Teach me to send emails without looking. *DRIVESHAFT side, no aircraft.

Going to go check out a machine shop on Wednesday before an optometry
appointment, see what they'll run me to make the cuts and do the lathe work.

Kurt
On Aug 13, 2012 8:05 AM, "Kurt Nolte" <vturbine.po...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I thought on it some more, and with the sleeves I plan to use I can get
> away with really simple cuts on each side of the swingarm. The sleeve on
> the aircraft driveshaft side will take care of the lip.
>
> Then it's a matter of getting the sleeves turned down and one bushing in
> the rear needs a slope cut into it.
>
> Shouldn't be expensive.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 13, 2012 7:50 AM, "Allen Thomas" <althomas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> **
>> Man you're in deep, good luck with it.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: * Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>
>> *Sender: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Date: *Sun, 12 Aug 2012 14:13:21 -0400
>> *To: *<nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com>
>> *ReplyTo: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Great CB650SC update
>>
>> Update minus pictures, the camera's still in the garage all set up. I'll
>> get pictures later once I have time to resize them and
>>
>> The left side pivot bolt takes a 14mm allen bit. The right side is a 10mm
>> allen, and a 23/24mm or 1" deep socket can be cut down to make the tool for
>> the locking nut. I cut down a gearwrench 23mm deep 3/8" drive socket, using
>> a 1.25" speedbor bit and some scrap wood to make a template to align the
>> keys. They're ~10mm wide and located at an easy 90* from each other: four
>> lines on a square of wood, drill down the middle, cut off the 6-point
>> section of the bit to get to the meatier part of the socket, mark and cut.
>> Freehanded it well enough with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel.
>>
>> When I got the two swingarms out and side by side, there was an immediate
>> issue: the Sabre swingarm is ~1.5" wider at the pivot than the CB650
>> swingarm. HOWEVER, the Nighthawk arm does not butt against the frame on
>> both sides; actual clearance difference is closer to 1/4" rather than the
>> 1"+ the width difference suggests, especially once the step is accounted
>> for on the Nighthawk arm.
>>
>> The bearing diameters are different, that was obvious; the Nighthawk uses
>> NSK 30202 bearings (15x35x11.75mm bore diameter X outer diameter X depth)
>> while the Sabre uses 30203J bearings (17x40x12mm). There is also not enough
>> thickness to the Sabre arm tube to machine the step on the shaft side,
>> though there is PLENTY of depth on the brake side to cut down for clearance.
>>
>> Given my original intention to leave the Nighthawk frame intact, only
>> adding tabs and not cutting any part of the frame, I have a plan. I'm going
>> to have the Sabre swingarm cut to make clearance, then I will fit a steel
>> sleeve bushing into each side, sized to allow me to continue using
>> Nighthawk bearings, seals and grease retainers. Since I am not increasing
>> the weight of the bike in any significant way, these will be fine. These
>> sleeves will allow me to machine the step on the driveshaft side, and give
>> me some additional thickness on the brake side.
>>
>> A stock Nighthawk right side pivot bolt can easily be cut down and
>> machined to accept the closer frame, and should actually be stronger for it
>> with less lever arm.
>>
>> Sleeving to use the Nighthawk bearings allows me to use stock, readily
>> available bearings and seals. Using the bearing codes means they're
>> ~$16/each versus $45+ at a motorcycle site or dealer, and this isn't
>> "direct from China" pricing either; that's $3 each. Not worth it to me, I'd
>> rather have "Made In Japan," "Made In Germany," or "Made In USA" on my
>> bearings.
>>
>> My ONLY concern with this is the difference in tube centerlines for the
>> driveshaft tubes. The Nighthawk arm has a tube centerline, measured from
>> the flat outer face of the bearing tube, of 1.7". The Sabre swingarm,
>> measured similarly, is 2.4", for a difference of .7".
>>
>> I obtained these centerlines by clamping a straight edge to the bearing
>> face on the outside of the swingarm, then measuring to a straight edge held
>> against each wall of the driveshaft tube. There may be an issue with my
>> methodology. 1.7" does not appear to put the driveshaft universal joint in
>> any danger of scraping or rubbing on the outside of the Sabre swingarm
>> tube, though that .7" difference does mean that the joint will be operating
>> at a bit of an angle. Are there shims I can remove to move the angle drive
>> closer to the transmission before we enter the swingarm? I am also going to
>> try getting a little bit of material taken from the Sabre arm to reduce
>> that distance, but I can't take more than a 1/4" that way, IF that. Will
>> still leave me nearly 1/2" out of alignment, but only on the driveshaft
>> tube centerlines, not necessarily the the driveshaft itself.
>>
>> Looking at the way the driveshaft sits in the Nighthawk tube with the
>> final drive case installed, it rides really close to the edge of the tube
>> anyway rather than down the centerline. The Sabre has an extra .4" of
>> clearance on that side (1" even from outer face to inner tube wall vs.
>> Nighthawk's 1.4"). I think I'll be fine.
>>
>> On a non-swingarm (or perhaps tangentially related) I will be building a
>> bracket to move the rear brake pedal assembly 1/2" further from the frame.
>> This will let me mount the rear master cylinder where it won't interfere
>> with the swingarm's movement, and looking at where the footpad ends up it
>> won't be a problem for my big foot.
>>
>> Any thoughts, ideas, questions so far?
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
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>

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