This story demonstrated an insufficient age'd ground contact between frame
and engine so I definitely don't want to remove the original ground cable
from the starter housing as this is by far the biggest load.
The second lead really doesn't hurt and ensures proper ground for any load
on the bike now.
The USB/Voltmeter is just one of dozens import devices with handlebar mount
found at many online dealer for less than 15 Bucks - nothing special but
sufficient to show a voltage trend.
craigc...@gmail.com schrieb am Dienstag, 19. Juli 2022 um 16:58:15 UTC+2:
> Thank you Frank
>
> That is very helpful! I now wonder if it would be beneficial to remove the
> factory battery to starter ground (or if it is a moot point based
> on how the battery to frame ground works).
>
> By the way, what USB charger with Voltmeter are you using?
>
> Cheers
>
> Craig
>
> 1983 CB650SC Wineberry
> Last Ridden in 2000
> Revival in Progress
>
>
> On Monday, July 18, 2022 at 5:14:37 PM UTC-5 Frank Hawkwarts wrote:
>
>> Craig, there is probably not much to share except for the lead with
>> sample ring lugs and the final cable attached from the battery to the seat
>> mount - side by side with the original ground lead from the battery to the
>> starter housing (the small third one feeds an USB charger with Voltmeter on
>> my handlebar)
>> The correct Ring Lug sizes are M6 at battery and M8 at seat mount which
>> can be crimped with a dedicated crimping tool but any other pliers will
>> also do.
>>
>> [image: IMG_0336.JPG] [image: IMG_0335.JPG]
>>
>> craigc...@gmail.com schrieb am Freitag, 15. Juli 2022 um 14:50:07 UTC+2:
>>
>>> Thanks for posting this solution Frank!
>>>
>>> *"To fix this easily, I followed the hint found in the electrical
>>> troubleshooting chapter of the Nighthawk Wiki and added another (10mm2)
>>> cable from the battery negative to the frame where the blank M8 seat
>>> fixture was the best place I could find.*
>>> *The rumor about seeing this mod with 85' models was *likely* approved
>>> by watching dozens of 650 nighthawk pictures on the web where some later
>>> models did not show the thick black NEG lead on the lower starter housing
>>> but the upper black PLUS only."*
>>>
>>> Do you have pictures of this modification to share?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 3:56:24 PM UTC-5 Frank Hawkwarts wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just want to close this case with the solution as reference although
>>>> the most important conclusion wasn't new at all.
>>>> In my last post I bridged the connected! green ground wire over to the
>>>> battery neg pole which apparently failed using a thin measuring lead with
>>>> alligator clips.
>>>>
>>>> By Ohm's law, the total resistance is smaller than the smallest single
>>>> resistance but it just did not bypass the supposed ground dilemma althoug
>>>> it definitely existed.
>>>> For example, I easily confirmed a voltage drop of 0.7V between any load
>>>> (+) to frame while the ignition switch and headlight was ON ("no current,
>>>> no resistance").
>>>> Once I only connected the pulled green wire from the regulator to bat
>>>> (-) with a thick jumper cable in another late night distress, it all lit
>>>> up
>>>> immediately!
>>>>
>>>> With the 83' model, the battery negative is mounted to the starter
>>>> housing on the engine but any load return is attached to the frame and
>>>> unfortunately mainly by one single wire under the tank at the coils bolt.
>>>> So the core issue (beyond a tired regulator and/or stator dropping
>>>> about 0.3V) was the distracted grounding between the engine and the frame.
>>>> Despite of having double-checked every pin, connector, wire and mount,
>>>> I just cannot fix the contact resistance between the engine and frame
>>>> without dodgy disassemble.
>>>> To fix this easily, I followed the hint found in the electrical
>>>> troubleshooting chapter of the Nighthawk Wiki and added another (10mm2)
>>>> cable from the battery negative to the frame where the blank M8 seat
>>>> fixture was the best place I could find.
>>>> The rumor about seeing this mod with 85' models was *likely* approved
>>>> by watching dozens of 650 nighthawk pictures on the web where some later
>>>> models did not show the thick black NEG lead on the lower starter housing
>>>> but the upper black PLUS only.
>>>>
>>>> And woohooo, the first test drive was like riding a new bike where all
>>>> feels fresh and more agile which may (or may not) results from full
>>>> ignition power.
>>>> Nevertheless, it was a great experience and I really appreciate your
>>>> great engagement on multiple channels to reveal this electrical enigma :o)
>>>> Thank you!
>>>>
>>>> Reference values with fully loaded battery and new rectifier/regulator
>>>> and stator:
>>>> VAC from alternator on the three yellow leads while engine running:
>>>> 12.5 - 14V as demanded by RR DC
>>>> VDC charging: 12.2V @idle/1200, 13V @1700, 14V @2800, 14.2V constant at
>>>> @3000 and up
>>>>
>>>> Reference links:
>>>>
>>>> https://sites.google.com/site/nighthawkwiki/maintenance/electrical-troubleshooting
>>>>
>>>>
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