Nice build. Off-topic alert. I recently changed my Clem to 1x and am using 
a 40T chainring and 11-48 cassette. I never use the 48 and think I could 
easily have gone with a 11-42. I'm interested to find out how you do on 
steep inclines with the 42/36 low gear with this setup.
Thanks,
Doug

On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 6:37:17 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Well, if we’re sharing pictures. I don’t have any glamor shots yet but 
> here’s what I’ve got right now (pardon the messy house, just moved).
>
> From back to front:
> * Velocity Cliffhanger rear wheel with Velo-Orange hub
> * 10spd 11-36 cassette
> * Deore derailleur 
> * Shimano Alivio T4000 v-brakes
> * B17 saddle w/ Randy Joe Fab waxed canvas cover
> * Kaloy seatpost 
> * Velo-Orange 1x crank with 42T ring
> * 60mm stem
> * Velo-Orange Rando bars
> * Grepp bar cotton wrap
> * Tektro aero levers
> * Velo-Orange rack
> * Cliffhanger rim, Shutter Precision PD-8 hub
>
> Riding on 29x2.2 SimWorks Super Yummy tires
> Bag by The Spindle ATL.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 6:16 PM Stephen <cavell....@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm a joe appaloosa rider and I've had mine set up at different times 
>> with: Loscos, Riv Bullmoose, Nitto B802AA, and currently its got the 
>> classic albatross.
>>
>> [image: appaloosa.jpg]
>> Pic for reference because all threads need bike pictures :)
>>
>> I'm going to be devil's advocate and support shortening the stem and 
>> making your drops work. 
>>
>>    - First off its the most affordable and quickest solution, granted 
>>    you are pleased with all other aspects of the handlebar setup. Also, you 
>>    can get a pretty good idea of how much to shorten your stem since its the 
>>    only variable changing. 
>>    - Secondly, I selfishly want to see some more drop bar set up 
>>    appaloosas. It seems really rare to do so, but lately I've been thinking 
>> it 
>>    could work really well on the bike. I've seen more modern atlantis' with 
>>    drops, and if anything the Joe is a slightly more road oriented version 
>> of 
>>    that bike. List member Takahashi's Hunqapillar set up with drops also 
>> comes 
>>    to mind.
>>    - Thirdly, I don't think the Joe is so super long that it needs to be 
>>    dedicated to swept back bars. This depends on your body's relation to 
>> your 
>>    frame size of course, but on my 60cm, loscos + 11cm stem felt too 
>>    short/cramped. For myself I've realized that if I go with swept back bars 
>> I 
>>    need ones that sweep forward too, like the albatross.
>>    
>> Another opinion with regards to albastache/mustache bars: if you are 
>> thinking of running them with flat bar type levers I'd say scrap that idea 
>> and just get albatrosses. thats a case of using something in a way it 
>> wasn't designed to be used and i think youd be happier with albatrosses. I 
>> have a set of albastache and I'd say it works best with the classic road 
>> brake lever setup and bar end shifters, or possibly bar end brake levers. 
>> and as previously stated they require a slightly shorter stem than an 
>> equivalent drop bar setup.
>>
>> And finally, to devil's advocate my devil's advocate... Rivendells are 
>> such fun bikes to experiment with different setups on. I love playing 
>> around with different handlebars and parts to spice up my bike and make it 
>> feel new again. Different handlebars are better at different things, and 
>> I've learned theres no perfect pick. I'm always gonna be swapping 
>> handlebars, sometimes to meet a certain situation, or just because I'm 
>> bored. if swept backs are calling your name, you might as well answer (i 
>> vote albatross or billie). 
>> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 4:48:01 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> I take all claims of a certain frame supposedly being designed for a 
>>> certain type of bar with a grain of salt as there are endless variables 
>>> that come in to play. The first is the rider themselves, not just body 
>>> proportions but flexibility, core strength and their ability to ride in a 
>>> position suitable for them. Same with bars and stems, none are limited to 
>>> or by each other, a given frame or rider. It's really up to the rider to 
>>> play around with their bike as no one else experiences your bike from your 
>>> unique perspective. I realize this is a online group to talk about stuff 
>>> and throw ideas around though, so playing a game of "what if" inevitable. 
>>>
>>> All that said, I looked at the geo charts @ bikeinsights and I don't see 
>>> the Appa as being particularly long in reach at all. I compared it to a 
>>> bike I have, a 60 Bomba, and a road frame I do not have, the Sam. the sizes 
>>> can be changed of course. The Bomba has 24mm reach than a Appa to for me 
>>> running a drop bar would be easy. Ted says the reach was too far, but I'd 
>>> want to know if the saddles were int he same relative position ? The Appa 
>>> has a 71.5d STA and the Bomba a 72. That equates to about a 6.5mm 
>>> difference. So if you didn't know and just set up your saddles on the same 
>>> positions on the rails you wouldn't even know that one was further back by 
>>> 6.5mm. While that may not seem like much, it does all add up. 
>>>
>>> If you do choose a swept back bar nay to the Billie in my opnion, it's 
>>> too long rearward for your modest needs. An Albastache bar would also 
>>> require a very short stem to get a shorter reach, so if you're gonna do 
>>> that you may as try a shorter stem for the drop bars first. I've had both 
>>> steel and AL Albatross bars and I prefer the steel as I use it with bar end 
>>> brake levers and thumbshifters mounted around the inside of the curve so I 
>>> have the entire bar free. It "may" have more rise than you want though. I 
>>> tried it flipped before and it wasn't what I expected, I hated it. The top 
>>> curve actually feels better with the rise up and I thought reverso may feel 
>>> better, but it didn't. It looks cool, but felt awful. I have no experience 
>>> with a Choco bar, but there's no way in h-e-double toothpicks I'd ever get 
>>> a bar fixed to a stem. Again, looks cool, but offers zero flexibility. I 
>>> don't suppose a Choco was made in steel, but I recall Blue Lug having a 
>>> steel bar somewhat similar, a M356 ? Yeah, that's it ! 
>>> https://global.bluelug.com/nitto-b356-m-s-bar-silver.html. Sure 
>>> shipping is like $46 but you gotta look at overall cost, plus there may be 
>>> other stuff you'd like. That looks like it's quite versatile to various 
>>> stem heights and lengths and won't be a wet noodle. With thumbshifters at 
>>> the top inside angled section and bar end levers you're free to find the 
>>> best position at any given time. Needless to say, I'm highly biased against 
>>> mtb levers as they're always in the way of the hands on the bars, and 
>>> what's room on a bar for but to move your hands around ? DOH ! 
>>>
>>> That's how it goes with asking for "advice" though huh, you get 
>>> everyone's wishlist thrown at you as to what to do !  Ahahahahaha !!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa6,5b8578f448f3a30004789ad8
>>> ,
>>>
>>>
>>> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa6,638a1581423463001c996236
>>> ,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b39729a1-c179-402e-b13e-3b7e10abdc43n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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