Dave,

There are a few ways to go about this.  First of all, the diffuser on
the flash only softens the light, not weakens it (this is when TTL is
used - the weaker light will be bumped up by the sensor), so that
option is only when the flash itself is on manual.

Since the PZ-1 doesn't have separate flash compensation you can
basically do one of two things.

1) Flash on TTL - camera on hypermanual.  Meter the scene normally and
set the shutter/aperture - now set the camera exposure compensation to
whatever you want (-1 for starters) and take your shot.  Since the
camera is on manual, the scene will be lit properly.  The meter will
read the scene for the TTL flash and since you have compensation on,
will lower the flash output.  The clumsiness to this is if the light
or subjects change often, you have to keep doing it.  One way would be
to remember that you have compensation on (-1, for example) and then
open up a stop after taking your hyper manual reading.

2) Flash on Auto (red or green).  You can either set the camera
aperture to a different reading than the flash recommends
(compensation) or set the recommended aperture and use the ISO setting
as compensation.  You would still meter the camera as if you didn't
have a flash attached - here, AV would be the best choice as you don't
want to change the aperture in relation to the flash's auto metering.

My personal opinion is to use the 1st technique.  It is probably more
flexible and less confusing to think about.  This should work pretty
well with hyper manual.  Just remember how much compensation you have
dialed in and adjust the camera.

One thing to remember is that you can't exceed the flash synch of the
camera for shutter speed.

With the PZ-1p, you just set the flash to TTL and camera has a
separate flash compensation setting-works slick.

With the MZ-S, *ist and *istD coupled with the AF360FGZ you dial
compensation into the flash itself and can set the flash and body for
high speed synch allowing you to use any shutter speed, keeping in
mind that the faster the shutter, the lower the range of the flash.

HTH,


Bruce


Monday, March 22, 2004, 7:31:43 PM, you wrote:
bcin> Ok, i see that now Bruce.However is it best to shoot the
bcin> outdoor photos with flash on 
bcin> TTL and meter in camera for face shadows then.I tend to
bcin> lean to the HYP M on the PZ-1.I
bcin> would hazard 
bcin> a ques that one way to lower out put is with a diffuser, omni bounce etc.

bcin> So i think what i'm trying to say is:
bcin> If i meter ambient light on scene,in Hyp M mode and keep the 280T on TTL BUT use 
a
bcin> diffuser or the 
bcin> pocket omni bounce i have, that should lower the out put
bcin> so the flash will just remove
bcin> some shadow on 
bcin> the faces.Or meter as above then put flash on one of the
bcin> Auto green/red modes and difuse
bcin> that would 
bcin> be ok to then.?

bcin> I think thats the confusing part for me at the
bcin> moment,what setting on the flash to use.TTL
bcin> Auto or MS or 
bcin> M
>> 
>> I struggled with the thought process at first myself.  I have found
>> that by practicing it and shooting over and over observing the
>> behavior and effects that it makes much more sense now.  Since you
>> have a digital body, that is the easiest way to learn and observe.
>> Pick a subject where you have shadows on the face and then start with
>> no flash, -3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2 compensation and you will see what I
>> mean.  For positive compensation it works better if you are not
>> shooting manual mode as you would get overexposure - if in one of the
>> auto modes (camera) then it would compensate for the higher flash
>> output.
>> 
bcin> I do have the digital body but dont use flash much so its
bcin> the 285HV for now.Although it
bcin> does have vari 
bcin> power on it from full to 1/2 to 1/16.
bcin> Maybe its best to try that on the D body and see what
bcin> level gets rid of the shadows and
bcin> just use that 
bcin> out door and the TTL indoors.My wife will be there for
bcin> moral and holding support<vbg>


bcin> Thanks and terrible sorry for the rambles and the not getting it quickly parts:-)
bcin> Dave

>> -- 
>> Best regards,
>> Bruce
                        




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