Thanks Martin; I am starting a new thread for this Dekatron project. I will post tomorrow after some tests. Peter
On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 5:10 PM Dekatron42 <martin.forsb...@gmail.com> wrote: > If you can get your hands on a GSA10G you could even let it drive a Nixie > at the same time, or you can use one of the A-201 Polyatrons with a Nixie. > > You can use a set/reset circuit for each cathode on the GSA10G (or any > selector dekatron) as well as on the auxilliary anodes of the A-201, it > will however require a few components for each of the cathodes/auxilliary > anodes to be able to set/reset them to each position, an extra transistor > will let you drive a Nixie too on an ordinary selector dekatron. You can > find the circuit for the set/reset capability for the A-201 Polyatron here > on the forum as I've published it here a few years ago. You should let the > guide electrodes at their bias voltage so that they don't float and disturb > the dekatron/polyatron from working properly. > > For the selector dekatron you can use the circuit below (taken from an > Advance Rate Meter Counter), it will drive a Nixie at the same time as > having the capability to set/reset the dekatron to each cathode - you'll of > course need 10 of these circiuts for a GS10C dekatron. The circuit was > designed for use with a GS10H dekatron together with a GR10K Nixie. Don't > leave out either D1 or D2 from the circuit as they are there for protecting > from positive/negative pulses that would upset the circuit and blow Q3. If > you use a GSA10G you can skip Q3 as the GSA10G will drive the Nixie > directly. You will probably have to adjust R4 & R7 depending on what > dekatron you use but the rest of the components should be fine with any > dekatron, the reason for adjusting these two resistors is to accomodate for > the correct cathode current to pass to common ground both during normal > counting (R7) and during set/reset (R4). R2 should be a 1W resistor as it > will have just above 0.6W power or use two resistors in series for enough > power rating. The circuit is designed to make a short enough pulse for > set/reset and not for a continous voltage on the cathode of the dekatron, > the glow will stay on the set/reset cathode due to current flowing through > D2 & R7 to common ground (current also flows through R4 & D1 to common > ground but the main part of the current flows through D2 & R7). I've used > this circuit in many experiments and it works very well. > > /Martin > > [image: Dekatron-Nixie-SET-Circuit.JPG] > > On Saturday, 13 February 2021 at 21:31:35 UTC+1 Jon wrote: > >> Actually, musing on it further, you might have a bit of a problem with >> the 74141 and dekatrons. I suspect the chip output transistors won't have a >> high enough Vceo to cope if you try to use the typical dekatron anode >> voltages. Likely you're either going to need to play around to run the tube >> at lower anode voltages (not sure that'll work very well) or switch to a >> mixture of logic and discrete components - something along the lines of a >> 7442 driving MPSA42 (you'll need an inverter between them). >> >> The GR10A is the best option here I think - that should work fine with >> 74141. >> >> Jon. >> >> On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 3:16:35 PM UTC Jon wrote: >> >>> >Can a Dekatron be driven like a Nixie from a 74141 instead of using the >>> steering electrodes? >>> >>> I've not actually done the experiment in the way that you say, but the >>> answer should be 'yes'. You'll need a selector dekatron though where all >>> the main cathodes are brought out to their own individual pins. So GS10C / >>> 6476 / A101 for example rather than GC10B / 6802 / OG4. >>> >>> There is actually a dekatron-lookalike, the GR10A, which is designed to >>> be used like this - it's essentially a GS10C without the guide electrodes >>> (different base, but that's a detail). >>> >>> Jon. >>> >>> On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 2:38:21 PM UTC bung...@gmail.com >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Alex; you are missing the point. Neither of the circuits shown in >>>> various data sheets work properly! >>>> The circuit that does work and the one I'm using has the capacitor >>>> connected to the other side of the resistor. >>>> A quick question so it does not get lost below: Can a Dekatron be >>>> driven like a Nixie from a 74141 instead of using the steering electrodes? >>>> >>>> [image: 8453_LR.jpg] >>>> [image: 8453 Board_LR.jpg] >>>> Each tube has its own small circuit board that connects to a PIC on my >>>> power supply by a 6 wire (+5v, Gnd, 4 BCD) harness. and by a separate two >>>> wire harness if High Voltage is needed (the 2 pin 0.2" spacing header on >>>> the perfboard above). My wires are fed through a hole and loop down to be >>>> soldered to provide strain relief. All boards mount on two spacers. Some >>>> mount directly on the back of the tube if space allows. Any board can be >>>> removed in less than a minute, usually 2 screws but 4 screws where the >>>> board is not attached to the tube, then pull one or two connectors. >>>> [image: Wiring_LR.jpg] >>>> The E1T tube does not count in sync with the others because it is >>>> clocked, not fed by the common BCD bus. It takes time for the filaments to >>>> warm up so it needs a reset every decade to get it in sync. However it >>>> cannot count backwards without a lot of effort I'm not about to expend so >>>> it stays like this. The hole below is for LED displays. >>>> [image: Display Demo_LR.jpg] >>>> >>>> >>>> On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 3:38 AM Alex <ajlg...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Just a thought, maybe the diodes originally used had a much different >>>>> reverse leakage which, in half wave rectified setup, caused the polarity >>>>> in >>>>> the tube to flip slightly - at low leakage current levels - and thus >>>>> extinguish it more cleanly between ripples. Modern(!) silicon (verses >>>>> germanium) may be too sharp for it? I think your full wave design is >>>>> probably best anyhow, the half wave was likely a cost compremise! >>>>> - Alex >>>>> >>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 20:08:35 UTC bung...@gmail.com wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I tried Rk at 12k and 22k and it is still erratic. >>>>>> Next I went back to full wave and connected it to my display chassis >>>>>> that runs from a PIC that counts at various speeds. I see the circuit >>>>>> only >>>>>> counts slowly but at 10/sec it fails. No flickering, it just does not >>>>>> count. >>>>>> I changed the capacitor to the other side of Rk and it works >>>>>> perfectly. >>>>>> I can't believe it is a typo carried through three documents but >>>>>> companies have been known to intentionally place errors to cause grief to >>>>>> anyone trying to steal their designs. >>>>>> This circuit works. >>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg] >>>>>> >>>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2021 at 12:47:29 PM UTC-5 Dekatron42 wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Thanks, I've never looked at that particular datasheet previously, >>>>>>> only the Philips ones even though I have a few Amperex stamped Z550M's. