That makes no sense at all. A #38 is larger than a #35 and .005 is correct for 
#35. Did you mike those wires ? 
I have the original E-mail that you said the tire was off 3/8" 




________________________________
From: Glen <[email protected]>
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
Sent: Mon, February 1, 2010 6:38:00 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further

Dennis:

Previously the edge of the wheel was say 1/4 from the right side and
about 5/8 from the left of the edge of the rear tire. Now the the
front wheel is shoved over to the right so its zero off the right and
about 3/4 off the left side.  It would appear as though I mooved it
1/4 in the wrong direction. I under stand instruction and will proceed
slowly.

While I had the bike appart. I took the carbs off to re=wire the
factory #35 Klein slow jets per your corrected bore size from 0.0011
to 0.0050. While doing so I broke a wire in a jet and so I ordered new
ones the next size up #38. I can not pass a 0.0025 wire through the
brand new Klein # 38 slow jest much less a 0.0050.  I think you had it
right the first time at 0.0011????


Glen




On Jan 31, 2:21 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> You mean that the front wheel is not centered between the parallel lines from 
> the rear wheel by 3/4" ? That's much worse than the 3/8" you started with. 
> Loosen the axle caps and fork clamp bolts. Leave the caps finger tight so 
> they can move about. You'll have to support the bike under the frame since it 
> will fall down the tubes with the clamps loose. Using both hands, twist the 
> fork tubes (both, at the same time)  in their clamps and observe if the wheel 
> moves. (this does require a helper) Unless I have it wrong, the wheel should 
> move it's center line and come into alignment. (equal spacing on both sides) 
> Stop and recheck for alignment in both planes. (vertical and inline with 
> rear) Max allowable is 1/8" off. Be careful, go slow. Once you see what is 
> happening, it'll come easy to you to make adjustments. Don't get frustrated, 
> the front end of a 700 can be manipulated like no others. Still have the 
> calipers off ? Leave 'em off for now.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Glen <[email protected]>
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sun, January 31, 2010 11:59:39 AM
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> Dennis:
>
> Off the stand. Wheel is ok 90 dreees to the floor.  Off center with
> rear. Lines up on right side but off on left side by 3/4 inch or so.
>
> What next?
>
> Glen
>
> On Jan 30, 5:01 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Everything stayed straight ? Still in perfect alignment with the back wheel 
> > ? How about in parallel with the rear wheel as in earlier testing ? (that's 
> > the second plane) Confirm both planes before we proceed. 90 degrees to 
> > floor and less than 1/8" off center from rear wheel. That's as good as it 
> > gets.
>
> > ________________________________
> > From: Glen <[email protected]>
> > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Sat, January 30, 2010 4:28:00 PM
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > Dennis:
>
> > All tight all right. What Next?
>
> > Glen
>
> > On Jan 28, 11:41 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > Start by tightening the axle clamps. Front nuts first, then rear ones. 
> > > Recheck alignment. Position tubes in fork bridge clamps (so much above 
> > > top bridge) and tighten clamps. Recheck alignment. Install fender and 
> > > fork brace and recheck alignment. That reason behind this all is to see 
> > > if at any time it shifts. Constant rechecking after each step will show 
> > > the exact component that is at fault. If it doesn't move and stays right, 
> > > all the better. Leave the brake calipers off for now. Get back to me when 
> > > this is completed. Brake set-up is a bit more precise. If it moves as any 
> > > clamp is tightened, note which one and report in.
>
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Glen <[email protected]>
> > > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Thu, January 28, 2010 7:36:58 PM
> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > Dennis:
>
> > > Its perfect! I tripple checked it with a square on each side both
> > > front and rear. Its right on!
>
> > > Whats next?
>
> > > On Jan 27, 11:41 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > You didn't say you had the tubes off. Start at the common 3/8" 
> > > > position. We'll attend to those little details later. When you let the 
> > > > bike settle on the axle, keep the jack/s in place, we'll need them to 
> > > > support it during alignment. First order of business is to make this 
> > > > thing as straight as can be. Later is brakes, tube height,,, for now 
> > > > just the wheel in place. The method is quite simple once you understand 
> > > > how all this fits together. If it cannot be corrected in this manner, 
> > > > we look farther.
>
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Snookfever <[email protected]>
> > > > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Wed, January 27, 2010 11:05:56 PM
> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > > Dennis:
>
> > > > Bearings seem fine, spacer is present, spedo tangs looks fine and were/
> > > > are aligned. I cleaned out the factory grease in the spedo and
> > > > replaced with a quality bearing grease. Japan doesnt make good grease
> > > > and they are very skimpy with it. Before setting the wheel to the
> > > > forks, shouldn't I set the forks to the bike? How far above the upper
> > > > clamp should I set each fork?  Left and right the same height? Shop
> > > > manual gives no guidence as to fork placement in the clamps and I did
> > > > not mark them last year when I replaced the fork seals.
>
> > > > I fabricated independent adjustable jacks for each side of the bike to
