you could never touch that *surface* rust and still wouldn't have issue for
at least 15 years, if at all.

that said, I just use simple rustoleum matte black paint every so often to
cover up any bare metal and then just cloth tape over the whole chainstay.
the latter is a great way of preventing any abuses and slap from adding up
too quickly.

it also looks like a splint, i've been told.

erik

On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 10:57 AM, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If you just wanted to do the bare minimum to make yourself feel better
> about the rust on your tour, and don't want to get into a crankpuller,
> then just do something to keep air and moisture off the metal.  You
> should be able to wrap the chainstay with tape (electrical tape, cloth
> handlebar tape) without taking the crank arm off.  Rust stops in the
> absence of oxygen.  Cover it up and you'll slow that way down.  Then
> deal with it properly when you get back.
>
> That said, you should know how to pull a crank arm.  It doesn't happen
> terribly often but there are roadside repairs that require a crank
> puller.  I'd recommend one like this:
>
>
> http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7
>
> That you can bring with you in your kit.  You just need to carry a 4"
> crescent wrench as well, which I always bring touring also.
>
>
>
> On May 24, 6:48 pm, Joe S <ddlttr...@verizon.net> wrote:
> > I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it.  I ride it nearly
> > every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work.
> >
> > When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front
> > derailleur was not set correctly.  It took throwing the chain off onto
> > the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what
> > was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath
> > of about 1/2 inch.  I haven't done anything to it other than to keep
> > checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in
> > rain, I can see rust on the surface.  There isn't a lot of room
> > between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm
> > thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the
> > crank.  I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank
> > puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't
> > want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new
> > and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a
> > deadline looming.  What is the best way to contain the rust?  Can it
> > be done without removing the crank (at least for now)?
> >
> > BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very
> > sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my
> > LBS.  I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride
> > after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank.  This
> > time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust.  It seems to be
> > set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy
> > triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear?  I recall
> > reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be
> > loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay
> > once set correctly?  Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution?
> >
> > Thanks for your advice.
> >
> > Joe
>
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