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> In this document: https://www.dos4ever.com/Z550M/Z550M2.pdf (a >>>>>>> somewhat clearer PDF can be downloaded here: >>>>>>> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/Z550M_2.pdf) there >>>>>>> is a paragraph on "Supply voltage" on page 120 where they mention a >>>>>>> minimum >>>>>>> repetition frequency of 80 pulses per second as a minmum for proper >>>>>>> operation - perhaps that is the reason why it doesn't work as well on >>>>>>> just >>>>>>> half wave rectification. Maybe Amperex had some specially made to be >>>>>>> able >>>>>>> to drive them at 117 VAC @ 60Hz? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> /Martin >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 17:56:07 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Martin; See attached for data sheet. I have tried different >>>>>>>> capacitors. They make no difference for either full wave or half wave - >>>>>>>> full wave always works with no indication of problems and half wave >>>>>>>> flickers all over the place and never works (unless I move the >>>>>>>> capacitor >>>>>>>> connection). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Bill van Dijk: I am in Canada, 60 Hz. Control grid?? See data sheet >>>>>>>> attached. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I was hoping someone else would have tried these circuits. I have >>>>>>>> used a 'scope to check the various signals and they look fine. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:06 AM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Which datasheet do you use? I only have information with the full >>>>>>>>> wave rectifier. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> What happens if you use a 470nF or 1uF capacitor with the half >>>>>>>>> wave rectifier? I made some quick LTSpice simulations which shows >>>>>>>>> that a >>>>>>>>> higher capacitor might work as the voltage seems to fall low enough >>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>> each period, but only real tests can show if that works properly. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> /Martin >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Friday, 12 February 2021 at 14:13:47 UTC+1 bung...@gmail.com >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Hi Martin, I changed the circuit back to halfwave using a single >>>>>>>>>> diode from the bridge rectifier and changing the capacitor. This was >>>>>>>>>> absolute minimum change without moving anything else. Back came the >>>>>>>>>> erratic flashing. So it's not the diode. It just does not like half >>>>>>>>>> wave. >>>>>>>>>> My circuits are direct copies from the data sheet. >>>>>>>>>> Peter >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM Dekatron42 <martin....@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Nice that it works! >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> My understanding is that they need rectified AC, with just a >>>>>>>>>>> little smoothing so as not to make it a pure DC voltage, as they >>>>>>>>>>> extinguish >>>>>>>>>>> during the portion of the voltage when it is to low to maintain the >>>>>>>>>>> glow, >>>>>>>>>>> and they are re-ignited when the voltage rise again as long as a >>>>>>>>>>> trigger >>>>>>>>>>> electrode has the correct voltage to initiate a glow, much like a >>>>>>>>>>> thyratron. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Maybe you can find the reason for it working now compared to >>>>>>>>>>> earlier failures if you check the voltage across the >>>>>>>>>>> Anode-Cathode-Ignition >>>>>>>>>>> electrode with an oscilloscope? >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> I've also had some problems with CMOS ic's when I have had poor, >>>>>>>>>>> or no, connection to VCC/GND on the power pins - the circuit worked >>>>>>>>>>> quite >>>>>>>>>>> well until I touched some pins. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> /Martin >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 21:50:49 UTC+1 >>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> I have solved the problem but I don't understand why. >>>>>>>>>>>> Having tried all the suggestions except this, I went to a full >>>>>>>>>>>> wave rectifier. It is not quite the same as the data sheet but >>>>>>>>>>>> does the >>>>>>>>>>>> same thing. >>>>>>>>>>>> It also has the capacitor connected per the data sheet, the >>>>>>>>>>>> same as my half wave circuit that did not work. >>>>>>>>>>>> This is rock solid with no indication of any other flickering. >>>>>>>>>>>> I am using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no >>>>>>>>>>>> effect. >>>>>>>>>>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my >>>>>>>>>>>> 1N4007 diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a >>>>>>>>>>>> snubber. >>>>>>>>>>>> I also tried DC from a variable regulated power supply (HP >>>>>>>>>>>> 6448B up to 600 volt@1.5 amp, and no, I did not go that far). >>>>>>>>>>>> That locked the display on one digit. The data sheet says it needs >>>>>>>>>>>> rectified line, not DC. >>>>>>>>>>>> I am running my tests from an HP supply for the 5v and an >>>>>>>>>>>> isolation transformer driven by a Variac for the AC so I have full >>>>>>>>>>>> control >>>>>>>>>>>> of all voltages. >>>>>>>>>>>> This is my final schematic. It is driven by a PIC with parallel >>>>>>>>>>>> connectors for each display. I used a PIC to generate the BCD >>>>>>>>>>>> because CMOS >>>>>>>>>>>> would not drive the three 74141 for the Nixies. The PIC counts up >>>>>>>>>>>> and down >>>>>>>>>>>> at varying speeds which would have been more difficult with CMOS. >>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg] >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:33 AM Dekatron42 < >>>>>>>>>>>> martin....