Because 20/22 is a lot less than 40/32, and I want a LOW lowest gear for steep 
dirt hillclimbing.

Also, the following is secondary and wasn’t thought of in the design phase, but 
it’s a lot simpler shifting the front since the bike has no derailleur hanger. 
That cable-less derailleur as shown would not be in the optimum spot if it had 
a cable and were used as a shifter. But as a tensioner, it’s just fine.


> On Feb 7, 2019, at 8:56 AM, Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> James: Why 3 rings, fd and rd instead of 3 cogs and rd, particularly since a 
> tooth in the rear gives more difference than a tooth in the front? Not 
> complaining, just asking.
> 
> On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 9:48 AM James Warren <jimcwar...@earthlink.net 
> <mailto:jimcwar...@earthlink.net>> wrote:
> 
> I first set this up this way in 2005. I recently made it better with a 
> Suntour microdrive crank with chainrings of 42-32-20 and an old (AF) front 
> derailleur, which in theory isn’t supposed to work with that crank, but it’s 
> perfect. The rear derailleur is just an extreme chain tensioner, no cable in 
> it. My bike set up this way was in RR36, but now with this crank, it has a 
> wider range of gears. My thinking was to set up three distinct 
> single-speedish modes. When things get challenging and I’m in the middle 
> ring, I stand or push harder and try not to shift. And then I have the 20T 
> option for the crazy or sustained hills (especially the dirt ones, which I 
> live near and love to climb.)
> 
> Anyway, I love this set up. Also upgraded with Bosco bar, excellent Sunrace 
> underbar thumbie with fake clicks, which is perfect for the three rings. And 
> over the years, I got an attractive downtube clamp-on cable stop. Quickbeams 
> are so versatile.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
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