Here is a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1v9sKdiwdM  - Does this 
sound like a good idle speed? 

I had just returned from a 30 mile ride, so the engine is all warmed up. 
And I had good acceleration through all the gears by the time I got back. Also, 
I noticed today that it took less time to get to that point! So, maybe the 
seafoam is starting to work? 

I would still like to change the oil to cover all my bases. I bought all 
the supplies this weekend, but ran out of time. So, I'll try and work up 
the courage to tackle that next weekend. Ha ha. 



On Saturday, August 17, 2013 10:10:28 AM UTC-5, nighthawkin wrote:
>
> Rachel, I would just turn it up a little? a good high res vid would work.
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:08 AM, nighthawkin <gswan...@gmail.com<javascript:>
> > wrote:
>
>> yes, that's the oil! no washer needed. you can reuse them many times. if 
>> you see it start to seep oil then replace it.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:05 AM, R. Campbell 
>> <liket...@gmail.com<javascript:>
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> So, is this the type of oil I should get? 
>>>
>>>
>>> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_rotella-t-10w-30-heavy-duty-conventional-motor-oil-%281-gallon%29-shell_8120024-p?searchTerm=rotella+10w-30#fragment-3
>>>
>>> Or should I get the synthetic kind? Is one better for my bike than the 
>>> other? 
>>>
>>> Also, where do you get the drain plug washers? The Haynes manual I have 
>>> says to replace them at each oil change, but it doesn't list a part number 
>>> or anything. 
>>>
>>> Questions! Questions! Questions! :)
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 8:38 AM, nighthawkin 
>>> <gswan...@gmail.com<javascript:>
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> h.d. 30 oil would be to thick of a oil. h.d. 30 oil is more for 
>>>> something that runs at full throttle like your lawn mower or a generator. 
>>>> or if you were to race on a track and then I could see using it. but for 
>>>> the average rider you really want a muti weight oil. imho of coarse.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 7:28 AM, paul annen 
>>>> <green...@gmail.com<javascript:>
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The yahama product is basically M.E.K. (methelethelkeytones, or 
>>>>> aircraft paint stripper) works great, but use with extreme caution.
>>>>>
>>>>> The 250 has no tach and caused me great headaches when i had mine.... 
>>>>> I just delt with it tho. 
>>>>>
>>>>> The 250 is also air cooled, so i recomend generic h.d. 30 oil and 
>>>>> frequent changes due to not having an oil filter i.could find.
>>>>> On Aug 16, 2013 11:09 PM, "nighthawkin" <gswan...@gmail.com<javascript:>> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> bikes with thick oil have this issue also. I can see it being more 
>>>>>> difficult with a 250. rotella 10w30 is more than enough protection. not 
>>>>>> to 
>>>>>> mention it will get you better mpg's.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 16, 2013 at 11:05 PM, Graham Rogers <
>>>>>> grahamjo...@gmail.com <javascript:>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Doesn't sound normal to me but I did have a Honda Rebel 250 that did 
>>>>>>> that - even after I cleaned the carb so it may be normal for that 
>>>>>>> engine, 
>>>>>>>  Graham
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Aug 16, 2013, at 9:00 PM, Rachel Campbell wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> First of all, hot damn, you totally CAN put the side stand down in 
>>>>>>> neutral! This is a life changing discovery. You guys are my heroes. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Second of all, the choke thing. This helped! I started the bike, 
>>>>>>> choke all the way on. After a couple minutes, I went down to 3/4 choke, 
>>>>>>> another couple minutes, then to half choke for another couple minutes. 
>>>>>>> I 
>>>>>>> took off riding with half choke on. Wow! What a difference! I have 
>>>>>>> never 
>>>>>>> had that much power in the low gears. :)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> However, after riding for 5 miles, I tried to shut the choke off, 
>>>>>>> but it wanted to die, so I kept it on for another 2 miles until I could 
>>>>>>> pull over. I closed the choked and then it died. But, I was able to 
>>>>>>> start 
>>>>>>> it right up without choke. Then when I took off, it did the little dead 
>>>>>>> zone thing from first to 2nd, and then by the next stoplight (about 1 
>>>>>>> mile 
>>>>>>> later), it took right off and had a steady acceleration all through the 
>>>>>>> gears for the rest of my ride.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So, is that what it is then? I just need to warm the engine up a 
>>>>>>> lot? Does that sound normal for a 250 to need choke on for 8+ miles 
>>>>>>> of riding with choke? 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 15, 2013 3:54:51 PM UTC-5, nighthawkin wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> i think thats when trying to start it. once started  and its 
>>>>>>>> running you can give it throttle with no problem and while riding. 
>>>>>>>> what i 
>>>>>>>> do is choke it to start it then after warmed up turn choke off, put in 
>>>>>>>> gear 
>>>>>>>> then choke it on again and ride. after a mile or 2 she should be 
>>>>>>>> plenty 
>>>>>>>> warm enough by then to not need choke. that is if in fact its just a 
>>>>>>>> cold 
>>>>>>>> running issue?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 4:48 PM, Rachel Campbell <
>>>>>>>> liket...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> How can I tell how long I should leave the choke on? 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Also, during my MSF class they said not to open throttle if choke 
>>>>>>>>> is open. I didn't think to ask why at the time. Is it okay to ride 
>>>>>>>>> the bike 
>>>>>>>>> with the choke open? How do I know when it would be ready to close it?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Sorry if these seem like basic questions! I'm really new at this. 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 15, 2013 2:44:48 PM UTC-5, Allen wrote: 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> You are definitely turning off the choke too soon if the bike 
>>>>>>>>>> stumbles or dies when you open the throttle. The carbs do sound like 
>>>>>>>>>> they 
>>>>>>>>>> may be dirty though.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  
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