@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Touching the glass means that you get a capacitive coupling >>>>>>>>>>>>> which will upset them somewhat, there was a special socket made >>>>>>>>>>>>> for this by >>>>>>>>>>>>> Philips which has a partial metal screen surrounding the tube. >>>>>>>>>>>>> The socket >>>>>>>>>>>>> is nicknamed "der Kuss" , "The kiss", due to its form. I couldn't >>>>>>>>>>>>> find a >>>>>>>>>>>>> photo on the Internet now but I know it exists as I have some in >>>>>>>>>>>>> my storage >>>>>>>>>>>>> and in an instrument that uses them. That instrument is called >>>>>>>>>>>>> PW4261 >>>>>>>>>>>>> Timer, some photos of the externals can be found on the Internet. >>>>>>>>>>>>> On this >>>>>>>>>>>>> socket all of the resistors are mounted flush to the pins to >>>>>>>>>>>>> minimize the >>>>>>>>>>>>> distance, but the capacitors and power supply is mounted some >>>>>>>>>>>>> 40cm from the >>>>>>>>>>>>> tubes themselves, likewise there are long wires to the drivers. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> You can also have a look at the manual for the PW4231 which I >>>>>>>>>>>>> scanned that can be downloaded from here: >>>>>>>>>>>>> https://frank.pocnet.net/other/sos/Philips_PW4232.pdf if that >>>>>>>>>>>>> can help you with the voltages for the drivers. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> /Martin >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 15:50:55 UTC+1 >>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I meant dekatron in my last reply to gregebert. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have 3 of these tubes, all apparently new (NOS). >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Per your suggestion I tried the other two. One is almost >>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfect but flashes the 2 a bit when 8 is selected. The third is >>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfect >>>>>>>>>>>>>> unless I hold the tube in my fingers by the glass where I get >>>>>>>>>>>>>> lots of >>>>>>>>>>>>>> random flashing. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Remember that the really bad one works perfectly with >>>>>>>>>>>>>> the capacitor moved as I mentioned. I don't know if touching the >>>>>>>>>>>>>> glass >>>>>>>>>>>>>> affects it. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> More later, I will be away this morning. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 2:10 AM Dekatron42 < >>>>>>>>>>>>>> martin....@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Have you tried the circuit in the J.B Dance book below? Here >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they use a center tapped transformer and also a much lower >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> value capacitor, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only 33nF versus 250nF in your circuit - I've only evere seen >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 33nF used in >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> real instruments using these indicators. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Quite a few of the Z550M/ZM1050 are broken internally, I >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have a box of them, and that seems to be due to the welding of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the internal >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> parts coming loose when shaken or hit hard (the same problem >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> exists with >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the B9012/NL9012 tubes - I have a few broken ones of those too >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> internal pieces that have come loose) - sometimes you can hear >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> these loose >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pieces if you shake the tube very carefully close to your ear. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What usually >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> happens is that a rather large round center piece comes loose >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and in the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> worst case shortens some of the electrodes but usually only >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> makes it hard >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or impossible to get all digits to light up poperly and some of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> them >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> trigger easier than others due to the distances between >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes are >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> differing, shaking the tube a little moves that effect around >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> so other >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> digits will start to work and vice versa. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> /Martin >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: JBDance-Z550M.JPG] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, 11 February 2021 at 06:02:24 UTC+1 gregebert >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you have an isolation transformer, can you put a scope >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on the cathode line to verify the ripple is not excessive ? Rk >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and Ck >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> create an RC filter around 77Hz, and the line is 50-60Hz, so >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> there could be >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> some ripple. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 8:26:51 PM UTC-8 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I tried varying it with absolutely no effect. It runs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> perfectly at 5v with the capacitor moved to the other side of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the resistor. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> However I was clocking slowly. It may not run at spec speed. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I seem to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> remember reading of using 5 to 8 volts for the logic. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The data sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> believe. I will try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> must >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have tried this circuit. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> greg...@hotmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> numerals is too low. The CMOS device is basically driving >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> grids to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> determine which cathode will be illuminated. I've seen >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> similar behavior >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with an A-101 dekatron. What voltage are you using for VDD ? