problem
is with the clutch actuation or the plate itself and these tend to give
opposite symptoms. A failing master cylinder (or slave cylinder for that matter
but, in that case you would have a fluid leak) will give a clutch which doesn't
fully release. This means a biting point close to the floor and, probably,
stiff gear engagement. A worn out clutch will not fully engage. The biting
point will be high and the clutch will slip - hence the "stall test".
Another possibility if the biting point is consistent but has moved "longer" is
that you have excessive free play somewhere in the release mechanism. You need
to get under the car and watch the release arm as somebody presses the pedal.
Is there any adjustment on the slave cylinder pushrod? Or in the peadal
mechanism somewhere?
All the best,
Rob Hill
----- Original Message -----
From: David Jones
To: mogtalk2
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] Clutch Issues
Rob
Apart from the pedal travel the clutch is behaving normally........and before
anyone asks....no I haven't pushed the set forward nor as far as I am aware has
my left leg got longer. (he says standing at an angle of 45 degrees!!
T C
David
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Rob Hill <[email protected]>
To: mogtalk2 <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, 17 July 2012, 18:20
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] Clutch Issues
Hi David,
If you depress the clutch and engage first gear and leave the clutch
depressed does the clutch gradually start to engage? If so then the master
cylinder seal is leaking. The fluid level is fine because no fluid is leaving
the system. It is simply escaping back to the reservoir.
All the best,
Rob Hill
----- Original Message -----
From: David Jones
To: mogtalk2
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] Clutch Issues
David
That was my first thought, but can't think what else it might be.
David
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
To: mogtalk2 <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, 17 July 2012, 15:49
Subject: RE: [mogtalk2] Clutch Issues
Sounds a low mileage for the clutch to be worn out
TC
David.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: David Jones [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: 17 July 2012 14:59
To: mogtalk2
Subject: [mogtalk2] Clutch Issues
Hi Chaps,
I need some advice from those much more technically gifted than I.
I have a 1998 4-4 with 30,000 miles on the clock. I took the Mog out
today and noticed the clutch pedal travel seemed to be getting longer and
longer, or to be more precise the take up of the clutch is very close to the
floor. I guess it must be new clutch time, however in the past with other
vehicles a slipping clutch was the sign of a worn out clutch and not pedal
travel. That said, I had to replace the clutch on the Defender some time ago
and if I recall that was also pedal travel rather than slipping.
So a few questions, do the symptoms suggest a new clutch and is it an
engine out job or can it be tackled from underneath?
I have checked the fluid levels are they are fine.
Thanks
David
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