Just a thought, maybe the diodes originally used had a much different 
reverse leakage which, in half wave rectified setup, caused the polarity in 
the tube to flip slightly - at low leakage current levels - and thus 
extinguish it more cleanly between ripples. Modern(!) silicon (verses 
germanium) may be too sharp for it? I think your full wave design is 
probably best anyhow, the half wave was likely a cost compremise!
- Alex

On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 20:08:35 UTC bung...@gmail.com wrote:

> I tried Rk at 12k and 22k and it is still erratic.
> Next I went back to full wave and connected it to my display chassis that 
> runs from a PIC that counts at various speeds. I see the circuit only 
> counts slowly but at 10/sec it fails. No flickering, it just does not count.
> I changed the capacitor to the other side of Rk and it works perfectly.
> I can't believe it is a typo carried through three documents but companies 
> have been known to intentionally place errors to cause grief to anyone 
> trying to steal their designs.
> This circuit works.
> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>
> On Friday, February 12, 2021 at 12:47:29 PM UTC-5 Dekatron42 wrote:
>
>> Thanks, I've never looked at that particular datasheet previously, only 
>> the Philips ones even though I have a few Amperex stamped Z550M's.
>>
>> In this document: https://www.dos4ever.com/Z550M/Z550M2.pdf (a somewhat 
>> clearer PDF can be downloaded here: 
>> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/Z550M_2.pdf) there is a 
>> paragraph on "Supply voltage" on page 120 where they mention a minimum 
>> repetition frequency of 80 pulses per second as a minmum for proper 
>> operation - perhaps that is the reason why it doesn't work as well on just 
>> half wave rectification. Maybe Amperex had some specially made to be able 
>> to drive them at 117 VAC @ 60Hz?
>>
>> /Martin
>>
>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 17:56:07 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Martin; See attached for data sheet. I have tried different capacitors. 
>>> They make no difference for either full wave or half wave - full wave 
>>> always works with no indication of problems and half wave flickers all over 
>>> the place and never works (unless I move the capacitor connection).
>>>
>>> Bill van Dijk: I am in Canada, 60 Hz. Control grid?? See data sheet 
>>> attached.
>>>
>>> I was hoping someone else would have tried these circuits. I have used a 
>>> 'scope to check the various signals and they look fine.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:06 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Which datasheet do you use? I only have information with the full wave 
>>>> rectifier.
>>>>
>>>> What happens if you use a 470nF or 1uF capacitor with the half wave 
>>>> rectifier? I made some quick LTSpice simulations which shows that a higher 
>>>> capacitor might work as the voltage seems to fall low enough between each 
>>>> period, but only real tests can show if that works properly.
>>>>
>>>> /Martin
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 14:13:47 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Martin, I changed the circuit back to halfwave using a single diode 
>>>>> from the bridge rectifier and changing the capacitor. This was absolute 
>>>>> minimum change without moving anything else. Back came the 
>>>>> erratic flashing. So it's not the diode. It just does not like half wave.
>>>>> My circuits are direct copies from the data sheet.
>>>>> Peter
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Nice that it works!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a little 
>>>>>> smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they extinguish 
>>>>>> during 
>>>>>> the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the glow, and 
>>>>>> they 
>>>>>> are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a trigger 
>>>>>> electrode 
>>>>>> has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a thyratron.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to earlier 
>>>>>> failures if you check the voltage across the Anode-Cathode-Ignition 
>>>>>> electrode with an oscilloscope?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor, or 
>>>>>> no, connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked quite 
>>>>>> well 
>>>>>> until I touched some pins.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why.
>>>>>>> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full wave 
>>>>>>> rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but does the same 
>>>>>>> thing.
>>>>>>> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the same as 
>>>>>>> my half wave circuit that did not work.
>>>>>>> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. I am 
>>>>>>> using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
>>>>>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my 
>>>>>>> 1N4007 diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a snubber.
>>>>>>> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP 6448B up 
>>>>>>> to 600 volt@1.5 amp, and no, I did not go that far). That locked 
>>>>>>> the display on one digit. The data sheet says it needs rectified line, 
>>>>>>> not 
>>>>>>> DC.
>>>>>>> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an isolation 
>>>>>>> transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full control of all 
>>>>>>> voltages. 
