Which datasheet do you use? I only have information with the full wave 
rectifier.

What happens if you use a 470nF or 1uF capacitor with the half wave 
rectifier? I made some quick LTSpice simulations which shows that a higher 
capacitor might work as the voltage seems to fall low enough between each 
period, but only real tests can show if that works properly.

/Martin

On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 14:13:47 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Martin, I changed the circuit back to halfwave using a single diode 
> from the bridge rectifier and changing the capacitor. This was absolute 
> minimum change without moving anything else. Back came the 
> erratic flashing. So it's not the diode. It just does not like half wave.
> My circuits are direct copies from the data sheet.
> Peter
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Nice that it works!
>>
>> My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a little 
>> smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they extinguish during 
>> the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the glow, and they 
>> are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a trigger electrode 
>> has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a thyratron.
>>
>> Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to earlier 
>> failures if you check the voltage across the Anode-Cathode-Ignition 
>> electrode with an oscilloscope?
>>
>> I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor, or no, 
>> connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked quite well 
>> until I touched some pins.
>>
>> /Martin
>>
>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why.
>>> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full wave 
>>> rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but does the same 
>>> thing.
>>> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the same as my 
>>> half wave circuit that did not work.
>>> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. I am 
>>> using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my 1N4007 
>>> diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a snubber.
>>> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP 6448B up to 600 
>>> volt@1.5 amp, and no, I did not go that far). That locked the display 
>>> on one digit. The data sheet says it needs rectified line, not DC.
>>> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an isolation 
>>> transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full control of all 
>>> voltages. 
>>> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel 
>>> connectors for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD because CMOS 
>>> would not drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up and down 
>>> at varying speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS.
>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling which will 
>>>> upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made for this by Philips 
>>>> which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. The socket is 
>>>> nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't find a 
>>>> photo 
>>>> on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in my storage and 
>>>> in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called PW4261 Timer, 
>>>> some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. On this socket 
>>>> all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to minimize the 
>>>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some 40cm from 
>>>> the 
>>>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers.
>>>>
>>>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I scanned 
>>>> that can be downloaded from here: 
>>>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that can help 
>>>> you with the voltages for the drivers.
>>>>
>>>> /Martin
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert.
>>>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS).
>>>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost perfect but 
>>>>> flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is perfect unless I 
>>>>> hold 
>>>>> the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get lots of random flashing.
>>>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with the capacitor 
>>>>> moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the glass affects it.
>>>>>   More later, I will be away this morning.  
>>>>> Peter.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here they use 
>>>>>> a center tapped transformer and also a much lower value capacitor, only 
>>>>>> 33nF versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen 33nF used in 
>>>>>> real 
>>>>>> instruments using these indicators.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I have a box 
>>>>>> of them, and that seems to be due to the welding of the internal parts 
>>>>>> coming loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem exists with the 
>>>>>> B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too with internal 
>>>>>> pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear these loose pieces 
>>>>>> if 
>>>>>> you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. What usually 
>>>>>> happens 
>>>>>> is that a rather large round center piece comes loose and in the worst 
>>>>>> case 
>>>>>> shortens some of the electrodes but usually only makes it hard or 
>>>>>> impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of them 
>>>>>> trigger 
>>>>>> easier than others due to the distances between electrodes are 
>>>>>> differing, 
>>>>>> shaking the tube a little moves that effect around so other digits will 
>>>>>> start to work and vice versa.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> /Martin
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope on the 
>>>>>>> cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk and Ck create 
>>>>>>> an RC 
>>>>>>> filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so there could be some 
>>>>>>> ripple.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs perfectly at 
>>>>>>>> 5v with the capacitor moved to the other side of the resistor. However 
>>>>>>>> I 
>>>>>>>> was clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. I seem to remember 
>>>>>>>> reading of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic.
>>>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to believe. I 
>>>>>>>> will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone must have tried 
>>>>>>>> this 
>>>>>>>> circuit.
>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert <greg...@hotmail.com> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit numerals 
>>>>>>>>> is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving grids to determine 
>>>>>>>>> which 
>>>>>>>>> cathode will be illuminated. I've seen similar behavior with an A-101 
>>>>>>>>> dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? Is it 8V as indicated 
>>>>>>>>> on the 
>>>>>>>>> schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8 
>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube is 
>>>>>>>>>> designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The steering 
>>>>>>>>>> electrodes 
>>>>>>>>>> are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded and only 5v pulses 
>>>>>>>>>> (square 
>>>>>>>>>> waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are connected together 
>>>>>>>>>> internally.
>>>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet shows it 
>>>>>>>>>> per my schematic and I can't believe they made that mistake several 
>>>>>>>>>> times 
>>>>>>>>>> including the hand drawn notes of the designer. I think maybe I 
>>>>>>>>>> needed to 
>>>>>>>>>> have C1 directly on the socket pins and will try that tomorrow.
>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking Nixie Tubes, 
>>>>>>>>>> this is a special tube with steering electrodes..
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr <chu...@all2easy.net> 
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways.   You need high 
>>>>>>>>>>> voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases.   You need 
>>>>>>>>>>> a buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base.  Only then 
>>>>>>>>>>> would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the buffer, which in 
>>>>>>>>>>> turn 
>>>>>>>>>>> operates the
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance.  That is the 
>>>>>>>>>>> only sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free performance from 
>>>>>>>>>>> CMOS 
>>>>>>>>>>> logic
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes.   That schematic there is a noisy 
>>>>>>>>>>> deal.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <bung...@gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM
>>>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <neoni...@googlegroups.com>
>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet
>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other numbers flash 
>>>>>>>>>>> erratically, especially close to the number that is supposed to be 
>>>>>>>>>>> lit.
>>>>>>>>>>> *When I moved  the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1 it works 
>>>>>>>>>>> perfectly.  It is rock steady and does not care about line voltage 
>>>>>>>>>>> or the 
>>>>>>>>>>> 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)*
>>>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the 
>>>>>>>>>>> documentation and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 up and 
>>>>>>>>>>> down by 10 
>>>>>>>>>>> had little effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are all 
>>>>>>>>>>> directly on 
>>>>>>>>>>> the socket pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long.
>>>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect. 
>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions???
>>>>>>>>>>>
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