Oh whoah, it looks rather nice! Could you maybe post some bigger images next time? You can hardly see any details in the first picture.
On Friday, 28 September 2012 22:06:53 UTC+1, Aleksander Zawada wrote: > > "accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's very > good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm > very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube prepared > from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I had old > photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm). > > www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito.jpg > www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito1.jpg > > Best regards > Alek > > >> it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant > to achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You > will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher > current.. > > While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have > different currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're > more-or-less constant > > voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different > current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode > resistors > > helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use > current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to > overdrive > > the smaller digits slightly. > > > > That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit > stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some > nixies, > > the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this. > > > >> And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-) > > That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd > choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes. > > > > However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them > visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I > > can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want > a nixie with B�cklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make > > my own. > > > > There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more > rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However, > > this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width. > > > >> Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play > and change things inside.. > > Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most > difficult problem in making nixies. > > > >> Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics? > > Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard > from someone who's making custom variable > > capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter. > > > > I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit > separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking > > of glass and mica as alternatives. > > > > - John > > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/y2mtu8mAOsgJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