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Is it 8V as >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> indicated on the schematic, or a more-conventional 5V ? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 7:22:25 PM UTC-8 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bung...@gmail.com wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think you are wrong. The literature explains this tube >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is designed to be driven by 5v logic and it does work. The >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> steering >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes are close to the Anode voltage which is grounded >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and only 5v >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pulses (square waves) are needed. Note all the cathodes are >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> connected >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together internally. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I got to thinking about the C1 position. The data sheet >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shows it per my schematic and I can't believe they made >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that mistake >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> several times including the hand drawn notes of the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> designer. I think maybe >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I needed to have C1 directly on the socket pins and will >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> try that tomorrow. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for your interest though but you are thinking >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Nixie Tubes, this is a special tube with steering >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electrodes.. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 9:42 PM chuckrr < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> chu...@all2easy.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> That schematic is so wrong in so many ways. You need >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> high voltage transistors operating the tube cathodes. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You need high resistance drving the transistor bases. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You need a buffer such as 4049 or 4050 driving the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resistor, which in turn drives the transistor base. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Only then would I dare to use the 4028....to operate the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buffer, which in >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> turn operates the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> transistor base via appropriate high resistance. That >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is the only sure fire way I know of to attain noise-free >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> performance from >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> CMOS logic >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> driving cold cathode tubes. That schematic there is a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> noisy deal. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---- Original Message ---- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "peter bunge" <bung...@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: 2/10/2021 8:15:21 PM >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "neonixie-l" <neoni...@googlegroups.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [neonixie-l] 8453/Z550M erratic >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Using the schematic from the data sheet >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: 8453 Circuit.jpg] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This works with the count moving around but other >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> numbers flash erratically, especially close to the number >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that is supposed >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be lit. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *When I moved the bottom of C1 to the other side of R1 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it works perfectly. It is rock steady and does not care >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about line voltage >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or the 5v supply (shown above as 8v but used at 5v)* >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If this is an error it is continued through all the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> documentation and is consistent. Changing the value of C1 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up and down by 10 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had little effect but a smaller C1 helps a bit. My Rst are >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all directly on >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the socket pins and the wires are all about 5 inches long. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have varied the line voltage with little effect. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions??? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> emails from it, send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/b996ef0b-edbb-4c77-8ec1-57255dd58a82n%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/b996ef0b-edbb-4c77-8ec1-57255dd58a82n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> emails from it, send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/202102101842701.SM05295%40ADT-IM1 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/202102101842701.SM05295%40ADT-IM1?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/9543e23e-ebb0-46e7-8624-ddcf4a843667n%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/9543e23e-ebb0-46e7-8624-ddcf4a843667n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/7085da7d-27dd-46f3-9bba-9e2d369dcc4fn%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/7085da7d-27dd-46f3-9bba-9e2d369dcc4fn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >>>>>>>>>>>>> Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from >>>>>>>>>>>>> it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/ad3deb14-52ce-4b11-b048-dd6dea83bdban%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/ad3deb14-52ce-4b11-b048-dd6dea83bdban%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >>>>>>>>>>> Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this 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