The grey card is a good tool. But every time you use the grey card, take
a reading with your avering meter, center weighted meter or what have
you and see how it differs. Then ask yourself why it differs. Is it
because there are numerous bright areas or heavy shadows? Eventually,
you'll learn to judge the reading of other meters in respect to ambient
light. Then you can begin to fine tune your exposures when you need more
highlight detail or more shadow detail. Grey card exposures, like
incident meter readings, will work for 95% of the shots you'll want to
take. But if you can learn what effect different kinds of lighting have
on exposure, you can get great exposures 100% of the time. And you'll
know when an in camera meter can be trusted.
Paul

"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" wrote:
> 
> Yep....
> works for moi as well.  The way I look at it is this way:  maybe my technique is 
>wrong; maybe my theory is incorrect; maybe my 3 meters are not sync'd (spot, ttl, 
>incident/reflective) but when I use the grey card and any one of those meters I get 
>great exposures.... so... as long as the exposures are bang on I can continue to 
>research new techniques/theories while still getting decent images.
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:09:28 -0400 (EDT)
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: new additions to the camera bag
> 
> I know I'll get some flak but after runing a roll of
> B&W ( dark 2 stops under exposed ) and then deciding
> to try a grey card test I realise the grey card and
> minolta meter have to go where ever the camera goes.
> Yes I have seen it with my own eyes that all light
> meters see grey, by metering reflected off th grey
> card the exposures were almost dead on. So never again
> will I trust any meter, I'll trust the grey card.
> 
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