I'm thinking I'll just get a propeller for the top of my helmet.

-Kyle


On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 8:56 AM, Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>wrote:

> You could put wings on your 700, you know. Would look good!
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 13, 2012 9:55 AM, "Kyle Munz" <kyle...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm just trying to offer suggestions to expand your project ;)
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 8:50 AM, Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> The 650 is just too big for a gyro, Kyle. That's the next project, based
>>> on a CB250 frame. :p
>>>
>>> Kurt
>>> On Aug 13, 2012 9:46 AM, "Kyle Munz" <kyle...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I was trying to figure out where to mount the wings, or perhaps just
>>>> make a gyrocopter out of it?
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 7:09 AM, Kurt Nolte 
>>>> <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Teach me to send emails without looking. *DRIVESHAFT side, no
>>>>> aircraft.
>>>>>
>>>>> Going to go check out a machine shop on Wednesday before an optometry
>>>>> appointment, see what they'll run me to make the cuts and do the lathe 
>>>>> work.
>>>>>
>>>>> Kurt
>>>>> On Aug 13, 2012 8:05 AM, "Kurt Nolte" <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I thought on it some more, and with the sleeves I plan to use I can
>>>>>> get away with really simple cuts on each side of the swingarm. The sleeve
>>>>>> on the aircraft driveshaft side will take care of the lip.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Then it's a matter of getting the sleeves turned down and one bushing
>>>>>> in the rear needs a slope cut into it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Shouldn't be expensive.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Kurt
>>>>>> On Aug 13, 2012 7:50 AM, "Allen Thomas" <althomas...@gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> **
>>>>>>> Man you're in deep, good luck with it.
>>>>>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>>>> *From: * Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>
>>>>>>> *Sender: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>>>>>> *Date: *Sun, 12 Aug 2012 14:13:21 -0400
>>>>>>> *To: *<nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com>
>>>>>>> *ReplyTo: * nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>>>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Great CB650SC update
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Update minus pictures, the camera's still in the garage all set up.
>>>>>>> I'll get pictures later once I have time to resize them and
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The left side pivot bolt takes a 14mm allen bit. The right side is a
>>>>>>> 10mm allen, and a 23/24mm or 1" deep socket can be cut down to make the
>>>>>>> tool for the locking nut. I cut down a gearwrench 23mm deep 3/8" drive
>>>>>>> socket, using a 1.25" speedbor bit and some scrap wood to make a 
>>>>>>> template
>>>>>>> to align the keys. They're ~10mm wide and located at an easy 90* from 
>>>>>>> each
>>>>>>> other: four lines on a square of wood, drill down the middle, cut off 
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> 6-point section of the bit to get to the meatier part of the socket, 
>>>>>>> mark
>>>>>>> and cut. Freehanded it well enough with an angle grinder and a cutoff 
>>>>>>> wheel.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When I got the two swingarms out and side by side, there was an
>>>>>>> immediate issue: the Sabre swingarm is ~1.5" wider at the pivot than the
>>>>>>> CB650 swingarm. HOWEVER, the Nighthawk arm does not butt against the 
>>>>>>> frame
>>>>>>> on both sides; actual clearance difference is closer to 1/4" rather than
>>>>>>> the 1"+ the width difference suggests, especially once the step is
>>>>>>> accounted for on the Nighthawk arm.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The bearing diameters are different, that was obvious; the Nighthawk
>>>>>>> uses NSK 30202 bearings (15x35x11.75mm bore diameter X outer diameter X
>>>>>>> depth) while the Sabre uses 30203J bearings (17x40x12mm). There is also 
>>>>>>> not
>>>>>>> enough thickness to the Sabre arm tube to machine the step on the shaft
>>>>>>> side, though there is PLENTY of depth on the brake side to cut down for
>>>>>>> clearance.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Given my original intention to leave the Nighthawk frame intact,
>>>>>>> only adding tabs and not cutting any part of the frame, I have a plan. 
>>>>>>> I'm
>>>>>>> going to have the Sabre swingarm cut to make clearance, then I will fit 
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> steel sleeve bushing into each side, sized to allow me to continue using
>>>>>>> Nighthawk bearings, seals and grease retainers. Since I am not 
>>>>>>> increasing
>>>>>>> the weight of the bike in any significant way, these will be fine. These
>>>>>>> sleeves will allow me to machine the step on the driveshaft side, and 
>>>>>>> give
>>>>>>> me some additional thickness on the brake side.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> A stock Nighthawk right side pivot bolt can easily be cut down and
>>>>>>> machined to accept the closer frame, and should actually be stronger 
>>>>>>> for it
>>>>>>> with less lever arm.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Sleeving to use the Nighthawk bearings allows me to use stock,
>>>>>>> readily available bearings and seals. Using the bearing codes means 
>>>>>>> they're
>>>>>>> ~$16/each versus $45+ at a motorcycle site or dealer, and this isn't
>>>>>>> "direct from China" pricing either; that's $3 each. Not worth it to me, 
>>>>>>> I'd
>>>>>>> rather have "Made In Japan," "Made In Germany," or "Made In USA" on my
>>>>>>> bearings.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My ONLY concern with this is the difference in tube centerlines for
>>>>>>> the driveshaft tubes. The Nighthawk arm has a tube centerline, measured
>>>>>>> from the flat outer face of the bearing tube, of 1.7". The Sabre 
>>>>>>> swingarm,
>>>>>>> measured similarly, is 2.4", for a difference of .7".
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I obtained these centerlines by clamping a straight edge to the
>>>>>>> bearing face on the outside of the swingarm, then measuring to a 
>>>>>>> straight
>>>>>>> edge held against each wall of the driveshaft tube. There may be an 
>>>>>>> issue
>>>>>>> with my methodology. 1.7" does not appear to put the driveshaft 
>>>>>>> universal
>>>>>>> joint in any danger of scraping or rubbing on the outside of the Sabre
>>>>>>> swingarm tube, though that .7" difference does mean that the joint will 
>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>> operating at a bit of an angle. Are there shims I can remove to move the
>>>>>>> angle drive closer to the transmission before we enter the swingarm? I 
>>>>>>> am
>>>>>>> also going to try getting a little bit of material taken from the Sabre 
>>>>>>> arm
>>>>>>> to reduce that distance, but I can't take more than a 1/4" that way, IF
>>>>>>> that. Will still leave me nearly 1/2" out of alignment, but only on the
>>>>>>> driveshaft tube centerlines, not necessarily the the driveshaft itself.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Looking at the way the driveshaft sits in the Nighthawk tube with
>>>>>>> the final drive case installed, it rides really close to the edge of the
>>>>>>> tube anyway rather than down the centerline. The Sabre has an extra .4" 
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> clearance on that side (1" even from outer face to inner tube wall vs.
>>>>>>> Nighthawk's 1.4"). I think I'll be fine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On a non-swingarm (or perhaps tangentially related) I will be
>>>>>>> building a bracket to move the rear brake pedal assembly 1/2" further 
>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>> the frame. This will let me mount the rear master cylinder where it 
>>>>>>> won't
>>>>>>> interfere with the swingarm's movement, and looking at where the footpad
>>>>>>> ends up it won't be a problem for my big foot.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any thoughts, ideas, questions so far?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -Kurt
>>>>>>>
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