>>>>>>> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel 
>>>>>>> connectors for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD because 
>>>>>>> CMOS 
>>>>>>> would not drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up and 
>>>>>>> down 
>>>>>>> at varying speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS.
>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling which 
>>>>>>>> will upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made for this by 
>>>>>>>> Philips which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. The 
>>>>>>>> socket 
>>>>>>>> is nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't find 
>>>>>>>> a 
>>>>>>>> photo on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in my 
>>>>>>>> storage 
>>>>>>>> and in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called PW4261 
>>>>>>>> Timer, some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. On 
>>>>>>>> this 
>>>>>>>> socket all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to minimize 
>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some 40cm 
>>>>>>>> from the 
>>>>>>>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I 
>>>>>>>> scanned that can be downloaded from here: 
>>>>>>>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that can 
>>>>>>>> help you with the voltages for the drivers.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert.
>>>>>>>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS).
>>>>>>>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost perfect 
>>>>>>>>> but flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is perfect 
>>>>>>>>> unless I 
>>>>>>>>> hold the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get lots of random 
>>>>>>>>> flashing.
>>>>>>>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with 
>>>>>>>>> the capacitor moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the 
>>>>>>>>> glass 
>>>>>>>>> affects it.
>>>>>>>>>   More later, I will be away this morning.  
>>>>>>>>> Peter.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here they 
>>>>>>>>>> use a center tapped transformer and also a much lower value 
>>>>>>>>>> capacitor, only 
>>>>>>>>>> 33nF versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen 33nF used 
>>>>>>>>>> in real 
>>>>>>>>>> instruments using these indicators.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I have a 
>>>>>>>>>> box of them, and that seems to be due to the welding of the internal 
>>>>>>>>>> parts 
>>>>>>>>>> coming loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem exists with 
>>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>>> B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too with 
>>>>>>>>>> internal 
>>>>>>>>>> pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear these loose 
>>>>>>>>>> pieces if 
>>>>>>>>>> you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. What usually 
>>>>>>>>>> happens 
>>>>>>>>>> is that a rather large round center piece comes loose and in the 
>>>>>>>>>> worst case 
>>>>>>>>>> shortens some of the electrodes but usually only makes it hard or 
>>>>>>>>>> impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of them 
>>>>>>>>>> trigger 
>>>>>>>>>> easier than others due to the distances between electrodes are 
>>>>>>>>>> differing, 
>>>>>>>>>> shaking the tube a little moves that effect around so other digits 
>>>>>>>>>> will 
>>>>>>>>>> start to work and vice versa.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope on the 
>>>>>>>>>>> cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk and Ck 
>>>>>>>>>>> create an RC 
>>>>>>>>>>> filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so there could be some 
>>>>>>>>>>> ripple.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs perfectly 
>>>>>>>>>>>> at 5v with the capacitor moved to the other side of the resistor. 
>>>>>>>>>>>> However I 
>>>>>>>>>>>> was clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. I seem to 
>>>>>>>>>>>> remember 
>>>>>>>>>>>> reading of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic.
>>>>>>>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to 
>>>>>>>>>>>> believe. I will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone must 
>>>>>>>>>>>> have tried this circuit.
>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert <greg...@hotmail.com> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> numerals is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving grids 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> determine which cathode will be illuminated. I've seen similar 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> behavior 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> with an A-101 dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? Is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it 8V as 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> indicated on the schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The steering 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded and only 5v 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pulses (square 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are connected together 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> internally.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet shows 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it per my schematic and I can't believe they made that mistake 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> several 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> times including the hand drawn notes of the designer. I think 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> maybe I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> needed to have C1 directly on the socket pins and will try that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> tomorrow.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking Nixie 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Tubes, this is a special tube with steering electrodes..
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr <chu...@all2easy.net> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways.   You need high 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases.   You 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> need a buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base.  Only 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the buffer, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which in turn 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> operates the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance.  That is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the only sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> performance from CMOS 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> logic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes.   That schematic there is a 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> noisy deal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <bung...@gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <neoni...@googlegroups.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other numbers 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flash erratically, especially close to the number that is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> supposed to be 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *When I moved  the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1 it 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> works perfectly.  It is rock steady and does not care about 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line voltage or 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)*
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> documentation and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 up 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and down by 10 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had little effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are all 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directly on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the socket pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions???
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --
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