Thanks Jon; I am starting a new thread for this Dekatron project.
I will post tomorrow after some tests.
Peter

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 3:31 PM Jon <dekat...@nomotron.com> wrote:

> Actually, musing on it further, you might have a bit of a problem with the
> 74141 and dekatrons. I suspect the chip output transistors won't have a
> high enough Vceo to cope if you try to use the typical dekatron anode
> voltages. Likely you're either going to need to play around to run the tube
> at lower anode voltages (not sure that'll work very well) or switch to a
> mixture of logic and discrete components - something along the lines of a
> 7442 driving MPSA42 (you'll need an inverter between them).
>
> The GR10A is the best option here I think - that should work fine with
> 74141.
>
> Jon.
>
> On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 3:16:35 PM UTC Jon wrote:
>
>> >Can a Dekatron be driven like a Nixie from a 74141 instead of using the
>> steering electrodes?
>>
>> I've not actually done the experiment in the way that you say, but the
>> answer should be 'yes'. You'll need a selector dekatron though where all
>> the main cathodes are brought out to their own individual pins. So GS10C /
>> 6476 / A101 for example rather than GC10B / 6802 / OG4.
>>
>> There is actually a dekatron-lookalike, the GR10A, which is designed to
>> be used like this - it's essentially a GS10C without the guide electrodes
>> (different base, but that's a detail).
>>
>> Jon.
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 2:38:21 PM UTC bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Alex; you are missing the point. Neither of the circuits shown in
>>> various data sheets work properly!
>>> The circuit that does work and the one I'm using has the capacitor
>>> connected to the other side of the resistor.
>>> A quick question so it does not get lost below: Can a Dekatron be driven
>>> like a Nixie from a 74141 instead of using the steering electrodes?
>>>
>>> [image: 8453_LR.jpg]
>>> [image: 8453 Board_LR.jpg]
>>> Each tube has its own small circuit board that connects to a PIC on my
>>> power supply by a 6 wire (+5v, Gnd, 4 BCD) harness. and by a separate two
>>> wire harness if High Voltage is needed (the 2 pin 0.2" spacing header on
>>> the perfboard above). My wires are fed through a hole and loop down to be
>>> soldered to provide strain relief. All boards mount on two spacers. Some
>>> mount directly on the back of the tube if space allows. Any board can be
>>> removed in less than a minute, usually 2 screws but 4 screws where the
>>> board is not attached to the tube, then pull one or two connectors.
>>> [image: Wiring_LR.jpg]
>>> The E1T tube does not count in sync with the others because it is
>>> clocked, not fed by the common BCD bus. It takes time for the filaments to
>>> warm up so it needs a reset every decade to get it in sync. However it
>>> cannot count backwards without a lot of effort I'm not about to expend so
>>> it stays like this. The hole below is for LED displays.
>>> [image: Display Demo_LR.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 3:38 AM Alex <ajlg...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just a thought, maybe the diodes originally used had a much different
>>>> reverse leakage which, in half wave rectified setup, caused the polarity in
>>>> the tube to flip slightly - at low leakage current levels - and thus
>>>> extinguish it more cleanly between ripples. Modern(!) silicon (verses
>>>> germanium) may be too sharp for it? I think your full wave design is
>>>> probably best anyhow, the half wave was likely a cost compremise!
>>>> - Alex
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 20:08:35 UTC bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I tried Rk at 12k and 22k and it is still erratic.
>>>>> Next I went back to full wave and connected it to my display chassis
>>>>> that runs from a PIC that counts at various speeds. I see the circuit only
>>>>> counts slowly but at 10/sec it fails. No flickering, it just does not 
>>>>> count.
>>>>> I changed the capacitor to the other side of Rk and it works perfectly.
>>>>> I can't believe it is a typo carried through three documents but
>>>>> companies have been known to intentionally place errors to cause grief to
>>>>> anyone trying to steal their designs.
>>>>> This circuit works.
>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2021 at 12:47:29 PM UTC-5 Dekatron42 wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks, I've never looked at that particular datasheet previously,
>>>>>> only the Philips ones even though I have a few Amperex stamped Z550M's.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In this document: https://www.dos4ever.com/Z550M/Z550M2.pdf (a
>>>>>> somewhat clearer PDF can be downloaded here:
>>>>>> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/Z550M_2.pdf) there
>>>>>> is a paragraph on "Supply voltage" on page 120 where they mention a 
>>>>>> minimum
>>>>>> repetition frequency of 80 pulses per second as a minmum for proper
>>>>>> operation - perhaps that is the reason why it doesn't work as well on 
>>>>>> just
>>>>>> half wave rectification. Maybe Amperex had some specially made to be able
>>>>>> to drive them at 117 VAC @ 60Hz?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 17:56:07 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Martin; See attached for data sheet. I have tried different
>>>>>>> capacitors. They make no difference for either full wave or half wave -
>>>>>>> full wave always works with no indication of problems and half wave
>>>>>>> flickers all over the place and never works (unless I move the capacitor
>>>>>>> connection).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill van Dijk: I am in Canada, 60 Hz. Control grid?? See data sheet
>>>>>>> attached.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I was hoping someone else would have tried these circuits. I have
>>>>>>> used a 'scope to check the various signals and they look fine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:06 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Which datasheet do you use? I only have information with the full
>>>>>>>> wave rectifier.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> What happens if you use a 470nF or 1uF capacitor with the half wave
>>>>>>>> rectifier? I made some quick LTSpice simulations which shows that a 
>>>>>>>> higher
>>>>>>>> capacitor might work as the voltage seems to fall low enough between 
>>>>>>>> each
>>>>>>>> period, but only real tests can show if that works properly.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 14:13:47 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi Martin, I changed the circuit back to halfwave using a single
>>>>>>>>> diode from the bridge rectifier and changing the capacitor. This was
>>>>>>>>> absolute minimum change without moving anything else. Back came the
>>>>>>>>> erratic flashing. So it's not the diode. It just does not like half 
>>>>>>>>> wave.