> > > > hold the front end off the ground while on the center stand so I could
> > > > replace the fork seals last year. However they are not adjustable once
> > > > the weight is on them, so I am going to have to wait until I can get
> > > > some help to square the rear wheel and lower the forks onto the
> > > > wheel.
>
> > > > Glen.
>
> > > > On Jan 27, 9:41 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > Bearings good ? spacer present ? Speedometer drive tangs in proper 
> > > > > place ?  Reassemble and snug (not torque) axle nut. Bike is on center 
> > > > > stand.. right ? Use a carpenters square against the back wheel and 
> > > > > shim one of the center stand feet if need be so that the rear wheel 
> > > > > is a perfect 90 to the floor. You need this as a reference when 
> > > > > putting the front end back together. Bike supported by some kind of 
> > > > > adjustable jack ? Lower front end till it rests on the axle. Leave 
> > > > > calipers off at this point. Lightly snug the fork bottom clamps 
> > > > > against the axle. (finger tight) Check for alignment with rear wheel. 
> > > > > Report back.
>
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: Snookfever <[email protected]>
> > > > > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> > > > > Sent: Wed, January 27, 2010 6:21:36 PM
> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > > > Dennis:
>
> > > > > After an over night soak in blaster and a longer wrench from a
> > > > > neighbor I got the axel apart.  The axel is straight and all parts are
> > > > > present according to my shop manual.
>
> > > > > What next?
>
> > > > > Captain Obvious:  Yes, I have been using "PB"  Blaster and a Heat Gun,
> > > > > would have used a torch but I did not want to melt the bearring dust
> > > > > covers or plastic gears in the spedo. The problem was leverage... size
> > > > > does matter!
>
> > > > > Glen
>
> > > > > On Jan 27, 3:21 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > > I am starting to lose it.
>
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: Kim Paddock <[email protected]>
> > > > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > > > Sent: Wed, January 27, 2010 8:35:10 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > > > > Hey Dennis...will you tell this wingnut that he needs to use PB 
> > > > > > blaster to get his axle nut loose? He listens to you...somewhat.
>
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>
> > > > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > > > Sent: Tue, January 26, 2010 9:36:26 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > > > > I wouldn't reassemble it till I found out why that is. Too many 
> > > > > > parts in there to disregard. Stepped spacer one side, speedometer 
> > > > > > drive other side. Two bearings, spacer inside. Axle nut 54' lbs. 
> > > > > > should be tight but not stuck on unless over tightened. Over 
> > > > > > tightened would damage bearings and pull fork tubes together. 
> > > > > > Missing internal spacer would allow nut to be over tightened. 
> > > > > > Incorrect drive installation would spread forks. Maybe it's fine. 
> > > > > > The bottom line is, it's your butt. For me, I wanna' know. The tire 
> > > > > > was the giveaway that something is wrong. Don't quit untill you 
> > > > > > know and correct it. I can't work this way, my job depends on me 
> > > > > > doing it right. For me, I'd put a socket on the fixed end bolt head 
> > > > > > and clamp a breaker bar in a vise, and use the same deal on the nut 
> > > > > > end. Put a piece of pipe on the bar and...it's coming off. I can't 
> > > > > > let a customer ride a bike I "think" is OK. It better be right.
>
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: Snookfever <[email protected]>
> > > > > > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
> > > > > > Sent: Tue, January 26, 2010 8:42:32 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > > > > Dennis:
>
> > > > > > I cant get the axel nut loose and I am afraid I am going to break a
> > > > > > nuckle or worse something on the bike.   The wheel appears to spin
> > > > > > true.I think the axel is fine.  I would like to proceed with
> > > > > > reassembly.  Please advise.  Please note I have replaced the brake
> > > > > > pads already.
>
> > > > > > Glen
>
> > > > > > On Jan 26, 12:41 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > > > Send pix as attachments. The wear you describe is not right. Pads 
> > > > > > > should wear evenly. Wheel is cocked to do this. Your measurements 
> > > > > > > showed this too. That would cause the contact patch to be 
> > > > > > > off-center. A careful re-assembly is going to take care of this. 
> > > > > > > Still have to inspect the axle and get that right first. Gee, 
> > > > > > > this bike will be totally different when you get done. Handle and 
> > > > > > > brake better.
>
> > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > From: Snookfever <[email protected]>
> > > > > > > To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
> > > > > > > <[email protected]>
> > > > > > > Sent: Tue, January 26, 2010 12:29:33 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: alignment further
>
> > > > > > > Dennis;
>
> > > > > > > I do not know how to post a picture to an existing string.  The 
> > > > > > > pads
> > > > > > > are worn as if on a skew. One pads is thinner at the top then it 
> > > > > > > is at
> > > > > > > the bottom and the other pad is the opposite thicker on  the top 
> > > > > > > then
> > > > > > > on the bottom. Wheel spin was relative to axel in hand.  When in 
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > forks without brakes wheel spins smooth and easy. I took a picture
>
> ...
>
> read more ยป- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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