Because the spread out wheels is like riding a horse in stride. Yes, I thought of a techie answer, but frankly that never says anything of substance that anyone can instantly if ever relate to. It's like the teacher talking in Charlie Brown ..... wah wah wah ...... whatever !
Picture riding a horse ...... feel that stability.... that sureness of the hooves flying through the air and landing in grace and elegance ..... that "wow" ... that smile on your face ..... What's funny to me is that despite all the theories of the world, still no one has a clue of "how life works".... because trying to figure things out is "barking up the wrong tree". It's never happen cuz nothing ever happen-ed. ..... teeheehee. On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:53:55 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote: > My very non-knowledgeable answer is the long front-center allows for high > stack-height and a slack fork angle with way-reach-back bars like Boscos > without cramping the rider. My custom was specifically designed for those > bars and to be ridden with them way up there to accommodate arthritis in my > hands (I can't lean forward much) and the front-center is wayyyy longer > than I would have believed would work for me. It's perfect and turns > similar to every other Riv I've owned. > > Summary: I think it matters a lot what bars you're going to use. Most Rivs > these days aren't designed with straight-and-flat bars or drops. > > On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 11:39:33 AM UTC-7 reca...@gmail.com wrote: > >> Hello All, >> >> Since I've been *very* slowly getting into DIY framebuilding over the >> past few years, and by way of it, trying to better understand why some >> geometries work for me and my kind of riding over others, I have come to >> appreciate the method of builders like Waltworks in terms of using >> front-center as a guide for putting together a frame geometry with relation >> to getting the rider's weight distribution the way they want it (i.e. >> getting the bike to ride and fit the way one wants). >> >> A corollary to this is that a builder might then use, like Waltworks the >> following method (paraphrased): >> >> >> 1. pick the trail you want >> 2. pick where you want your wheels to be >> 3. pick BB height >> 4. make sure the person can then fit the bike in the desired >> position(s) through HT length, stem, bars, etc. >> >> So my long-winded question is, with Grant's emphasis on getting more >> upright and weight to the back while making the chainstays longer to >> accommodate this, what might be the corresponding logic of making the >> front-center length of the Susie/Wolbis almost so long? Is it a matter of >> making the total wheelbase longer or a function of the slacker HT and >> corresponding fork offset/trail), a combo? Perhaps I am wondering most >> importantly is, what are the ride characteristics of such a choice? Does it >> still handle in the way that most other high-trail bikes characteristically >> do? I ask because I am really interested in this design, understand the >> benefits of longer chainstays especially for my kind of more upright >> position and preferred weight distribution, but have still found that my >> favorite kind of bike that I have ridden so far has a longish rear-center, >> lowish trail, and a front-center about 10cm shorter than that of the >> Susie. I am by no means a low trail evangelist, so I guess what I am >> looking for are some impressions in terms of front-end handling of the >> bike? >> >> Thank you all and please excuse (direct me to the discussions) if this >> has been covered here before. >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/0be456ef-a3cf-418b-972e-4e4d52bf19dfn%40googlegroups.com.
