The previous owner of my Bleriot taped (cloth tape, of course), twined
and shellacked the chainstay.  It looks so good that I left it on.
Not sure, however, that you could extend the tape/twine forward enough
to cover your rusty area.  But it's a thought.

On May 25, 5:01 pm, erik jensen <bicyclen...@gmail.com> wrote:
> you could never touch that *surface* rust and still wouldn't have issue for
> at least 15 years, if at all.
>
> that said, I just use simple rustoleum matte black paint every so often to
> cover up any bare metal and then just cloth tape over the whole chainstay.
> the latter is a great way of preventing any abuses and slap from adding up
> too quickly.
>
> it also looks like a splint, i've been told.
>
> erik
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 10:57 AM, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > If you just wanted to do the bare minimum to make yourself feel better
> > about the rust on your tour, and don't want to get into a crankpuller,
> > then just do something to keep air and moisture off the metal.  You
> > should be able to wrap the chainstay with tape (electrical tape, cloth
> > handlebar tape) without taking the crank arm off.  Rust stops in the
> > absence of oxygen.  Cover it up and you'll slow that way down.  Then
> > deal with it properly when you get back.
>
> > That said, you should know how to pull a crank arm.  It doesn't happen
> > terribly often but there are roadside repairs that require a crank
> > puller.  I'd recommend one like this:
>
> >http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-tap...
>
> > That you can bring with you in your kit.  You just need to carry a 4"
> > crescent wrench as well, which I always bring touring also.
>
> > On May 24, 6:48 pm, Joe S <ddlttr...@verizon.net> wrote:
> > > I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it.  I ride it nearly
> > > every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work.
>
> > > When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front
> > > derailleur was not set correctly.  It took throwing the chain off onto
> > > the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what
> > > was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath
> > > of about 1/2 inch.  I haven't done anything to it other than to keep
> > > checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in
> > > rain, I can see rust on the surface.  There isn't a lot of room
> > > between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm
> > > thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the
> > > crank.  I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank
> > > puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't
> > > want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new
> > > and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a
> > > deadline looming.  What is the best way to contain the rust?  Can it
> > > be done without removing the crank (at least for now)?
>
> > > BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very
> > > sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my
> > > LBS.  I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride
> > > after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank.  This
> > > time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust.  It seems to be
> > > set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy
> > > triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear?  I recall
> > > reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be
> > > loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay
> > > once set correctly?  Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution?
>
> > > Thanks for your advice.
>
> > > Joe
>
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> --
> oakland, ca
> bikenoir.blogspot.com

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