Very informative, Matthew. It is quite an engine: this used to propell McCarthy's Ginetta G20 in the 2007 one make raceseries and is virtually new. It raced three races at the end of the season and won all three, before this engine option was banned for the next season. The engine used to have bespoke rwd parts, but they had to go in order to fit the Quantum, of course. All in all, it took me nearly a year to get all th eright parts and to change parts and find the right waterpump pulley.
I recognise certain aspects of the situations you mention: the Ford ECU does tend to rise the revs when rolling for example. The ECU I am using now is probably not the correct one for this engine in Ford terms (XR2i, 8V), but understanding the MS, you know what's happening inside. It does "self learn" in certain situations, but only when the engine is at operating temperature and with the O2 sensor as a reference. So, how does it do that at cold idling speed? Today I did the recalibration at working temperature of the idlingspeed, setting the base speed (@700rpm) and determined the normal idlingspeed (@900rpm) following Haynes instructions. See if the engine doesn't stall anymore when reversing. The revcounter needs to be adjusted , still, with two diodes, because of the two coils instead of one. It is on my "to do" list. Because the escort rad is somewhat deeper than the cvh one, the nosecone didn't fit! That's not amusing at 11pm, the day before MOT. So, I ditched the electric fan in fafour of some freshly made brackets to take the rad further in the car and asked the missus to help me fit the nosecone. When everything fitted, we took a well deserved drink! Mot with no problems at all! Even got a discount! So the electric fan is also on my "to do" list. Yours is on the front of the rad, I see. (old pics in Jims site, before turbo-era) So intake temperatures could be rather high, with the filter next to the battery, behind the rad. Not sure I can fit a cool-air hose from underneath to the filter. Will see to that. On your car, there's no battery in the subframe, the filtercasing taking up all the space. In that "corner" it is easier to make a cold air intake. Here, the intake tube crosses the rad-top-hose.. Driving is such a new experience! Your motto: "more power, more fun" defenately sticks with me! Thanks again for the input, would be pleased with maps. Cheers, Rolf On 15 mei, 14:33, "Matthew Wastell" <matt...@wastell.eu> wrote: > Nice one! > > If and when you do switch to MS I've probably still got my RS1800 maps > available, although saying that I can't remember if we only put the MS on > the 2000 engine. I'm using the original MS board. (Jim correct me if I'm > wrong) Either way the map should be pretty close. The only thing to watch > out for is most of the base maps available for zetecs use a 2 squirt per > cycle injection method (or was it 4?). This is best for emissions, but does > not allow quite enough resolution on idle if you use larger injectors. > Switching it to a 1 squirt per cycle (or was it 2?), fixes that but you > have to mess about with the maps a little bit. If you are planning any > upgrades later, I'd switch it as early as possible. > > Watch your intake air temps when the weather is warm, I found I was pulling > in 50 or 60 degrees air with the air filter where you have it, and on a very > hot day it would not be happy when on the motorway (hot tarmac and hot air > sitting just above it) plus all the hot air from the radiator. I added a > couple of bonnet vents and later switched to an enclosed K&N appolo with a > cold feed just above the side light. I also switched to a Turbo engine at > the same time which adds lots of heat, but I'm sure the overall temps are > significantly reduced. > > One annoying thing I found with the RS1800 ECU was that it tries to keep the > revs a bit higher when there is any speed detected- I was doing my advanced > driver training at the time, and you are meant to break and reduce the speed > in gear, and only change gear when the braking was done. If you were in 5th > and trying to break down to say 20-30mph, the engine would fight and try to > keep the revs around 1500 rpm minimum I recall. Disconnecting the speed > sensor fixed that and did not seem to have any detrimental effects > elsewhere. > > The original rev counter I found over read by about 500rpm, which explained > why I found it hard to get it to idle well as I was tuning it to tick over > at 650rpm! I should have realised reading the MS gauges. I can't remember > if we did it with the Ford ECU but with the MS we bent out the throttle stop > by a tiny amount before I figured out the code to control the idle speed > control vale, that may also help you with the Ford ECU. > > I know it's perhaps too late now, but one interesting thing, was when I > swapped from RS1800 to 2000 zetec, overall fuel consumption improved. Like > wise when switching to MS. > > Hope you get lots of nice days to enjoy it. > > Matthew > > From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com [mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com] > On Behalf Of Rolf > Sent: 14 May 2012 19:54 > To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com > Subject: [Quantum Owners] Zetec-ed > > Another zetec conversion has been done! > > I am happy to say my 2+2 is now equipped with a RS1800 engine. The plan was > to fit my Megasquirt ecu, but due to lack of time for new MOT, I decided to > fit an XR2i ecu for now. > > It is a very basic ecu, but does the trick. It makes it posible to attach > the Mega at any time straight onto the existing loom. > > As you can see in the pics, I didn't have to modify the subframe too much, > just the upper bar for camcover clearance. > > By replacing the multi-V pulley to old fashion V pulley, with a crackshaft > pulley from a PSA engine, and cvh cranckshaftwheel, there is enough space to > clear the frame. > > Also the alternator on bespoke brackets with mini spanner is a new zetec > version, but fitted with a cvh wheel. > > All in all is it a combination of (XR2i) cvh and zetec parts, so when you're > going this route : store everything, until the project is finished! > > Still some minor issues to clear, but went to work with no problems, altough > idleing when cold is not perfect yet. > > Rolf > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Quantum Owners Group" group. > To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en > > IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" > basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum > Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or > in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any > person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or > alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained > within this or related message(s). -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related message(s).
