I have gone back and forth in my mind over these dumb skewers.
-- I have got to have locking skewers on my touring bike because if I were to lose my dyno wheel in the middle of a trip…I don’t want to imagine it. I have to have them on my town bike because I’m moving to a metro area and I don’t want to worry about leaving it locked up in the city. And the other Platy might as well have them because the other 2 do and then I’m unlimited in what I can do with that bike. I emailed my shop to see if they just really cranked down on the skewers, thus stripping the nut. Here’s what they said: “Thru axles don't require excessive torque. Most top out at a 10nm max torque. I usually say that they should be able to be removed/installed with a small pocket multi-tool. The same theory would apply to the Hexlox, I would think. 7nm sounds like a reasonable torque. It could get overtightened, but you'd really have to lean into it. There are not very many threads in those end caps, so they see a lot of force concentrated over a small area. It sure is hard to say exactly what the main issue is, but they don't seem to be durable enough for your needs.” I emailed Hexlox and here’s what they said: “Thank you for sending the pictures. The Hexlox skewers are recommended to use max 7Nm of torque. If you are torquing it above 7Nm then there is a chance of damaging the axle or the nut. Secondly if you are using the the Steel M5 security nut as shown in the picture it is recommended to use the spring that is usually with the Quick release skewer to keep the tension. The Hexlox shield and Nut are 7075 Aluminum. That is the industry norm for the skewers. The steel nuts we have is for extreme cases.” I think the best thing is to use Pitlocks. I dread swapping all these skewers out (going to do my son’s bike, too) and learning a new system and carrying an extra key but I need things to work and be safe and I’ve got no better ideas. Leah On Jun 13, 2026, at 8:28 PM, NYCbikeguy <[email protected]> wrote:
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