A solution to the inflexible socket-pins soldered to the PCB is to custom-fit each tube. Assign a unique number to each tube and socket. Place the pins onto the tube, then solder the pins to the PCB (almost like soldering the tube in-place). Remove the tube, clip-off the extra leads on the PCB.
The tube can be inserted almost effortlessly, and with far less force than a conventional socket. My last clock has 18 sockets for IN-18's. "Only" 14 are actually populated, though. I found that even though each tube is custom fitted to a particular location, it's fairly easy easy to interchange them because the pins are manufactured with reasonable consistency. Most IN-18 pins are soft and easily bent, so be extra careful when handling, socketing, straightening, etc. Nevertheless, I do keep each tube in it's assigned socket. If you have a 3D printer, make a socket-cap to slip over the soldered pins. It will provide some mechanical protection for the pins, and it makes insertion of tubes much easier. It will have the same appearance as a real socket. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/182a0ef8-a17d-4fbf-8498-76f1c1cb4845%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
