The thread title is "roadbike curious" not drop-bar curious.

I ride a Bruce Gordon Taiwan BLT with a drop bar. It's like an original Sam 
Hillborne -- basically the same geometry, and a frame that weighs 2700 
grams by itself. It's stiff to carry a load on rough roads. I've ridden it 
with road wheels and 30 mm tires and it's fast and efficient that way, but 
it's not a road bike. At least the geometry is made to work with drop or 
flat bars.

The Platypus frame is made for swept-back bars, and the stem will need to 
be comically short to get a reasonable riding position.

I'm repeating this this photo from the between-sizes thread -- it shows the 
difference between drop and swept-back bars on the same bicycle.
When you think that the top tube length changes maybe a couple cm between 
frame sizes and here the hands move forward > 10 cm to go from Northroads 
bars to drop, it's a big deal.

cheers -mathias

[image: dropvnroads.jpg]

On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 8:36:15 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Yeah thats a big haul too. New wheels, cockpit, brake setup, gearing 
> (potentially). New road focused bike is 100% the way to go. :)
>
> PS: I would feel the same way about getting a bike that would then need a 
> cockpit overhaul automatically like that. A good deal gets to be less of 
> one when you have to throw down a bunch cash on top of it to get it the way 
> you want
>
> PPS: This has inspired me to get a road frame to replace the Roadini that 
> I was unable to build up last year. Not a Rivendell but Riv adjacent.
>
> PPPS: When you keep adding postscripts should you be adding extra P's the 
> way I did it or you you at extra S's? It seems like Post, Post, makes more 
> sense than Script, Script.....if that is indeed what the S stands for. Its 
> been years since I have been in school or actually wrote a real life letter.
>
> On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 1:17:29 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Putting myself in Leah's place to answer your question, if I had her 
>> plethora of Platys I would choose a new/different bike for drop bars 
>> because it would be more interesting. Popping drops on one of my Platys 
>> with wide tires and a dynohub ain't gonna do the roadie thing for me. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 6:39:13 PM UTC-7 ttoshi wrote:
>>
>>> --What if I flip the question on its head and say could I do club riding 
>>> with my Cheviot, and what would I gain from getting a road bike?
>>>
>>> I've not ridden a Platypus, but I would assume that it would be similar 
>>> to a Cheviot.
>>>
>>> If I stripped down my Cheviot, then I am confident that I would be 
>>> perfectly fine on club rides.  I have Albastache bars, and basically use 2 
>>> positions.  My brake levers are on the curves up front and it is probably 
>>> similar to my drop bars.  I have an upright position at the end of the bar 
>>> where the bar end shifters are.  I think rides up to a century or 200k 
>>> would be fine.  I think I might prefer a drop bar for longer rides because 
>>> I have more hand positions that I use (I'm sure there are more usable 
>>> positions on the Albastache, but I don't use them...).
>>>
>>> For my drop bars, I found this site to describe various hand positions: 
>>> https://www.roadbikerider.com/dropped-bar-hand-positions/
>>>
>>> I probably use position 3 (curves of the flat front bar) for 45% of my 
>>> riding.  30% in position 7 in the drops and the other 20% in position 9 
>>> (end of drops) and 10% on the flats or in the hoods (2,5).
>>>
>>> I actually don't use the hoods too much because I set up my drop bars so 
>>> that I am most comfortable in the drops and a bit stretched out when my 
>>> hands are in the hoods.
>>> --I would definitely recommend TRP levers if you want to brake from the 
>>> drops because they are angled out to make it easy to grab when you are 
>>> braking from the drops.
>>>
>>> Aside from more hand positions with a drop bar, there would be more 
>>> responsive steering from the handlebar.  I think that if I had a bmx setup 
>>> without brake or derailleur cables, then I would be able to spin my front 
>>> wheel 360 degrees without falling on my Cheviot.  
>>>
>>> If I tried to spin my Roadeo front wheel 360 degrees, then I'm pretty 
>>> sure I'd fall flat on my face as I angled the front wheel too far to the 
>>> left or right.
>>>
>>> My Roadeo has the best handling via steering input.  This responsiveness 
>>> to steering gives me better descending capabilities when going down curvy 
>>> roads.  I wouldn't otherwise need the responsive steering if I didn't 
>>> descend hilly/mountainous roads, and would be perfectly fine going slightly 
>>> slower on my Cheviot.
>>>
>>> If I had a racing Platy/Cheviot: 1. Albastache bars to have the hand 
>>> position with the brakes up front to tuck down in the wind. 2. Supple 
>>> sidewall tires.  Yes there is a greater risk of sidewall damage, but if I 
>>> store my bike indoors (I do) and do periodic inspection of my tires (I need 
>>> to do this before big rides for sure), then I am comfortable with the risk 
>>> benefit tradeoff. The improvement in ride quality and speed was tremendous 
>>> for me. 38-42 mm is ideal for me (Hetre EL or Babyshoe pass EL or parimoto 
>>> 38 mm are tires I have used and are wonderful).  I think Jan 
>>> Heine/Compass/Rene Herse's research showed that 42 mm supple tires are no 
>>> less efficient and can be more efficient than 28 mm road tires.
>>>
>>> I wouldn't worry about the weight of the bike unless I was just hanging 
>>> on by a thread and needed to lose a pound or two to keep a margin of 
>>> comfort, or unless I were actually racing (I don't) and seconds might 
>>> really count. Besides, I know there is a certain amount of satisfaction 
>>> when a racing Platy keeps up with the carbon fiber pack!
>>>
>>> Toshi in Oakland, CA
>>>
>>>

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