Just want to close this case with the solution as reference although the
most important conclusion wasn't new at all.
In my last post I bridged the connected! green ground wire over to the
battery neg pole which apparently failed using a thin measuring lead with
alligator clips.
By Ohm's law, the total resistance is smaller than the smallest single
resistance but it just did not bypass the supposed ground dilemma althoug
it definitely existed.
For example, I easily confirmed a voltage drop of 0.7V between any load (+)
to frame while the ignition switch and headlight was ON ("no current, no
resistance").
Once I only connected the pulled green wire from the regulator to bat (-)
with a thick jumper cable in another late night distress, it all lit up
immediately!
With the 83' model, the battery negative is mounted to the starter housing
on the engine but any load return is attached to the frame and
unfortunately mainly by one single wire under the tank at the coils bolt.
So the core issue (beyond a tired regulator and/or stator dropping about
0.3V) was the distracted grounding between the engine and the frame.
Despite of having double-checked every pin, connector, wire and mount, I
just cannot fix the contact resistance between the engine and frame without
dodgy disassemble.
To fix this easily, I followed the hint found in the electrical
troubleshooting chapter of the Nighthawk Wiki and added another (10mm2)
cable from the battery negative to the frame where the blank M8 seat
fixture was the best place I could find.
The rumor about seeing this mod with 85' models was *likely* approved by
watching dozens of 650 nighthawk pictures on the web where some later
models did not show the thick black NEG lead on the lower starter housing
but the upper black PLUS only.
And woohooo, the first test drive was like riding a new bike where all
feels fresh and more agile which may (or may not) results from full
ignition power.
Nevertheless, it was a great experience and I really appreciate your great
engagement on multiple channels to reveal this electrical enigma :o)
Thank you!
Reference values with fully loaded battery and new rectifier/regulator and
stator:
VAC from alternator on the three yellow leads while engine running: 12.5 -
14V as demanded by RR DC
VDC charging: 12.2V @idle/1200, 13V @1700, 14V @2800, 14.2V constant at
@3000 and up
Reference links:
https://sites.google.com/site/nighthawkwiki/maintenance/electrical-troubleshooting
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