>>>>>>>>> My circuits are direct copies from the data sheet.
>>>>>>>>> Peter
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Nice that it works!
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a
>>>>>>>>>> little smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they 
>>>>>>>>>> extinguish
>>>>>>>>>> during the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the 
>>>>>>>>>> glow,
>>>>>>>>>> and they are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a 
>>>>>>>>>> trigger
>>>>>>>>>> electrode has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a 
>>>>>>>>>> thyratron.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to
>>>>>>>>>> earlier failures if you check the voltage across the 
>>>>>>>>>> Anode-Cathode-Ignition
>>>>>>>>>> electrode with an oscilloscope?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor,
>>>>>>>>>> or no, connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked 
>>>>>>>>>> quite
>>>>>>>>>> well until I touched some pins.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why.
>>>>>>>>>>> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full
>>>>>>>>>>> wave rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but does 
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> same thing.
>>>>>>>>>>> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the same
>>>>>>>>>>> as my half wave circuit that did not work.
>>>>>>>>>>> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. I
>>>>>>>>>>> am using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
>>>>>>>>>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my
>>>>>>>>>>> 1N4007 diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a 
>>>>>>>>>>> snubber.
>>>>>>>>>>> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP 6448B up
>>>>>>>>>>> to 600 volt@1.5 amp, and no, I did not go that far). That
>>>>>>>>>>> locked the display on one digit. The data sheet says it needs 
>>>>>>>>>>> rectified
>>>>>>>>>>> line, not DC.
>>>>>>>>>>> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an
>>>>>>>>>>> isolation transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full 
>>>>>>>>>>> control
>>>>>>>>>>> of all voltages.
>>>>>>>>>>> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel
>>>>>>>>>>> connectors for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD 
>>>>>>>>>>> because CMOS
>>>>>>>>>>> would not drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up 
>>>>>>>>>>> and down
>>>>>>>>>>> at varying speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS.
>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 <
>>>>>>>>>>> martin....@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling
>>>>>>>>>>>> which will upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made 
>>>>>>>>>>>> for this by
>>>>>>>>>>>> Philips which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. The 
>>>>>>>>>>>> socket
>>>>>>>>>>>> is nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't 
>>>>>>>>>>>> find a
>>>>>>>>>>>> photo on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in 
>>>>>>>>>>>> my storage
>>>>>>>>>>>> and in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called 
>>>>>>>>>>>> PW4261
>>>>>>>>>>>> Timer, some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On this
>>>>>>>>>>>> socket all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to 
>>>>>>>>>>>> minimize the
>>>>>>>>>>>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some 40cm 
>>>>>>>>>>>> from the
>>>>>>>>>>>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I
>>>>>>>>>>>> scanned that can be downloaded from here:
>>>>>>>>>>>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that
>>>>>>>>>>>> can help you with the voltages for the drivers.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1
>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS).
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost
>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfect but flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfect
>>>>>>>>>>>>> unless I hold the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> lots of
>>>>>>>>>>>>> random flashing.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the capacitor moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> glass
>>>>>>>>>>>>> affects it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>   More later, I will be away this morning.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 <
>>>>>>>>>>>>> martin....@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they use a center tapped transformer and also a much lower value 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> capacitor,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only 33nF versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 33nF used in
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> real instruments using these indicators.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a box of them, and that seems to be due to the welding of the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> internal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> parts coming loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> exists with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> internal pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> these loose
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pieces if you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What usually
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> happens is that a rather large round center piece comes loose 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and in the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> worst case shortens some of the electrodes but usually only 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> makes it hard
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> them
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> trigger easier than others due to the distances between 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> differing, shaking the tube a little moves that effect around so 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> other
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> digits will start to work and vice versa.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Ck create
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> an RC filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so there 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be some
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ripple.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfectly at 5v with the capacitor moved to the other side of 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the resistor.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> However I was clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seem to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> remember reading of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> believe. I will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> must
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have tried this circuit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> greg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> numerals is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> grids to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> determine which cathode will be illuminated. I've seen 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> similar behavior
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with an A-101 dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Is it 8V as
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> indicated on the schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> steering
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and only 5v
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pulses (square waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> connected
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together internally.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shows it per my schematic and I can't believe they made that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mistake
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> several times including the hand drawn notes of the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> designer. I think maybe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I needed to have C1 directly on the socket pins and will try 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that tomorrow.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Nixie Tubes, this is a special tube with steering 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes..
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> chu...@all2easy.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways.   You need
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> high voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  You need a buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Only then would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buffer, which in
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> turn operates the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance.  That
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is the only sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> performance from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> CMOS logic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes.   That schematic there is a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> noisy deal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <bung...@gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <neoni...@googlegroups.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> numbers flash erratically, especially close to the number 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that is supposed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be lit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *When I moved  the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it works perfectly.  It is rock steady and does not care 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about line voltage
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or the 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)*
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> documentation and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up and down by 10
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had little effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all directly on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the socket pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions???
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --
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