If the EDIS and wiring loom was from a XR2i CVH then i think you'll find that the green rev counter wire is just connected to one of the coils, Ford recalibrated the rev counters to handle only half the pulses. On the Zetecs they decided this was a bad idea (i agree) and used a dedicated ECU output with the normal number of pulses again.

If you connect your rev counter to pin 11 on the EDIS module then it should work ok. You will probably need to get an extra pin from a spare EDIS connector as it's probably not fitted. Remove the suppressor if it's fitted inline with the green wire near the coil, you don't need it now you aren't connecting to an actual coil wire.

Jim




-----Original Message----- From: Rolf
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 8:22 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Zetec-ed

The green wire from Edis is dedicated to the rev counter and i did use
that, but apparently it does not give the correct signal to the
standard mk2dash revcounter. Have I missed something?   Pin 11 is a
CTO, clean tacho output, is the one I used.
Otherwise, may be the twocoil-diode solution will work, when the
signal is taken from the coils directly.

Rolf
On 16 mei, 09:40, "Jim Hearne" <j...@quantums.info> wrote:
On the existing Ford system i guess you have the external EDIS module
driving the coil pack ?, this has a correct rev counter output on an unused
pin, i forget which pin now but you can find the pinout on the net.
Once you have the MS it has a dedicated rev counter output.

Jim







-----Original Message-----
From: Rolf
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:42 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Zetec-ed

Very informative, Matthew.

It is quite an engine: this used to propell McCarthy's Ginetta G20 in
the 2007 one make raceseries and is virtually new.
It raced three races at the end of the season and won all three,
before this engine option was banned for the next season.
The engine used to have bespoke rwd parts, but they had to go in order
to fit the Quantum, of course. All in all, it took me nearly a year to
get all th eright parts and to change parts and find the right
waterpump pulley.

I recognise certain aspects of the situations you mention: the Ford
ECU does tend to rise the revs when rolling for example.
The ECU I am using now is probably not the correct one for this engine
in Ford terms (XR2i, 8V), but understanding the MS, you know what's
happening inside.  It does "self learn" in certain situations, but
only when the engine is at operating temperature and with the O2
sensor as a reference.
So, how does it do that at cold idling speed? Today I did the
recalibration at working temperature of the idlingspeed, setting the
base speed (@700rpm) and determined the normal idlingspeed (@900rpm)
following Haynes instructions.
See if the engine doesn't stall anymore when reversing.

The revcounter needs to be adjusted , still, with two diodes, because
of the two coils instead of one. It is on my "to do" list.

Because the escort rad is somewhat deeper than the cvh one, the
nosecone didn't fit! That's not amusing at 11pm, the day before MOT.
So, I ditched the electric fan in fafour of some freshly made brackets
to take the rad further in the car and asked the missus to help me fit
the nosecone. When everything fitted, we took a well deserved drink!
Mot with no problems at all! Even got a discount! So the electric fan
is also on my "to do"  list. Yours is on the front of the rad, I see.
(old pics in Jims site, before turbo-era)

So intake temperatures could be rather high, with the filter next to
the battery, behind the rad. Not sure I can fit a cool-air hose from
underneath to the filter. Will see to that.
On your car, there's no battery in the subframe, the filtercasing
taking up all the space. In that "corner" it is easier to make a cold
air intake. Here, the intake tube crosses the rad-top-hose..

Driving is such a new experience! Your motto: "more power, more fun"
defenately sticks with me!

Thanks again for the input, would be pleased with maps.

Cheers,
Rolf

On 15 mei, 14:33, "Matthew Wastell" <matt...@wastell.eu> wrote:
> Nice one!

> If and when you do switch to MS I've probably still got my RS1800 maps
> available, although saying that I can't remember if we only put the MS > on > the 2000 engine. I'm using the original MS board. (Jim correct me if > I'm
> wrong)  Either way the map should be pretty close.  The only thing to
> watch
> out for is most of the base maps available for zetecs use a 2 squirt per
> cycle injection method (or was it 4?).  This is best for emissions, but
> does
> not allow quite enough resolution on idle if you use larger injectors.
> Switching it to a 1 squirt per cycle (or was it 2?),  fixes that but you
> have to mess about with the maps a little bit.  If you are planning any
> upgrades later, I'd switch it as early as possible.

> Watch your intake air temps when the weather is warm, I found I was
> pulling
> in 50 or 60 degrees air with the air filter where you have it, and on a
> very
> hot day it would not be happy when on the motorway (hot tarmac and hot > air > sitting just above it) plus all the hot air from the radiator. I added > a > couple of bonnet vents and later switched to an enclosed K&N appolo with > a > cold feed just above the side light. I also switched to a Turbo engine > at > the same time which adds lots of heat, but I'm sure the overall temps > are
> significantly reduced.

> One annoying thing I found with the RS1800 ECU was that it tries to keep
> the
> revs a bit higher when there is any speed detected- I was doing my
> advanced
> driver training at the time, and you are meant to break and reduce the
> speed
> in gear, and only change gear when the braking was done.  If you were in
> 5th
> and trying to break down to say 20-30mph, the engine would fight and try
> to
> keep the revs around 1500 rpm minimum I recall.  Disconnecting the speed
> sensor fixed that and did not seem to have any detrimental effects
> elsewhere.

> The original rev counter I found over read by about 500rpm, which
> explained
> why I found it hard to get it to idle well as I was tuning it to tick > over
> at 650rpm!  I should have realised reading the MS gauges.  I can't
> remember
> if we did it with the Ford ECU but with the MS we bent out the throttle
> stop
> by a tiny amount before I figured out the code to control the idle speed
> control vale, that may also help you with the Ford ECU.

> I know it's perhaps too late now, but one interesting thing, was when I
> swapped from RS1800 to 2000 zetec, overall fuel consumption improved.
> Like
> wise when switching to MS.

> Hope you get lots of nice days to enjoy it.

> Matthew

> From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Rolf
> Sent: 14 May 2012 19:54
> To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [Quantum Owners] Zetec-ed

> Another zetec conversion has been done!

> I am happy to say my 2+2 is now equipped with a RS1800 engine. The plan
> was
> to fit my Megasquirt ecu, but due to lack of time for new MOT, I decided
> to
> fit an XR2i ecu for now.

> It is a very basic ecu, but does the trick. It makes it posible to > attach
> the Mega at any time straight onto the existing loom.

> As you can see in the pics, I didn't have to modify the subframe too > much,
> just the upper bar for camcover clearance.

> By replacing the multi-V pulley to old fashion V pulley, with a > crackshaft > pulley from a PSA engine, and cvh cranckshaftwheel, there is enough > space
> to
> clear the frame.

> Also the alternator on bespoke brackets with mini spanner is a new zetec
> version, but fitted with a cvh wheel.

> All in all is it a combination of (XR2i) cvh and zetec parts, so when
> you're
> going this route : store everything, until the project is finished!

> Still some minor issues to clear, but went to work with no problems,
> altough
> idleing when cold is not perfect yet.

> Rolf

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